Clean out door for the chicken run - how big?

[Chad Oftedal]

My chicken run is going to be "L" shaped where it wraps around two sides of my 8x8 walk-in coop. On one end, I'm going to put in a gate/door where I can enter the run. I will use this entrance for both daily entrance, and when I need to do clean up (i.e. run a wheel barrow in and out, etc). I plan to do the deep litter method, and the run will be covered. The height of the run is 78" because my roll of hardware cloth is 75" high, and being 73" tall myself, it works out great!

The setup is that I have 2 4x4 posts cemented into the ground. The outside dimension for these two posts is 67". The inside dimension is 60". So, I have 60" in which to utilize for the gate. My plan, since the whole run is pressure treated framing covered in hardware cloth, was to make a door covered in hardware cloth. If I just did a simple design that maximized space, I came up with a door that was 53" across. I'm worried that is too big, and I'd need some pretty beefy hinges to keep from sagging.

Any ideas on a size that has worked well for you? I kind of feel like I could make any size given that I have up to 60" to work with. I'm just curious what others have found to be big enough for their cleaning needs, but yet structurally sound so that they didn't have sag issues.

 

[Chad Oftedal]

OK, finally finished the run (minus the roof) and so the door is in place.

 

[jthornton]

For a wheelbarrow door I'd go at least a foot wider than your wheelbarrow. I don't see anything wrong with a 53" door if you brace it enough and put enough hinges.

This is my door to the run, I used 3 regular door hinges I had laying about. Notice the bracing I added to hold it all together. I should have put a kick board inside to contain the chips... maybe one day.


JT

 

[blackdog043]

My door is 39" wide, wheel barrel is 26" wide. I used 2 regular door hinges I had laying around and braced the corners, no sagging going on.

 

[Chad Oftedal]

Hello, all!

I just wanted to post a quick update. Thanks for all the suggestions that came in!

Here is a picture of the BACK of my gate. I ended up doing the split door design. The orientation here in the photo is a little confusing. The top of the gate is at the bottom edge of the foreground. Imagine reaching down by your feet, picking the gate up, and standing it upright.



So, the left door is going to be the stationary door. It is 28" wide, and will probably be kept in place with a cane bolt into the ground on the inside of the run. The right door is 32" wide and will be the main in-and-out door that I use on a daily basis.

The construction details: I used my Kreg HD pocket hole jig (designed to join 2x4's) on all the framing connections for the doors and the outermost frame. I reinforced the joints with the Simpson strong ties that you can see in the picture. I mainly added the strong ties because the pressure treated wood is still "wet" and considerably heavier than what it will be when dried out. I thought the braces will help carry some extra support while the wood dries, and even after that, will just be nice for the extra support. I'm sure it's more than what is needed, but fence building is something that I have learned to love to do once! For the front (which I'll upload a picture later when it is installed on the run) I used 6 galvanized heavy duty hinges (3 per door) and a heavy duty swinging latch/bar style lock that has holes drilled for a security padlock. The wire mesh is galvanized 1/2"x1" wire that was stapled into the 2x4s with 1 1/2" stainless steel narrow crown staples. I then sandwiched it with 1x4. It took an afternoon to put it together, and I found some time yesterday to put the latch on. Everything swings really nice and I'm anxious to put it to use. The suggestions and pictures that people shared were very helpful.

I'm on my last panel for my run (7 have now been built out of 8 total) and as soon as I get this final panel built, I'm going to start fastening them to the posts and get the run enclosure completed, and then the roof of the run started.

 

[imnukensc]

Standard/Stock door sizes (width) are 30, 32, and 36 inches. I'd go with 36."

 

[sylviethecochin]

Large as you can go, because if you''re swinging a shovel around, it helps to be able to move it. If you're having sagging problems, you might think about setting up a doorframe.

 

[ewerbos]

I am just about to make a door for our run, and I was planning on making it about 6' total, but was thinking of making it into two doors. The left part will have the static part of the gate latch and two sliding latches on the inside at the top and bottom to keep it in place most of the time (to be opened only for large moving), and the right will have the moving part of the gate latch and will be what we typically use. I'm sure it's possible to make a large door, but I think I would find it annoying to open all the time.

 

[jreardon1918]

My main run is 8x8. Plus 4x8 under the coop. The door frame is 48" x 6'. It fits wheel barrow.

 

[Chad Oftedal]

I am just about to make a door for our run, and I was planning on making it about 6' total, but was thinking of making it into two doors. The left part will have the static part of the gate latch and two sliding latches on the inside at the top and bottom to keep it in place most of the time (to be opened only for large moving), and the right will have the moving part of the gate latch and will be what we typically use. I'm sure it's possible to make a large door, but I think I would find it annoying to open all the time.

Hmmm. This is a really good thought!