Chickens for 10-20 years or more? Pull up a rockin' chair and lay some wisdom on us!

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I've already mentioned my experience with chickens but I'll repeat. I grew up with them as a primary source for food, eggs and meat. I was the oldest boy and all that implies from a chores basis. As soon as I was old enough, I was gathering eggs, feeding, handling broodies (very little actual handling involved except checking under them for new eggs daily), and delivering plucked and gutted carcasses to Mom when she wanted one to cook. I left that when I left home at 18. I've now had them for four years, since I retired. I don't raise them exactly like we did when I was growing up. I don't have five hungry kids to feed so I don't need nearly as many chickens and my predator pressure is a lot greater here. We all have different circumstances. We have to be able to handle what we now have, not wistfully dream of how we wish things were and not become so set in our ways we can't see what is going on.

I know this is a female dominated forum, but I'm going to throw out a radical thought anyway. I don't blame the rooster for every possible problem that can happen. I hold hens responsible too.

Some feather loss from mating is not a big deal. It is really not, whether that is the back of the head or on the back. When they start bleeding, which I've found to be pretty darn rare, it is a big deal. I handle this two different ways. With the larger totally free ranging flock I grew up with that always had at least one mature rooster in it, bare backs were never a problem. With a much smaller flock that sometimes only has an adolescent rooster with it, and that may be confined while I deal with a predator, it can be more of a problem.

If several hens are showing significant feather loss, it is when I have an adolescent rooster. I use a Dremel tool and blunt his spurs (what little he usually has) and blunt his claws. I don't try to take the entire spur off or all the toenails. Just blunt them. That's always taken care of things until he grows up.

When I have one or two hens that are severely barebacked and the rest are in good shape, I eat them. I'm not going to psychoanalyze why one or two hens are severely barebacked and the rest are fine. I just eliminate the problem. This has always solved the problem for me. Other hens do not suddenly become barebacked.

I eat my chickens. Sometimes it is easy to decide which chickens to eat. Once I decide which rooster I want, all others are available for the table. But I eat the excess pullets and hens too. Sometimes which ones I eat is a pretty easy choice. Sometimes there is not a lot of difference in them. If one goes out of her way to tell me she wants to be next, I'll honor her wishes. I had one that laid real well, almost an egg a day. But for two months, that egg was laid from the roost. It was hard figuring out which one that was, but I got it right. I once had an egg eater. That was a real easy choice and one that was made quickly. If one refuses to lay in the coop, she's trying to tell me something. If one is severely barebacked, I figure she is also volunteering.

If you don't eat your chickens and you really have a problem, then you have to solve it your way. I really don't care if you use a chicken saddle or come up with a different solution. That's your business. Tale care of it your way. I'll take care of my problems my way.
 
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If you have hatchery chickens, you're not one of the cool kids.

There is the operative word.....
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Exactly!


Oddly enough, this thread has helped me be less cranky about the kids...
 
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Raising meaties is what I think seperates real chicken flock owners fron the 6 hen groupies. I try to raise 50-75 meaties a year but in the last 2 years I have just decided to raise more of my pure Cornish LF and butcher all the culls at a decent weight. When I was ordering meaties to raise for the freezer, it was important to have a plan that I could use over & over again yr after yr on the same stretch of pasture. We have very poor pasture here in SW Ok, a downside of the dust bowl of the 30's, so the grass is mainly clump & bermuda grass mixure that must be conditioned yearly to come back. This is really pretty simple after I am done for the year with raising all that I need I simply use my tractor to work in all of the leftover material that was generated from these poop machines. The grass comes back fast and strong naturaly with a nudge from me and no chemicals just some elbow grease, chicken Poo is the best fertilizer you can get. My meaties are raised in a very large heavy metal, secure tractor I can move around with my truck or tractor, when I move it once every other day to a new spot I lay in a fresh bale of wheat straw hay which still has allot of seed heads in it, I don't use a feeder, I broadcast 2 day's worth of feed using coffee can's full of feed into the tractor on top of the hay. They then scratch there way to china getting the feed, churning and chopping up all the straw and poop, I repeat this when they get moved again in 2 day's. The big spot left is a fine combination of finely mulched hay poop, dirt, leftover feed.

