Chickens for 10-20 years or more? Pull up a rockin' chair and lay some wisdom on us!

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So Bee--I have a question about this sex-linked thing and super layers...you have stated that you have productive birds that are 4-5 years old. Sex links are made so they can tell them apart at hatching... is that all? I thought the production birds were bred to lay more eggs with less feed in a shorter time than other breeds? I thought the breeds you quote lay as many eggs over their lifetime as do production layers. The production layers just lay all their eggs in their first 2.5 years. Do you mean that yours are still as productive as that at 4 years? Or they dont lay for the winter so that is why they are still laying that many years?
I guess I am confused...I thought chickens had a set number of eggs and the production birds just shot theirs out faster?
I hope this makes sense...Terri O
 
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X2 Bee! I have so many breeds that have performed magnificently for me for up to 5, 6 yrs - and a few great hens even beyond! I have some Polish that are still laying very well in their 4th year, 2 of my 6 yr old Polish just slowed down this year, I am waiting to see if they pick up this spring or not, call it "chicken keepers curiosity", I have had great layers that were Speckled Sussex, RIR's, Leghorns, Barred Rocks, White Rocks, well into 5th yr and beyond as well.
 
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I thought the production birds were bred to lay more eggs with less feed in a shorter time than other breeds?

IME, these birds eat just as much as the next bird and lay an egg every day in peak season...and slow down in the winter just like any other bird can without supplemental lighting strategies. Just like my other breeds. The difference? My other breeds will still be following this routine..and have...for 5 years. Some of the BAs are in their 7th year and still laying every day or every other day in peak season. The sexlinks? They didn't pass my rigorous cull schedule in their second year and many of them died of heart failure in their second year, falling right off the roost in the middle of the night.

I don't supplement their lighting because I want my birds to stay in my flocks and stay productive for many years, not just two. It takes some time to cull down to the perfect flock and have the right combination of laying/hardiness/broodiness/mothering that I require in a flock of mine. A lot of people don't want that type of self-sustaining flock...they want as many eggs as they can get, as fast as they can get them. That's fine too...for them. For me? I don't have the money to replace a flock every two years, nor do I want to.​
 
YMMV...but I've not heard very many good things about their longevity. When they do last past 2 years...and I've had a few do so, they look unhealthy and raggedy, never really recovering from molts, and just don't look like the rest of my flock. I pride myself on a very good-looking, healthy in appearance flock of chickens. The sexlinks were the only birds I'd had that really crossed that line into downright ugly after their first year or so of life.
 
I love this thread!!!
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It has been rainy here and some of my Silkies (given to me as a gift waist of time birds)
seem to have very dirty undersides is this normal? I am also using the deep litter method, but have several of my birds up in the nests sleeping what should I do?
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Just culled 12 roosters from my flock! will be doing the freezer deed in am, My first time. . . any suggestions>?
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last question in the spring I plan to breed 3 different flocks they are all together now when do you recommend I seperate them now or wait till spring starts?
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built my coop all by my self,
,https://www.backyardchickens.com/forum/uploads/55165_img_0024.jpg]


Love learning from the life experience people. Thank you in advance
 
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I am also using the deep litter method, but have several of my birds up in the nests sleeping what should I do? he

Just culled 12 roosters from my flock! will be doing the freezer deed in am, My first time. . . any suggestions>? hide

I'll take a crack at a couple of these questions but I have no experience with trying to keep separate flocks for breeding purposes...there are many on this thread that do, so I'm sure they can answer those for you.

Birds in the nests: If your roosts are not higher than your nest boxes or do not have enough room for all birds to roost comfortably, you will have birds sleeping and pooping in your nesting areas. Put your roosts higher than nests, if they are not already.

If the above does not apply, I'd block off your nests at night and place all nesting birds on roosts, keep doing this...they'll get the hang of it eventually.

Twelve roosters...you'll need all your supplies in place and ready for a good start in the morning. Take your roos off the roosts tonight, tie their feet and place them somewhere safe and dark so they won't flap around and hurt themselves.

Sharpen your knives tonight...have a few to switch out for when the ones you are using get dulled. Or keep a knife sharpener right on your table...I do both things.

If you don't have a killing cone and don't have any bleach or vinegar gal. jugs handy to convert to killing cones, a feed sack or similar item will do to hold your birds while you slit the neck. No matter what you have heard about finding the blood vessels in the neck, it's quicker and easier to just slice deeply from left to right as you pull slight tension downward on the skin by holding the head in your other hand and pressing down on the beak. This allows your blade to move easily through the tissues without having to do any sawing type motions.

I'd not bother plucking these roos....they aren't really worth keeping the skin unless you just really want to have the skin. Much easier to skin...just like you would take off a jacket...first one shoulder, one leg, across the back, next shoulder, next leg. Cut off the wing tips and feet prior to skinning, of course.

I'm sure you have read up on eviscerating....it's mostly trial and error and everyone makes mistakes. Most mistakes can be rinsed away afterwards, so don't worry.
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I would absolutely 2nd the skinning the roos. I find it MUCH faster and easier than messing around with the feathers. (besides the smell of wet near boiling feathers is just too much for my stomach)

Also, it helps a lot if you have someone to help, even if it's just to bring the birds to you.

Double bag the innards and anything else you won't eat, as a ripped bag could really ruin your day. o-O

Have a hose nearby that you can use to just hose off your work area for speed and convenience

I double bag the roos and also use the heavy duty gallon size freezer bags as well.

There is a meat bird section that has LOADS of really good info.
 
A friend of mine gets 500 red stars every other year for selling eggs. He also sells my egg-stras. There have been times, when his flock has been on their second year, that he has called me, pleading for some eggs, from my flock of 50, because he's not getting any. And I really don't understand why that is, since the sex linked layers are just the hybrid produce of two good production lines of barred rocks and rhode island reds, or other good production breeds. But it does seem to be that way.
 
GREAT!!! thanks for the info!!!
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I did get them off the roost but didn't tie their feet put them in a pen!!! so that will be done first:he

What about for roasting chicken the skin makes them juicier doesn't it?
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Let the morning begin!!!
 
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