Clarification for Incubator settings

[Artistickatt]

I have set up my incubator for this first run of eggs. I have read the sticky, several articles, and half of the book that Kskingbee recommended. So I am familiar with how the temp and humidity affect the eggs. With all that said, especially with peafowl, I would like a clarification on successful temp, humidity and rotation practices when there are contradicting sources. I trust members here quite a bit over 10 years old sources.

1. I have a Nuture360 incubator. With testing it in preparation, I see how there can be up to a two degree difference between the set temp and the temp at the bed where the eggs sit (with a charting smart thermometer that I trust). When I see temps recommended they are all about the bed temp, correct? and not what you set the incubator at (in my case 101° gives me 99.8 at the bed). So adjust the temp as needed to get the right temp at the bed. I am pretty sure that is the case but I am just checking.
2. Humidity for pre and post lockdown 60/70 is mentioned, but caveats are often mentioned that if you use a separate hatcher you do the change of humidity (going up) but if in a “all in one” incubator leave it to 60%. I can’t quite discern why not to do the change of humidity for an “all in one” incubator and hatcher vs not. (this was the biggest conflicting info I saw)
3. To automatic turn or not to turn? 45° tilt and turn if manual? I have read conflicting there too.

Last, Kskingbee I think I even saw you say 100° and 45° at one point. Which I wondered if that was a typo on the humidity.

Anyone want to weigh in?

 

[Susan Skylark]

As long as your temp is stable (which you have already figured out the number one rule of hatching: never trust the built in thermometer) most everything else is personal preference. Hatching is an art, not so much a science. Do what works for you and your situation, as long as it is within the recommended parameters for your species. I’ve pushed the boundaries of incubation and its various variables, and eggs can tolerate quite a bit. As long as you are turning, it isn’t a huge deal if it is manual or automatic, 3 times or 87 times a day, or at what angle (though shipped eggs with a damaged air cell may do better upright but again it all comes down to specific situation). Humidity is also highly variable, some people swear by a dry hatch while others wonder at their success, as long as your lockdown humidity is over 60%, find what works for you and your incubator (some can be a nightmare to keep at a certain humidity, an average is just fine though the range swings from 20-80% over a day). Basically don’t over think it. You won’t kill your eggs because you forgot to turn one day or your humidity is 25% for 12 hours or your angle of incubation isn’t to somebody’s preference. Rather enjoy the process, learn as you go, be realistic with your expectations (losing eggs or dead in shell chicks is part of the process), and don’t let worry that things aren’t perfect destroy you joy in doing it. There isn’t a perfect way to incubate, rather it either works or it doesn’t, so keep that temp steady, make sure they are turned occasionally, and most of all have fun!

 

[KsKingBee]

I have six Brinsea 380 machines and each one of them is off on the temperature. I have bought a lab grade thermometer from Philadelphia Instruments for each one of them so I can set my temps at 100* adjusting some of the machines that were high and some lower to achieve a constant temperature. I place the thermometers on the middle rack so I have an average. The fans will move the warm air and make the temps nearly the same at the top and the bottom of the machine. I used to use 99.6* but found that my hatches were running late so I upped the temps so the eggs hatch a bit sooner. Now the humidity is very important with pea eggs but you will see a lot of variables in pea eggs. Some are larger and will take longer to incubate than a smaller egg. Some have thicker shells than others that cause them to hold their moisture where a thinner shell will lose its moisture easier. I have even noticed that some of the linings just inside the shell are tougher making the chick struggle more trying to zip out. Humidity will be different in different parts of the country, the SE will have much higher humidity than the SW desert. Kansas where I live will have extremes with the changing of the seasons which is why I incubate in my basement where the conditions are more stable. Determining the correct humidity for your locale is easy enough, all you need is a gram scale. Weigh a sampling of your eggs before setting them and every seven days to monitor weight loss, but the 21st day you want to see a 15% weight loss, if you do not then you want to lower the humidity for the last week. If they have lost more than 15% then increase the humidity. An egg that has not lost enough moisture will have a difficult time chipping the shell and can actually drown in the excess fluid in the shell. If you use a high humidity, 60+% the chick will have an even harder time and may be too sticky to zip. Too low of humidity and the chick will dry and stick to the shell if it is struggling to zip. So, yes, it is an art that only you can achieve in your locale with your eggs and your machine.