After they are grown and processed the entire area needs to be reconditioned for next year, so I just lightly work it in with my tractor, within a few months the grass comes back super strong with thick green durable pasture type grasses. This area is maybe only 2000sq' X 2000sq' on a level knoll, this patch can raise 2 batches of 25-50 birds a year. This let's the birds live an active life of moving around and digging and finding their food, and it works for many reasons, #1 being they stay clean. I hate the sight of a bunch of these meat birds cramped into a small confined space laying around in their own poop and being lazy and nasty looking. How unappetizing is that. When I look at this flock I want to envision wonderful meals of healthy fresh chicken raised cleanly.


Quality of the birds and the meat. Becuase they have move around so much to find their food I rarely experience and losses due to heart failure or weak legs due to uneven early growth. They get plenty of excersize and grown bone first then put on their finishing muscle, this way they grow with more vigor and quality meat. I am not one of those meaty folks who freak out over wrong growth patterns due to the flock owners failure to properly give their birds what the need not what they want. I also am not stuck to any timelines, like the traditional mantra of 6-8wks, I never process that early. they get processed when their ready and because of the way they are rasied I can get a bigger carcass weight because they are active longer, so carcass weights of 5-7lbs and 7-9lbs is the norm not the exception with the meat quality being very good to exceptional. This normally takes around 10-12 weeks with no increase in feed cost, becuase feed is administered slowly over a longer period of time, not fast hot and heavy with unhealthy weight patterns that cause losses to do slovenly feeding habits.


So in the end my meaties take a tad longer to raise to table weight with no additional cost, they are much more healthy and vigirous and the meat taste better with better texture. They are clean, fat & sassy, just exactly what you want. Anyway that is how I do mine, yeah it's simple and may take a little more thought and effort, but then again I ain't one of those lazy chicken farmers...... I don't mind a little sweat on my brow to give my family a good meal. Processing these birds will come later when we breach that sensitive topic LOL.

AL
 
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:idunno I just started reading this thread and I had to force myself to get away and work on the honeydoo.It is the best thread that I have ever read.I have been doing chickens almost 2 years now and I love raising them.I look at it like this.People are always wanting to improve something and that isn't always the best thing to do.Sometimes letting nature do it's thing(especially with animals) is the best thing for them.We have gotten into the baby,pamper everything and that isn't good.Sometimes changes are need for the best,but most of the time not.The good Lord has always provided his animals with what they need to survive.All I see that I need to do is provide them with shelter(basically that is because I took on the responsibility to take care of them)provide them food and water,and protect them.Common sense goes along way when raising animals.If you want animals to be strong and healthy you have to let their bodies and brains learn with experience,just as you do when raising the chickens.You can't pamper them young and expect them to be strong when they get older.It's called a teachable moment.I haven't been raising chickens that long but I have lived 57 years and sometimes different things in life go hand in hand.Thank you for this thread.
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Thanks Al, that was wonderful.

While I am here.....

My main Rooster, Captain has feather loss around his front neck area. Is this from fighting? I have a secondary rooster that is definitely subordinate to the Captain, but I also have a 9 mo old Brahma that might be trying his luck as he is huge. I also have a tough little Banty rooster that doesn't know he is small. I recently put all my chickens together for the winter. I may have a problem because in my last batch, now about 4 weeks, I may have a cross between my mutt hens and this Banty by the feather coloring. Anyhow, I suppose the answer is to eat these 2 roos since I haven't been able to sell them.

Also.... Al and the other old timers..... How much feed do you feed free range chickens?


I free range mine, they use about 1- 1 1/2 acres although I have 4, and I have a mix of about 40 outside right now, about 1 month from turning out 40 chicks. I feed about 2 scoops of feed in the morning then let them go.

