Chicks going in brooder and set up

Erinnlyn

Songster
Aug 21, 2022
237
379
121
Mid-Missouri
Hi,

So the chicks aren't here yet (still incubating), but of course my mind is going crazy with questions. When the chicks are hatched, and everybody is all dried off, they go in the brooder. I've read this is when you need to dip their beak in water. Is this correct? If so, when do they need a second drink of water? Do you have to repeat this until you see that they have learned to do it on their own? Do you give them vitamin/electrolite water right away, or is just plain purified drinking water ok?

Also, if you have a raised brooder warming plate with feathers around it, I assume you also need a heat lamp for when they venture out to eat and drink so they don't get cold? Any other tips for brooder set-up? My container will be a very large plastic livestock water tank. 6 eggs in the bator. I know, overkill on the size of the brooder, but they are so messy. :)
Thank you!
 
When the chicks are hatched, and everybody is all dried off, they go in the brooder. I've read this is when you need to dip their beak in water. Is this correct? If so, when do they need a second drink of water? Do you have to repeat this until you see that they have learned to do it on their own? Do you give them vitamin/electrolite water right away, or is just plain purified drinking water ok?
They don't need a drink of water for a day or so after hatching. They're still absorbing yolk into their bodies and get all they need from that. I dip their beaks on the next day, 24hrs or so, after hatch. Usually once is enough for each bird. Once one is drinking on its own, the others want to see what that's about and they'll all drink. I give them Sav-A-Chick probiotic in the water, but not electrolytes unless there's a health problem. The probiotic seems to help prevent pasty butt. I mix it with plain tap water.

Also, if you have a raised brooder warming plate with feathers around it, I assume you also need a heat lamp for when they venture out to eat and drink so they don't get cold? Any other tips for brooder set-up? My container will be a very large plastic livestock water tank. 6 eggs in the bator. I know, overkill on the size of the brooder, but they are so messy. :)
Thank you!
No, they do not need both. The brooder plate is best. They don't have to be warmed at all times; they'll seek heat when they need it, and a cool spot if they're too warm. Keeping the brooder too warm leads to health issues (like pasty butt!). We have members in here who brood their chicks outside (under shelter, of course), even when temps are in the 30's with only a brooder heat plate or a "wooly hen" setup (heating pad attached to a rounded tent-like frame) and the chicks do just fine.

For the first week, they don't need a lot of space. It's best to section off a smaller part of the brooder until they're used to their environment and heat source, and eating, drinking and pooping well. Then gradually expand the space as they grow.
 
Oh, and they may not appear to be "dried off" while still in the incubator. They look like they've used too much spiky hair gel but will be dry to touch. I worry leaving them in the incubator too long, because they climb all over the still-hatching eggs and push them in all directions. So once on they're up on their feet and moving around, I move them to the brooder under their heat source. Very soon, they'll be little fluff-balls.
 
They don't need a drink of water for a day or so after hatching. They're still absorbing yolk into their bodies and get all they need from that. I dip their beaks on the next day, 24hrs or so, after hatch. Usually once is enough for each bird. Once one is drinking on its own, the others want to see what that's about and they'll all drink. I give them Sav-A-Chick probiotic in the water, but not electrolytes unless there's a health problem. The probiotic seems to help prevent pasty butt. I mix it with plain tap water.


No, they do not need both. The brooder plate is best. They don't have to be warmed at all times; they'll seek heat when they need it, and a cool spot if they're too warm. Keeping the brooder too warm leads to health issues (like pasty butt!). We have members in here who brood their chicks outside (under shelter, of course), even when temps are in the 30's with only a brooder heat plate or a "wooly hen" setup (heating pad attached to a rounded tent-like frame) and the chicks do just fine.

For the first week, they don't need a lot of space. It's best to section off a smaller part of the brooder until they're used to their environment and heat source, and eating, drinking and pooping well. Then gradually expand the space as they grow.
Awesome, thank you for the info/tips and clarifying things!! We've bought chicks that are a few days old before, but never incubated. I think I'm just as excited as my kids are to hatch these babies!
 
Aesi
Oh, and they may not appear to be "dried off" while still in the incubator. They look like they've used too much spiky hair gel but will be dry to touch. I worry leaving them in the incubator too long, because they climb all over the still-hatching eggs and push them in all directions. So once on they're up on their feet and moving around, I move them to the brooder under their heat source. Very soon, they'll be little fluff-balls
O
Oh, and they may not appear to be "dried off" while still in the incubator. They look like they've used too much spiky hair gel but will be dry to touch. I worry leaving them in the incubator too long, because they climb all over the still-hatching eggs and push them in all directions. So once on they're up on their feet and moving around, I move them to the brooder under their heat source. Very soon, they'll be little fluff-balls.
Ok, thanks! I will surely keep a close eye on them. Hopefully my hatch timeframe will be tight:) With only 6, shouldn't be bad -providing all make it to hatch. Day 7 will be Friday and I will candle. Hopefully we get to see all of them and they're growing and wiggling!
 