 

[Artistickatt]

As long as your temp is stable (which you have already figured out the number one rule of hatching: never trust the built in thermometer) most everything else is personal preference. Hatching is an art, not so much a science. … There isn’t a perfect way to incubate, rather it either works or it doesn’t, so keep that temp steady, make sure they are turned occasionally, and most of all have fun!

Thank you for your input. I definitely will take everything you said to heart. We are always telling students who are new to glass art the same thing (my day job, per se). Don’t get so wrapped up in the details that you miss the journey. I was one of those students, obsessed with not screwing up the details. My husband look at me last night and said “Hun, this is not a kiln” referring to the time, temp, ramp rates, and hold times of fused glass projects. I get wrapped up in those details and I didn’t realize the incubator fell into that wheelhouse instinctively.

I have six Brinsea 380 machines and each one of them is off on the temperature. I have bought a lab grade thermometer from Philadelphia Instruments for each one of them so I can set my temps at 100* adjusting some of the machines that were high and some lower to achieve a constant temperature. I place the thermometers on the middle rack so I have an average. The fans will move the warm air and make the temps nearly the same at the top and the bottom of the machine. I used to use 99.6* but found that my hatches were running late so I upped the temps so the eggs hatch a bit sooner. Now the humidity is very important with pea eggs but you will see a lot of variables in pea eggs. Some are larger and will take longer to incubate than a smaller egg. Some have thicker shells than others that cause them to hold their moisture where a thinner shell will lose its moisture easier. I have even noticed that some of the linings just inside the shell are tougher making the chick struggle more trying to zip out. Humidity will be different in different parts of the country, the SE will have much higher humidity than the SW desert. Kansas where I live will have extremes with the changing of the seasons which is why I incubate in my basement where the conditions are more stable. Determining the correct humidity for your locale is easy enough, all you need is a gram scale. Weigh a sampling of your eggs before setting them and every seven days to monitor weight loss, but the 21st day you want to see a 15% weight loss, if you do not then you want to lower the humidity for the last week. If they have lost more than 15% then increase the humidity. An egg that has not lost enough moisture will have a difficult time chipping the shell and can actually drown in the excess fluid in the shell. If you use a high humidity, 60+% the chick will have an even harder time and may be too sticky to zip. Too low of humidity and the chick will dry and stick to the shell if it is struggling to zip. So, yes, it is an art that only you can achieve in your locale with your eggs and your machine.

Thank you for this insight! It was exactly what I was hoping for. And it makes sense to me now why you might use two separate incubators. You make the decision to treat the hatch differently based on the last weighing in, or size. Got it!! In your examples was the missing info I had not read, and real world examples of how to apply temp/humidity changes and puts me much more at ease. My IBBS eggs are MUCH bigger than my pied eggs. As the month goes I can make some judgement calls (as I have access to another incubator if I need to split the group at the time of lockdown with different humidity levels.

What is the verdict on auto turning or manual with peas?

In the end, I just want to do that best job at this process because these are little lives in my hands.

 

[KsKingBee]

Page 168. The most important part is that the blunt end of the egg must always be higher than the pointed end. A hen will turn her eggs about every four hours. If you intend to turn manually then at least three times per day or any odd number so they don't sit on the same side all night every night. The reason to turn is to keep the yolk centered in the egg so it doesn't stick to one side killing the embryo. A mechanical turner will rock the eggs side to side for a full 90*. Some will turn continuously, or if you can program your turner, once every 90 minutes is really all you need.

 

[Artistickatt]

Page 168. The most important part is that the blunt end of the egg must always be higher than the pointed end. A hen will turn her eggs about every four hours. If you intend to turn manually then at least three times per day or any odd number so they don't sit on the same side all night every night. The reason to turn is to keep the yolk centered in the egg so it doesn't stick to one side killing the embryo. A mechanical turner will rock the eggs side to side for a full 90*. Some will turn continuously, or if you can program your turner, once every 90 minutes is really all you need.

Yep, I read that but I was not sure how much overlap there was between peafowl and chickens in the minute details. My incubator turns them continuously for 5 seconds (about a quarter turn) every hour and only one direction (on or off). When you bounce that against the mother hen schedule, that is a BIG difference. I don’t mind turning them manually three times a day, but it definitely screws with the stable temp :-/