Clearance under coop for run?

[Maggie13]

I had to laugh when I read your first statement I too was a lurker for years before I joined Welcome to the forum!
A lot of people here that are more knowledgeable than me but when I designed and built our Chicken tractor in 2012 I gave them 15" of head room under the coop.
They seem to be happy with that height! Of course the only time they really use the tractor run is when there is snow on the ground.They do not like snow at all so spend the winter in the run otherwise they free range all day and head back to the coop in late afternoon.

 

[DavidReaves]

I'm not sure if this is the answer you're looking for, but I'll put my two cents in - we have an under coop run about 18 inches high and it is a nightmare. Our hens and ducks often go under there and won't come out when it's time to lock them up at night. This is a headache and, as a result, I don't think I will even buy or build a coop that the birds can hang out under again.

That said, I guess the fact that they go way under and won't come out means they like it under there but, where we live, it isn't really safe to leave hens in a run over night, they need to be locked in the coop to avoid predators so I have spent numerous evenings on my hands and knees, trying to coax someone out with a long stick in order to lock them up.

Your response is helpful, but the space under the coop is a significant portion of the run. I'm building small, for only 4 (or 5-- chicken math) chickens. and the space under the coop is about 1/3 of the space. I do have a "door" planned under the coop to mitigate some of the problems you describe, but I understand having that space may be more trouble. Since it's going to be mobile, I can roll it forward a few feet if necessary. That would encourage reluctant hens to move along!

 

[kimberjay]

I have a raised coop (18 inches) and I don't like it. We are planning to build a new coop next spring. My coop is 8x8 so I can't reach under all the way to clean it due to having chicken wire around two sides. I have back and knee issues that make it more difficult for me to keep it clean. A couple of days ago one of my girls died under the coop. It was very difficult to get her out. I'm going with a ground level dirt floor coop next time.

There are pros to a raised coop though. They have a relatively dry space to be outside during our Florida storms. My run is partly covered but it still gets very wet since it has no solid walls. Collecting eggs is easier since I don't have to bend over.

If you do a raised coop just make sure you can get under it easily too. Best of luck and happy chicken tending

 

[DavidReaves]

A lot of people here that are more knowledgeable than me but when I designed and built our Chicken tractor in 2012 I gave them 15" of head room under the coop.

If the photo on your profile is your tractor, I'm using the same bottom frame style for mine. This is the first sketch-- some dimensions changed as I drew up more detailed plans for each section.

Edited: I forgot I'd already posted this image... I'm reading so many chicken posts I can't remember what I've done!

 

[goldenyears]

Thanks to all for the replies. I tend to be obsessive once I start a project-- since 11:30 last night I've come up with a sketch for a mobile coop & run (tractor). I'll only keep 4-5 hens, since about 18 eggs a week is my target. (I'm estimating 5 eggs per hen a week.)

This sketch is shown with a 2' clearance under. From what everyone has said, I could get by with 18-24". There won't be litter under the coop, since it will be moved around. I may keep it at 24", since I don't want it to be too low to reach in when I need to.

Also, it will be completely roofed, for weather and sun protection (as well as Avian Flu). It gets HOT in north Texas! This would have 16 sf coop, with 44 sf yard. I might make it longer, but that could become unwieldy. Three 12" x 15" nest boxes will hang on the back (bottom hinges for those, so no leaky roof). Lots more design to go through though. I still have a few days... since I'm not starting the eggs until the Saturday before Easter. That means I have 9-10 weeks to get this done.

I'll post progress on this over on the chicken tractors forum.

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I have 20” underneath my coops. Even the Bielefelder Roos have plenty of headroom. One of the sides is hinged in the event I need to do rescue work. (The store bought gray coop next to coop two is for broody hens). Connected to the coop is a covered walk-in run with an attached brooder.

 

[goldenyears]

Thanks! The reason I'm thinking of 3 boxes is I may want to let a hen raise a clutch of eggs. If I do that, then I still have a nestbox +1 for the other hens. The change in materials probably won't be significant-- unless the extra box pushes me to an extra sheet of plywood.

I want to have the ability to close the coop for a little extra security. Also, I'm on a lake shore, so wind can be strong, and it is variable. Having four sides make it easier to deal with that.

Finally, I definitely agree with the need for shade on the sides. I'm not sure how I'll do that yet.

For shade, you could use opaque pvc/plastic corrugated panels. Lightweight, durable and easy to work with.

 

[DavidReaves]

For shade, you could use opaque pvc/plastic corrugated panels. Lightweight, durable and easy to work with.

Yes, thanks. I bought white polycarbonate panels yesterday. They will offer protection from the direct sun, UV, predators, and failing acorns! (No Chicken Little for me!). They will still transmit some light, though, so it won't be as dark as corrugated steel would be.

 

[goldenyears]

Yes, thanks. I bought white polycarbonate panels yesterday. They will offer protection from the direct sun, UV, predators, and failing acorns! (No Chicken Little for me!). They will still transmit some light, though, so it won't be as dark as corrugated steel would be.

Sounds like you are on your way to chicken ownership and the dreaded chicken math! I wanted four and now, including hatchlings, am over . Enjoy your adventure.

 

[Maggie13]

Here is a link to our chicken tractor build

https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/small-chicken-tractor.1103918/

 

[GrammaMickyMouse]

I'm new to the BYC forums, though I've been lurking as a non-registered user for years.

So, I've searched messages for a couple of hours, and found lots of interesting things on coop dimensions, ventilation, etc. The one thing I haven't found this: How much headspace is desirable under the coop when building an attached run to a coop? This is for full-size, but not giant breed chickens. The space under the coop might as well be included in the outdoor run, especially since I'm thinking about a mobile run/"tractor". The closer to the ground the coop is means more head space in the enclosed coop above. Is 15 inches enough? Or 18 inches? I'm assuming that 12" would not be enough clearance. Is that true? Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

David

We have a 24" Space under our Chicken House (which is Permanent). The HOuse is within a Run that is 24' x 10' wide. It is working wonderfully....except....our Chickens have Laid their Eggs under it...and now my only Goose is choosing to lay there as well. They have a Lovely set of Laying Boxes inside the House (and mostly the Chickens lay in there now)...but our Goose prefers "under". Your purpose "Chickshaw" type or "Mobile" Coop is Great & 24" would probably be perfect. I got the Idea from the Chicken Keepers up in the North East, where Hawks & Eagles are quite common....they give Cover when needed. Good Luck