I am also going to produce about 1000 freedom ranger meat birds from spring to fall, about 100 at a time, about 70 days each batch, and wondered how many coffee cans is good for 2 days between tractor moves?

Going to be an interesting year next year. 100 or so layers and 100-200 meaties in various stages.... I'd say I'm addicted.

Final question.... Is it good or bad my goats have decided they like sleeping in the coop. Chickens don't mind but.... they like the feed too.... guess I ought to make the chicken doors a bit smaller....

Thanks for letting me ramble....
 
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I've already mentioned my experience with chickens but I'll repeat. I grew up with them as a primary source for food, eggs and meat. We all have different circumstances. We have to be able to handle what we now have, not wistfully dream of how we wish things were and not become so set in our ways we can't see what is going on.

I know this is a female dominated forum, but I'm going to throw out a radical thought anyway. I don't blame the rooster for every possible problem that can happen. I hold hens responsible too.

Some feather loss from mating is not a big deal. It is really not, whether that is the back of the head or on the back. When they start bleeding, which I've found to be pretty darn rare, it is a big deal. I handle this two different ways. With the larger totally free ranging flock I grew up with that always had at least one mature rooster in it, bare backs were never a problem.
I'm not going to psychoanalyze why one or two hens are severely barebacked and the rest are fine. I just eliminate the problem. This has always solved the problem for me. Other hens do not suddenly become barebacked.

RR :
I think you said that very well, it more important that we just FIX !! the problem as opposed to just making ones self feel better by just talking about it incesantly. A fast, simple, common sense approach to any chicken issue allways trumps searching, analizing, rationalizing and just plain dancing around the problem. As far as a ________ dominated forum where the rooster is certainly allways the problem, I ain't touchin that with a 10' pole with this group LOL.
 
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I can't really answer that one as I cannot free range my birds, way to many nasty critters in my neck O the woods who want a free meal. So I have chosen to protect them as opposed to constant replacement, and my breeder birds are way to valuable to accept any losses. As a foot note I wish I could free range and I envy those who can and do, it sure would be nice, but alas it's not responible for me at this point, maybe someday though
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I think Bee and a few others can get you a good answer though.
 
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If it were me, I would get some chicks when the hatcheries start offering them...I think February or so they start. Grow them up as the days are getting longer. Get a few sex links (black stars, red stars, golden comets) as they will start laying really early, around 4 months. That way you'll get some eggs quickly. Then get another larger breed that will be good for self sustaining, but probably won't start laying until after the sex links. Something like Delawares or white or barred rocks. For what its worth, I ordered White rock chicks from Mt. Healthy hatchery, and they've grown into really nice good sized birds that are laying up a storm. No connection to that hatchery, just had a good experience with them.
 
Free ranging and providing feed.

This question cannot be answered. As in, there's no pat answer. Far too many variables. Quality of food available on the range, time of year, skill of birds at foraging, etc.

When foraging is at its peak here, (which isn't very lengthy given our climate) I merely "top them off" (the chicken) upon their return. Then, do they eat what I provide in 5 minutes? 10 minutes? Do they leave some? This is trial and error and merely experience. Any time there is feed in the feeder when the go to roost, it is an over feed situation. Some of us refuse to provide feed for the critters of the rodent persuasion. Others load up automatic feeders with a hundred pounds of feed and forget about it. Different management systems.
 
I free range for the most part. Its really hard to tell how much I feed. I know thats not scientific, but thats how it is. When the feed bins get low, I go get more. I think they are eating more now, because the bug population is about shot, tho there is still green grass for them to munch on. I have a flock of around 100, and now Im having to get feed around once a month; I get 500 pounds at a time. I probably should keep better track, but then again, its probably best I dont know!

Im probably feeding more unmedicated chick starter right now than usual, since Im feeding 22 white feathered pigs, but once they go in the freezer, it should get back down to a normal amount, whatever that is!
 
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