Chickens stopped laying eggs

I did notice since they started molting they haven't been interested in it.
Sure sign.
That they were eating it will make it easier to switch to an all flock type feed.

The feather fixer I gave them wasn't organic but I wanted to make sure they were getting what they needed while molting.
Feather Fixer is a bit of a marketing fallacy....not going to 'fix' anything
More to that story but.......
It's just a bit higher protein(18%) but still had higher calcium(3-4%).
 
@aart I didn't expect the feather fixer to "fix" their feathers I know molting is normal I just wanted to make sure they got proper nutrients needed to aid in the regrowth of their feathers. They have picked at and ate the calcium in the past they only been ignoring since they've molted. Again I don't want the eat them I just want them healthy. So if a flock raiser is appropriate and won't put them at risk of being over weight, I'll consider switching them. They do free range 24/7 as well.
 
Didn't realize I needed to make that clear lol. Yes they are locked up at dark in their coop and let out in the morning. I had a feeling I should have put that didn't think anyone would think I didn't have a coop. 🤔
 
I have black wyandottes that apparently decided there done for awhile as daylight hours decreased and there not even a year old not that I'm concerned as I'm getting eggs from my other pens but if you add a light they will resume laying if your that desperate for eggs
 
So if a flock raiser is appropriate and won't put them at risk of being over weight, I'll consider switching them. They do free range 24/7 as well.
So flock raiser has more protein and less calcium than layer.. but your grower idea would be FINE also.. and there is NO risk of a chicken being overweight from being offered a formulated ration..

They eat to meet their energy need.. If flock raiser is higher in protein I presume layer is higher in carbohydrates which have the same calorie count, aka energy content. Most standard chicken feed don't include calorie count the way game bird, pig, dog, and cat food are clearly labeled. I THINK the chickens also likely have a crop capacity that they fill.. so most formulated rations will probably be done so meeting key nutrient requirements within a certain capacity..

Now somehow, the calcium in layer would almost be a filler for birds not in lay.. and it should have zero calories.. in my over thinking brain. And my birds do only go though .18-.20# feed per bird per day.. as compared to the .25# stated to be average. I realized part of this difference IS made up in the oyster shell on the side.

According to my understanding.. a calorie is a calorie is a calorie and there are only 2 sources of calories protein, carbohydrates including fiber, and fat. Birds who become overweight are likely offered excess amounts of treats and possibly genetically predisposed to it. I do NOT recommend it, but mentioning.. I have fed my birds 30% protein game bird starter with ZERO issues. And according to my research, 22% protein gave the highest hatch rates.. which also says more nutrients going into the eggs my family eats.. Sure they'll still be 34% protein and 64% fat with half the protein found IN the yolk.. but the micro nutrients matter.

But no, using a higher protein, lower calcium feed (does NOT have to be flock raiser, grower is also good) will NOT make your birds overweight! Their weight does fluctuate throughout the season and they can lose as much as 30% of their body weight during molt as the reproductive system shrinks back and such.

Having harvested my share of chickens.. even being the same breed on the same feed and the same age.. they have different size fat plugs and fat placements. Different maturity rates and different personalities.. Just like my siblings and I.. But if you'd like, there's no harm in getting weights on everyone.. tracking over time, say monthly, quarterly, etc.. Even do a body condition scoring test.. but don't forget to account for breed and age differences.. younger birds are bonier and awkward and some breeds are literally double breasted. From google..
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They won't eat after dark, only freeloader will.
 
You guys have been very helpful. I hope I didn't come across as sassy or doubting. I love my chickens very much and would let them sleep in my home at night if I could lol. I just want to make sure I understand completely before making any changes to their routine. I hate to be hasty and find out it's still not right and I need to change something again. I'm going to definitly read up on flock raiser and grower feed and try to find them the perfect one. Thank you so much again.
 
I like a feed with 18% Protein.
I feed my Pullets 7 1/2 months old and Hens 28 months old a Non-medicated Starter Grower with Oyster Shells separately
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My Pullets are laying daily, my hens haven't laid since December 1st. One is finishing molt and another has started.
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I add lights at 5 am year round. GC
 

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