Where the heck do you find those?!I buy milk in glass bottles now,
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Where the heck do you find those?!I buy milk in glass bottles now,
Schwann's still delivers to your door, but very expensive.Where the heck do you find those?!
There are two fairly local dairies that use them. One is organic the other isn’t but is Kosher, has Jersey cows and doesn’t homogenize. I buy the Jersey milk.Where the heck do you find those?!
I admit I hadn't thought about running the ends of the CP down along the fence wall for several squares. I probably would have gone for 1 square down. I see yours are 4 squares down. I am understanding that you think you need to raise it to less squares to make it more bowed, therefore stronger against snow load. Am I right so far? If so my question, if you have a number in mind, is how many squares do you think would improve your set up?
ROTFLOL for real!I was going to try raising it one on each side or even one on the "flatter" looking side & leaving it. Not using a level or square, just eyeballing. But pretty sure, even for here, that this is currently too flat. Also, it explains why (ROFLOL, right now) it was so hard to put it against the top bar when Skye and I were holding it. Her husband, Justin, never backed off to look at it and I didn't think to tell him we needed to... We were just trying to beat the remnants of the tropical storm (which we didn't get that much rain anyway, but... we didn't know that at the time).
But it's usually gone in less than 24 hours, correct?
Where in NC are you?
..and did that shallow 'arc' buckle under the snow you did get?
I would recommend not more than an 8' span at bottom of arc for a 16' panel to hold up snow....unless you plan to support panel with 'posts', 2x2's would suffice.
ROTFLOL for real!
Hmmm. I don't understand physics so I'm confused. (No surprise there.) So if it was difficult to bend does that mean it is stronger when flatter? Or is a tall bend stronger?
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Thanks again. You've been very helpful.Not difficult to bend at all... Difficult to "stretch" to hold it to the bars for attachment. The fact that it is rather flat explains why. Would/should be easier when we move it up a row of squares - more easily spread out/attached. Does that make more sense?
YES, taller, with more bend, is stronger. BUT you want to have something coming down the sides to brace it (? - OK I'm sorry, I'm terrible at the technical, mechanical, scientific terms. I still use "thingy" and "whatchamacall-its" and "round-toits" - terrible for teaching this).
If I was to do this on the ground, it would be braced inside of a square frame (for a coop or green house that can be moved) & with framing for the back and front to include at least one door. That framing can be done in such a way as to better support the top of the arch. OR you can sink Tposts into the ground & have the CP braced against that - depending on the size/height of the t-posts, you are talking several feet of support/bracing. I think that almost all of the structures I've done have been right around 8' wide - even when not measured - as that seems to be the easiest size that clears my own 5'6" height w/ about 6" to spare and appears to be the most structurally sound (um... I think I guess? I didn't know that each was about 8' wide until I went back later and checked).
I know that this shed is 8' deep x 12' wide (the pallets are 48"x48") and the panels don't have quite the steep arch but they are attached well to the pallets and also to a couple of t-posts behind the shed (the back "corners"). I don't know how well the shed would withstand the weather completely in the open. It's a lot more protected where I chose to put it up than we ever realized. I will have to count how many squares I have extending below the top of the pallets, as I don't remember.
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BTW - the 5 gallon reusable water bottles make great chicken waterers. I keep getting more from the dump. People throw the 5 gallon bottles away.