Coccidis or something else?

[Kaittrahan]

Needing advice on my young Speckled Sussex. About a week and a half ago I noticed he and another chick were acting sickly. Still eating and drinking but very slow moving, droopy eyes and very sleepy. Put electrolytes and probiotics in the water and put terramycin in the eyes. Other chick made full recovery after a few days but this one got worse.


A week ago he had the full on puffy cocci stance and potentially blood in poop?( But i think intestinal lining and not blood), but to be safe I switched to corrid in the water and we are on day 7 of corrid and while he isn't in the puffy stance anymore... he's still not holding wings up, and walking more stumble-y, and comb is very pale. Eating and drinking and alert as normal though. He is choosing to lay against the heater a lot when he's not eating/drinking.


Say all this to say, could it be something different then cocci? Should I continue corrid or do something differently? He's my favorite little dude so i want to make sure im doing all I can for him


First 2 pics are from now, other 2 pics from a week ago when I started corrid.

 

[BirdWrangler]

@Eggcessive @Wyorp Rock @azygous

 

[BirdWrangler]

It does look like coccidiosis to me, but I’m not 100% sure. Is his bedding dirty or damp? That can cause it

 

[Kaittrahan]

No we clean pretty regularly, that was just under the roost where they all slept that night lol

Would he still be off like he has been a week later? Continue corrid?

 

[BirdWrangler]

I usually keep mine on corid for 2 weeks

 

[StinkyAcres]

Are they getting any vitamin supplements while on Corid?

 

[Kaittrahan]

Are they getting any vitamin supplements while on Corid?

No I read not to add anything else so it's been strictly corrid

 

[azygous]

It certainly could be coccidiosis. The color of some of the lining seems awfully red not to have some blood present. Are you treating with Corid at a proportion of two teaspoons per gallon of water with no added vitamins? The treatment is for five days, then a week off when vitamins can be given again, then another five days on Corid without vitamins again.

There may also be worms, though usually such young chicks haven't had time yet to develop much of a worm load as to be problematic. It wouldn't hurt to treat for worms in addition to the Corid. Both safely can be done concurrently.

 

[Kaittrahan]

It certainly could be coccidiosis. The color of some of the lining seems awfully red not to have some blood present. Are you treating with Corid at a proportion of two teaspoons per gallon of water with no added vitamins? The treatment is for five days, then a week off when vitamins can be given again, then another five days on Corid without vitamins again.

There may also be worms, though usually such young chicks haven't had time yet to develop much of a worm load as to be problematic. It wouldn't hurt to treat for worms in addition to the Corid. Both safely can be done concurrently.

I'm not familiar with worm treatment. What do I do for that?
And I've done 7 days with 2 teaspoons per gallon, so would I switch the vitamins at this point?

 

[azygous]

B-1 is the only vitamin that is crucial. It's a good idea to replenish that after each round of Corid. B-1(thiamine) is what coccidia thrive on and Corid blocks its absorption.

Safeguard (horses and goats) is a good wormer as it's gentle. It's what I'd recommend for young chicks.
If you are using Safeguard the dose is .23 ml per pound of bird weight, two doses 10 days apart for roundworm. (For some other types of worms other than roundworm you would do that dose 5 days in a row). If using Valbazen the dose is .5 ml for a 6 lb bird, two doses 10 days apart. The math for dosing Valbazen is "weight in lbs / 2.2 X 20mg / 113.6". That will treat everything except tapeworm.
Roundworm in particular is really easy to pick up in the environment and reinfection is common.