If you haven't already, please read this article. It will help calm your nerves while they're trying to hatch and what to do if there are problems.
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/guide-to-assisted-hatching-for-all-poultry.72886/
Great article! I am definitely nervous. I feel like this is a bit of an experiment, but I want them all to live obviously, as we already love them. It's tough seeing all the things that can go wrong, but hopefully all the babies will hatch by the book. If not, at least I know some things to do and how to find the hands-on hatching thread. Thank you! Also, I see it says you're from Missouri too. I'm from a little bit NE of Columbia. :)
 
I've read this is when you need to dip their beak in water. Is this correct? If so, when do they need a second drink of water?
What kind of waterer are you going to use? A photo might help us give some suggestions or tips for that type of waterer.

I always dip each chick's beak in the water as it goes into the brooder. With one exception, just once has always been enough. One time a chick started giving a plaintive peep about four days after it went in the brooder. That's about when the egg yolk it absorbed at hatch is used up and it needs to eat and drink on its own. You can't miss that plaintive peep. It tears at your heart, you know something is wrong. It was just sitting there peeping. I dipped its beak in the water again and set it down. It immediately started draining the waterer. Other chicks learn when I dip their beak or learn from the others. Not that chick. When they grew up one of those hens was the dumbest chicken I've ever seen. Pretty sure it was the same chick.

Do you give them vitamin/electrolite water right away, or is just plain purified drinking water ok?
I only give mine tap water. Clean water is very important, change it at least once daily. Some people give them different things in the water. Some do that with the first water they drink and never again. Some use additives regularly. Typically I don't find it necessary. If you are getting them from the mail they sometimes arrive late or otherwise stressed. Havin a booster in their first water can really help them. I don't find that necessary with the chicks I hatch but as long as you don't overdo it those boosters won't hurt them. Nothing wrong with using them, just follow directions if you have instructions.

Sometimes I have a chick or even a grown hen that isn't doing well. I take a medicine dropper to put a drop of liquid on the beak, they swallow it so I put another drop on the beak. This gets liquid in them to help them hydrate. You can use electrolytes or other boosters. Soen people use sugar water. I use hummingbird liquid because I always some on hand. In addition to hydration this gets energy into them, trying to get them feeling good enough to eat and drink on their own.

Also, if you have a raised brooder warming plate with feathers around it, I assume you also need a heat lamp for when they venture out to eat and drink so they don't get cold?
No. If you ever see a broody hen raising her chicks in colder weather you'll understand. The chicks come out and eat, drink, and play. When they get cold they go back under the broody to warm up, then do it again. People are often amazed at how long they can be out in pretty cold weather. But they need a warm place to go so they can warm up when they need to. Your heat plate should be plenty.

Any other tips for brooder set-up? My container will be a very large plastic livestock water tank. 6 eggs in the bator. I know, overkill on the size of the brooder, but they are so messy.
There is no such thing as overkill on the size of the brooder. Undersized is an issue and they grow really fast. With only six eggs in the incubator you should be good.

Your brooder needs to stay dry. To me that is the main thing to healthy chicks. The ideal brooder has one spot that is warm enough in the coolest of temperatures and one spot cool enough in the warmest of weather. The chicks will find the temperature they need. That may surprise you.
 
What kind of waterer are you going to use? A photo might help us give some suggestions or tips for that type of waterer.

I always dip each chick's beak in the water as it goes into the brooder. With one exception, just once has always been enough. One time a chick started giving a plaintive peep about four days after it went in the brooder. That's about when the egg yolk it absorbed at hatch is used up and it needs to eat and drink on its own. You can't miss that plaintive peep. It tears at your heart, you know something is wrong. It was just sitting there peeping. I dipped its beak in the water again and set it down. It immediately started draining the waterer. Other chicks learn when I dip their beak or learn from the others. Not that chick. When they grew up one of those hens was the dumbest chicken I've ever seen. Pretty sure it was the same chick.


I only give mine tap water. Clean water is very important, change it at least once daily. Some people give them different things in the water. Some do that with the first water they drink and never again. Some use additives regularly. Typically I don't find it necessary. If you are getting them from the mail they sometimes arrive late or otherwise stressed. Havin a booster in their first water can really help them. I don't find that necessary with the chicks I hatch but as long as you don't overdo it those boosters won't hurt them. Nothing wrong with using them, just follow directions if you have instructions.

Sometimes I have a chick or even a grown hen that isn't doing well. I take a medicine dropper to put a drop of liquid on the beak, they swallow it so I put another drop on the beak. This gets liquid in them to help them hydrate. You can use electrolytes or other boosters. Soen people use sugar water. I use hummingbird liquid because I always some on hand. In addition to hydration this gets energy into them, trying to get them feeling good enough to eat and drink on their own.


No. If you ever see a broody hen raising her chicks in colder weather you'll understand. The chicks come out and eat, drink, and play. When they get cold they go back under the broody to warm up, then do it again. People are often amazed at how long they can be out in pretty cold weather. But they need a warm place to go so they can warm up when they need to. Your heat plate should be plenty.


There is no such thing as overkill on the size of the brooder. Undersized is an issue and they grow really fast. With only six eggs in the incubator you should be good.

Your brooder needs to stay dry. To me that is the main thing to healthy chicks. The ideal brooder has one spot that is warm enough in the coolest of temperatures and one spot cool enough in the warmest of weather. The chicks will find the temperature they need. That may surprise you.
Lots of good info. Thank you so much for taking the time! I will make sure I dip their beak and then keep a close eye on them. We've brought home chicks a few days old before, but this is the first time we will hatch them out. I'm going to keep them in the house until we put together a separate place for them from the adults outside, but I may utilize the brooder tent idea. Thanks!
 

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