Clearance under coop for run?

[SeaCity]

I'm new to the BYC forums, though I've been lurking as a non-registered user for years.

So, I've searched messages for a couple of hours, and found lots of interesting things on coop dimensions, ventilation, etc. The one thing I haven't found this: How much headspace is desirable under the coop when building an attached run to a coop? This is for full-size, but not giant breed chickens. The space under the coop might as well be included in the outdoor run, especially since I'm thinking about a mobile run/"tractor". The closer to the ground the coop is means more head space in the enclosed coop above. Is 15 inches enough? Or 18 inches? I'm assuming that 12" would not be enough clearance. Is that true? Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

David

My coop floor is 3 feet off the ground & the girls love hanging out in that space.

 

[DavidReaves]

Thanks to all for the replies. I tend to be obsessive once I start a project-- since 11:30 last night I've come up with a sketch for a mobile coop & run (tractor). I'll only keep 4-5 hens, since about 18 eggs a week is my target. (I'm estimating 5 eggs per hen a week.)

This sketch is shown with a 2' clearance under. From what everyone has said, I could get by with 18-24". There won't be litter under the coop, since it will be moved around. I may keep it at 24", since I don't want it to be too low to reach in when I need to.

Also, it will be completely roofed, for weather and sun protection (as well as Avian Flu). It gets HOT in north Texas! This would have 16 sf coop, with 44 sf yard. I might make it longer, but that could become unwieldy. Three 12" x 15" nest boxes will hang on the back (bottom hinges for those, so no leaky roof). Lots more design to go through though. I still have a few days... since I'm not starting the eggs until the Saturday before Easter. That means I have 9-10 weeks to get this done.

I'll post progress on this over on the chicken tractors forum.

 

[3KillerBs]

I am a fan of raised coops. I live in the country with 4 months+ of Canadian winters. I do not free range for both pest and predator protection. My run is 200 square feet, raising the coop almost doubles their quality of life.

4 steps to a square stoop, walk in coop (160 sqft) is raised 3'+ for access purposes.

Climate matters!

Thanks to all for the replies. I tend to be obsessive once I start a project-- since 11:30 last night I've come up with a sketch for a mobile coop & run (tractor). I'll only keep 4-5 hens, since about 18 eggs a week is my target. (I'm estimating 5 eggs per hen a week.)

This sketch is shown with a 2' clearance under. From what everyone has said, I could get by with 18-24". There won't be litter under the coop, since it will be moved around. I may keep it at 24", since I don't want it to be too low to reach in when I need to.

Also, it will be completely roofed, for weather and sun protection (as well as Avian Flu). It gets HOT in north Texas! This would have 16 sf coop, with 44 sf yard. I might make it longer, but that could become unwieldy. Three 12" x 15" nest boxes will hang on the back (bottom hinges for those, so no leaky roof). Lots more design to go through though. I still have a few days... since I'm not starting the eggs until the Saturday before Easter. That means I have 9-10 weeks to get this done.

I'll post progress on this over on the chicken tractors forum.

View attachment 3049460

Two thoughts:

First, 5 hens only need, in theory, 1 nest -- though I'd always give them 2 so they have a choice. With lumber prices as they are right now, 3 is money in materials that you don't need to spend.

Second, In Texas heat consider an Open Air design -- just a roofed wire box with no enclosed coop at all, just a 3-sized shelter at the windward end.

OK, 3 things -- GENEROUS roof overhangs or even fabric awnings for maximum shade. With a narrow design it's easy to end up with low afternoon sun leaving the chickens with no place whatsoever to escape the sun.

 

[Battlepants]

I would say measure the height of your wheelbarrow and go with that. This will allow you to park the thing right under the coop and scrap out the bedding through the service door. Makes cleanup quite easy.

 

[DavidReaves]

Climate matters!



Two thoughts:

First, 5 hens only need, in theory, 1 nest -- though I'd always give them 2 so they have a choice. With lumber prices as they are right now, 3 is money in materials that you don't need to spend.

