Chickens for 10-20 years or more? Pull up a rockin' chair and lay some wisdom on us!

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Maven, I would certainly try it. Usually the highest roosting place is the one that they will fight over, hence the whole pecking order thing. They will still fuss over a certain spot but not as much as fussing over a certain height of roost. In my coop, the rooster gets the high spot and the favored hens get to be beside him, then it works on down the totem pole to the youngest, least favored. It always makes me sad to see when younger hens finally gain the favored spot next to the rooster and his old favorites get dethroned to lower roosts....but such is the way of chickens. Men!
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I am a veterinarian, and I can't think that paste horse wormer is a good choice for chickens. Each slot on the tube is marked for 250 lbs. body weight; people have poisoned their dogs on the stuff, much less a tiny chicken. I have used liquid Ivermectin, as it's much easier to control the dose, so much safer. It's an unapproved drug for poultry, so you have to be comfortable with knowing that there is no official withdrawal time for either eggs or meat. Mary
The guy who recommended this worked at a feed store and sells his eggs. Despite what he described as lifelong experience I couldn't accept his advice. I guess I do have a shred of common sense now and then.
 
Well, since the horse wormer "advice" from the feed store expert got debunked, let me address the calcium "advice". I have posted about lime several times, but this is a big place, and stuff gets lost easily in the huge nature of this forum.

When seeking an inexpensive source of calcium, do not assume all garden or ag lime is the same. It isn't. Some is Calcitic while other kinds are super loaded with phosphorus, magnesium and potassium or other things which I would not want in access. Be cautious. Read labels.
 
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I'm not raising the meal worms because I expect them to dramatically cut back on feed costs, though I'm sure they will help somewhat. I want them mainly for the protein and health benefits they will have on my chickens this winter when there aren't many insects out and about. I chose meal worms because they are dry, half-way clean, non-stinky worms that I can keep in the house in what used to be the cat corner.


Me too...I still keep them ... but I was disappointed that I don't have a good way to make LOTS of them.

I just experienced an "ah ha" moment with bugs and worms, however. I have a huge pile of wood chips from some trees we cut down last fall. It's a pretty tall hill and I haven't used them anywhere yet.

I was going to put them down as a deep mulch in a "winter run" with hopes of keeping a place that they can go out and scratch up some worms and bugs all winter. The mulch "should" keep the ground warm enough that the worms stay up, and it will give the chickens something to do in the winter (scratching and such). I haven't moved any mulch to the run yet as we are making some changes and didn't want to do it until everything is set for the winter

So.... In the meantime, I let them loose on the hill the other day. They were in CHICKEN HEAVEN...
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scratching around all the edges and having a feast as the base is full of wonderful worms, bugs and "what-have-you".

I hope it works as well in the winter run! It was really enjoyable watching them tear into that.
 
Well, since the horse wormer "advice" from the feed store expert got debunked, let me address the calcium "advice". I have posted about lime several times, but this is a big place, and stuff gets lost easily in the huge nature of this forum.

When seeking an inexpensive source of calcium, do not assume all garden or ag lime is the same. It isn't. Some is Calcitic while other kinds are super loaded with phosphorus, magnesium and potassium or other things which I would not want in access. Be cautious. Read labels.

My feed mill uses calcium carbonate (calcarb as they refer to it) and they state that it is acceptable for organic standards. It's called "bone & shell builder" I think... Anyone heard of it?
 
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