Colorado

Wow, this thread is moving right along!

Pozee, love the little ones, they will be fine in the tubs for awhile, under th house is a gret idea! Will GreatHorse have eggs the beginning of next week? I am going to mapquest how far I am to Berthod (sp)?????
He said he needs a few days' notice to collect them, he's getting around 10 a day, so for example if I tell him today we want 40 eggs, he should be able to sell us 40 by the end of the week, like Thursday or Friday. He also said he's about 40 miles North of Denver. It has been such a long time since I was North of Denver I couldn't remember how far it was either, that's why I asked :) If we only want 20 he may be able to gather that many by Monday or Tuesday. I would like 10 myself right now, and then if they hatch as nice as I think they will I'll probably go back for more later in the spring.

I am about to set some Blue/Black Sumatra and Salmon Faverolle eggs tomorrow morning, I'll have 14 spots left in the turner so could actually buy 14 and fill it. If you decide you want to drive up there let me know, I can send you money for my eggs plus gas money, and meet you somewhere to pick them up from you. I am not worried about setting the additional eggs a few days later, in fact it might make hatching a little simpler.
 
What you will find is that when you go to check on them, if they are too cold they will be all piled up together right under the light.  If they are too warm they will be spread at the perimeter or completely outside of the heat, or as far as they can get from it.  Brooders work best when there is a warm spot and a cool spot, so they can get away from the heat if they are too warm.  Do you have a thermometer down on the bottom of the brooder so you can check on how warm it is?  Usually after the first couple of days you can tell without it whether they are comfortable and adjust the light accordingly (raise or lower it).


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i usually have 2 themometers. one in the hot spot and one in the coolest spot. that way when the start trying to get away from the heat, i know what the hot spot needs to be changed to. example: when the hot spot is 100, and the cold spot is 70 and they start sleeping in the middle, i can back the hot spot off to about 80-85 . ive found they wean from the heat significantly faster this way than following the heat reducing methods in all the books.
 
He said he needs a few days' notice to collect them, he's getting around 10 a day, so for example if I tell him today we want 40 eggs, he should be able to sell us 40 by the end of the week, like Thursday or Friday. He also said he's about 40 miles North of Denver. It has been such a long time since I was North of Denver I couldn't remember how far it was either, that's why I asked :) If we only want 20 he may be able to gather that many by Monday or Tuesday. I would like 10 myself right now, and then if they hatch as nice as I think they will I'll probably go back for more later in the spring.

I am about to set some Blue/Black Sumatra and Salmon Faverolle eggs tomorrow morning, I'll have 14 spots left in the turner so could actually buy 14 and fill it. If you decide you want to drive up there let me know, I can send you money for my eggs plus gas money, and meet you somewhere to pick them up from you. I am not worried about setting the additional eggs a few days later, in fact it might make hatching a little simpler.
I live in Berthoud and its about 50 minutes for town to DIA (using E-470). It's not a bad drive either. You'll get a great view of Long's Peak as you pass Longmont.
 
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i usually have 2 themometers. one in the hot spot and one in the coolest spot. that way when the start trying to get away from the heat, i know what the hot spot needs to be changed to. example: when the hot spot is 100, and the cold spot is 70 and they start sleeping in the middle, i can back the hot spot off to about 80-85 . ive found they wean from the heat significantly faster this way than following the heat reducing methods in all the books.
I have one in the hotspot and a wireless one (With alarms
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) in the cool spot.I put a diaper box with a hole cut in it for a shaded nest type box. It's about 75* in there, while it's about 94* under the lamp.
Just nervous leaving a light on while no one's home and cookin the little girls. 1st time flock\chicks jitters
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i usually have 2 themometers. one in the hot spot and one in the coolest spot. that way when the start trying to get away from the heat, i know what the hot spot needs to be changed to. example: when the hot spot is 100, and the cold spot is 70 and they start sleeping in the middle, i can back the hot spot off to about 80-85 . ive found they wean from the heat significantly faster this way than following the heat reducing methods in all the books.

I like that idea!
 
So, yesterday I looked in the coop and noticed a half of an egg, which tells me, someone is eating them.....
What do you all recommend, do I get rid of them all and start over, or is there anyway to find out who's doing it? Luckily, we only have 4 chickens and a turkey, so starting over is not a huge loss. Would explain why we haven't gotten eggs in 2 months, and I thought it was from the cold........
 
So, yesterday I looked in the coop and noticed a half of an egg, which tells me, someone is eating them.....
What do you all recommend, do I get rid of them all and start over, or is there anyway to find out who's doing it? Luckily, we only have 4 chickens and a turkey, so starting over is not a huge loss. Would explain why we haven't gotten eggs in 2 months, and I thought it was from the cold........
Hummmm... Just a thought, but maybe try finding a moment (or hour) this weekend and put an egg in the run. Then just sit back and watch from a small distance. I would think the culprit would show themselves...
 
So, yesterday I looked in the coop and noticed a half of an egg, which tells me, someone is eating them.....
What do you all recommend, do I get rid of them all and start over, or is there anyway to find out who's doing it? Luckily, we only have 4 chickens and a turkey, so starting over is not a huge loss. Would explain why we haven't gotten eggs in 2 months, and I thought it was from the cold........

It might be telling you they need more calcium or protein. How old are they and what breed(s) again? If they are near/in molt they probably need protein. Feathers are protein. You can try increasing protein in feed either with a change in what you are giving, supplements (meal worms maybe), or try fermenting their feed, which increases the bioavailability of the protein in their food. Fermenting is a pretty easy process once you work it out for yourself. I use layer crumble and home mixed scratch, put it in a bowl/bucket with water and a splash of unpasteurized apple cider vinegar, stir once or twice a day, in about 3 days you will have fermentation (bubbles, sour-ish fermenty odor, sometimes a white film on top) - you can even feed it just soaked the first day or two while the rest of the mix ferments.

If it's calcium offer free choice oyster shell, yogurt, etc.

If you already do all this and they are 2012 hens not in or near molt, it may be time to start over.
 

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