Second, In Texas heat consider an Open Air design -- just a roofed wire box with no enclosed coop at all, just a 3-sized shelter at the windward end.

OK, 3 things -- GENEROUS roof overhangs or even fabric awnings for maximum shade. With a narrow design it's easy to end up with low afternoon sun leaving the chickens with no place whatsoever to escape the sun.

Thanks! The reason I'm thinking of 3 boxes is I may want to let a hen raise a clutch of eggs. If I do that, then I still have a nestbox +1 for the other hens. The change in materials probably won't be significant-- unless the extra box pushes me to an extra sheet of plywood.

I want to have the ability to close the coop for a little extra security. Also, I'm on a lake shore, so wind can be strong, and it is variable. Having four sides make it easier to deal with that.

Finally, I definitely agree with the need for shade on the sides. I'm not sure how I'll do that yet.

 

[U_Stormcrow]

My raised coop is 8x12 and can't be moved, so I structured the floor into a "U" shape, allowing me to walk into it with a rake, whatever, with the floor extending 4' in front and 4' to each side of me. Its 3' off the ground - plenty of room for my ducks (the reason I built the hen house off the ground) to nest and wander about, tall enough I could roll the wheelbarrow in, and tall enough I could get the rake or a shovel to the edges without needing to crouch (except the furthest corners - mistake on my part).

A your coop is moveable, you don't have the same considerations, and don't need the same height. Somewhere in the 2' range is plenty of height for any standard bird to wander thru, big enough you can slip a storage tote or similar underneath if you find yourself using part of it for space, and to get under it w/o too much trouble if you find yourself not moving the coop frequently - because inevitably, one of your birds will get ill, and decide to stay there, or will start a nest there, or otherwise find some use for the space which you did not intend.

 

[DavidReaves]

I would say measure the height of your wheelbarrow and go with that. This will allow you to park the thing right under the coop and scrap out the bedding through the service door. Makes cleanup quite easy.

I was originally thinking of doing a pull-out litter tray, but you may be right. It might be easier just to scrape litter out the open side with a hoe. That would reduce the complexity, especially since I'm planning on side access anyway.

 

[Acre4Me]

GENEROUS roof overhangs or even fabric awnings for maximum shade. With a narrow design it's easy to end up with low afternoon sun leaving the chickens with no place whatsoever to escape the sun.

I was thinking this exact thing! With a mobile coop. you can possibly make "flaps" that fold down for the move to new spot, but when placed they can be opened up, and propped. Due to wind, they need to be secured somehow. But SHADE is very important.

I would say measure the height of your wheelbarrow and go with that. This will allow you to park the thing right under the coop and scrap out the bedding through the service door. Makes cleanup quite easy.

We did this with our elevated coop, and it is very helpful to be able to bring the wheelbarrow in close proximity for cleaning.

 

[Acre4Me]

pull-out litter tray,

a piece that is another opening, more wood, more weight, and possibly allows a predator a foothold in. If stuff gets into the sliding part, then its another area to clean.

 

[Acre4Me]

Thanks to all for the replies. I tend to be obsessive once I start a project-- since 11:30 last night I've come up with a sketch for a mobile coop & run (tractor). I'll only keep 4-5 hens, since about 18 eggs a week is my target. (I'm estimating 5 eggs per hen a week.)

This sketch is shown with a 2' clearance under. From what everyone has said, I could get by with 18-24". There won't be litter under the coop, since it will be moved around. I may keep it at 24", since I don't want it to be too low to reach in when I need to.

Also, it will be completely roofed, for weather and sun protection (as well as Avian Flu). It gets HOT in north Texas! This would have 16 sf coop, with 44 sf yard. I might make it longer, but that could become unwieldy. Three 12" x 15" nest boxes will hang on the back (bottom hinges for those, so no leaky roof). Lots more design to go through though. I still have a few days... since I'm not starting the eggs until the Saturday before Easter. That means I have 9-10 weeks to get this done.

I'll post progress on this over on the chicken tractors forum.

View attachment 3049460

Nice plan so far!