- Thread starter
- #11
As far as the 1 chick we got, I've tried newspaper, wood shavings etc for the floor and his little leg just don't work
Chirping eggs
- Thread starter docmauney
- Start date
I got a chicken magazine last week just for the incubation story within...it had mistakes...first, they say to wash the eggs with soap and water before incubation and we know that is a no no. Then, they said "pipe" instead of pip...so I don't think the writers know what they are talking about.
I went thru about 40 eggs before I realized my mistakes...following other's incubating directions. No one person's techniques will work with your methods. Environment is huge. Genetics is huge. Here's what I say to try: go to walmart and get a $2 hand held plastic battery fan. The eggs need air circulation. If there are any plugs, take those out so the most air can move within.
I cant understand why the higher temps in incubation with still air versus forced air...temp is temp. I found 3 different very cheap hygrometers/thermometers to use since the register could vary slightly. Before setting any eggs, stabilize the temp at 99.5 to 100. I guess automatic turners are spot on, so that is a good thing. If you only have a few eggs at a time, much humidity is necessary. If the incubator is full, less is required, but still keep it at 50%. putting in wet paper towels will raise humidity because there is a lot of wet surface area. My first chick after 30 eggs had the same leg problem...it got worse the older is got, so I had to cull...I haven't had that problem since...when the chicks are born, I put them on straw that I cut really short.
This is just my 2 cents...someone will disagree, no doubt. I lost my eggs because I read and followed dry method incubation directions. It dried up all my chicks. Since I have done my own thing, I have about a 80% hatch rate now.
I went thru about 40 eggs before I realized my mistakes...following other's incubating directions. No one person's techniques will work with your methods. Environment is huge. Genetics is huge. Here's what I say to try: go to walmart and get a $2 hand held plastic battery fan. The eggs need air circulation. If there are any plugs, take those out so the most air can move within.
I cant understand why the higher temps in incubation with still air versus forced air...temp is temp. I found 3 different very cheap hygrometers/thermometers to use since the register could vary slightly. Before setting any eggs, stabilize the temp at 99.5 to 100. I guess automatic turners are spot on, so that is a good thing. If you only have a few eggs at a time, much humidity is necessary. If the incubator is full, less is required, but still keep it at 50%. putting in wet paper towels will raise humidity because there is a lot of wet surface area. My first chick after 30 eggs had the same leg problem...it got worse the older is got, so I had to cull...I haven't had that problem since...when the chicks are born, I put them on straw that I cut really short.
This is just my 2 cents...someone will disagree, no doubt. I lost my eggs because I read and followed dry method incubation directions. It dried up all my chicks. Since I have done my own thing, I have about a 80% hatch rate now.
Spongegirl, try an experiment. Get some type of reasonably tall container where air cannot get out of the top and put a heat source in that. After it has stabilized, take the temperature at different elevations. You will se why where you take the temperature is important in a still air.
When you have a gathering of people in a room, some will be warm, some will be comfortable, and some will want a sweater or light jacket, at least long sleeves. Why? People are different. Individual eggs are different too. Some want a bit more or less heat. Some want a bit more or less humidity. Your goal is to find that average where most of the eggs are reasonably happy. You cannot hit it perfectly for each and every individual egg.
Most forced air incubators bring in more outside air than still air incubators. That air coming in is almost certainly drier and cooler than the air inside the incubator. You are in trouble if that is not the case. How much drier or cooler makes a difference. The drier and cooler it is, the more moisture it is going to take to get it to a stable humidity. It draws most of that moisture from your water reservoir, but a tiny bit will come from the eggs themselves. In an incubator with more outside air coming in, you might need a tad bit higher average humidity to make up for that over the three week incubation.
How far your thermostat is from the heat source will determine how often the heater cycles to maintain a steady temperature inside the incubator, especially in a still air. It's best to have the thermostat pretty close to the heat source so you don't get such big temperature swings between cycles.
Each incubator is different, even the same make and model. Where it is in the room can make a difference. How high we are above sea level with different average air pressure can make a difference. There are a whole lot of little things that make each of us unique. Some things that work for some don't work well for others. As you said, we have to find what works best for us in our own unique situation.
When you have a gathering of people in a room, some will be warm, some will be comfortable, and some will want a sweater or light jacket, at least long sleeves. Why? People are different. Individual eggs are different too. Some want a bit more or less heat. Some want a bit more or less humidity. Your goal is to find that average where most of the eggs are reasonably happy. You cannot hit it perfectly for each and every individual egg.
Most forced air incubators bring in more outside air than still air incubators. That air coming in is almost certainly drier and cooler than the air inside the incubator. You are in trouble if that is not the case. How much drier or cooler makes a difference. The drier and cooler it is, the more moisture it is going to take to get it to a stable humidity. It draws most of that moisture from your water reservoir, but a tiny bit will come from the eggs themselves. In an incubator with more outside air coming in, you might need a tad bit higher average humidity to make up for that over the three week incubation.
How far your thermostat is from the heat source will determine how often the heater cycles to maintain a steady temperature inside the incubator, especially in a still air. It's best to have the thermostat pretty close to the heat source so you don't get such big temperature swings between cycles.
Each incubator is different, even the same make and model. Where it is in the room can make a difference. How high we are above sea level with different average air pressure can make a difference. There are a whole lot of little things that make each of us unique. Some things that work for some don't work well for others. As you said, we have to find what works best for us in our own unique situation.
- Thread starter
- #14
I think we're talking about the same mag! I think I will give the fan thing a try. You and my chicken shepherd have a very similar initial track record, so we'll see how it goes. I'm leaving for El Salvador on a medical mission trip in 5 days, so he will be here with grand parents to do his own thing. We're gonna set eggs today. Hope all goes well.
Oh nice!
well...I was thinking about the temperature thing. I have 3 thermometers...when I sat them out they read the same temperature. So I know they are accurate. Inside the incubator, placed at three different places (mines is the size of yours) there was 3 different temp readings...and mine is forced air. I was really surprised by this. At first I just used one thermometer and adjusted the temp by this one when that might have not been the right choice.
Still not getting why the different temp for forced air versus still air. I do understand the examples from above and the experiment but don't see how it is in relation to incubation of an egg. If an egg needs 99.5 to 100, then why incubate at 101 just because of less air movement?
well...I was thinking about the temperature thing. I have 3 thermometers...when I sat them out they read the same temperature. So I know they are accurate. Inside the incubator, placed at three different places (mines is the size of yours) there was 3 different temp readings...and mine is forced air. I was really surprised by this. At first I just used one thermometer and adjusted the temp by this one when that might have not been the right choice.
Still not getting why the different temp for forced air versus still air. I do understand the examples from above and the experiment but don't see how it is in relation to incubation of an egg. If an egg needs 99.5 to 100, then why incubate at 101 just because of less air movement?
Because in a still air you are taking the temperature above the egg. You are taking the temperature at the top of the egg, not in the middle of the egg. It is a lot easier to lay the thermometer on top of the eggs instead of suspending it in the middle of the eggs for most people so that's what the instructions say for you to do.
If that is not clear enough, I give up.
If that is not clear enough, I give up.
Last edited:
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