Confused about coops

[trailhiker]

I build my coops with a ground floor. One of the benefits of a ground floor for me is my method of keeping the water from freezing.

Alternate method to prevent water freezing.​

My Guinea Coop​

I appreciate the pictures. We used to have turkeys and they would drown themselves if I gave them a bucket like that! I assume that is not a problem with the guineas. I also noticed your temperature ranges. Sounds like Minnesota where we are from. I am going to miss a good blizzard - and I love to shovel snow, it's so peaceful - but not 6 months of winter.

 

[trailhiker]

Mmmm, lots of questions at once!

1) Elevate vs on ground - personal preference. I have two chicken coops that are elevated - it allowed me to have a smaller footprint because part of the run is under the coop. It also provides a shady, cool spot for birds during our extreme heat. Downside is that there’s no ground insulation during seriously cold weather, and it can be hard to catch chickens (actually, it’s my PIA ducks!). My guinea coop is on the ground, which is more insulating and was easier to build.

2) Vents, I have the arched cattle panel coop with the South end open wire. In the summer, the entire south end is open hardware cloth and the upper North end is also open. That means that the top section, where they roost, has open airflow all summer for cross-ventilation. I cover the arch with a white vinyl tarp which reflects the sun, so the coop does not get too hot in our 100+ F degree summers. This coop was primarily built for our hot summers, sometimes up to 110 F. For the winter, I cover the upper areas with a clear tarp. That leaves the North totally closed off and the South end closed at the top, so roosting guineas don’t have wind directly blowing on their high roosts. The South side below roost level is always open. See attached pic of South side during winter, with upper portion covered with tarp. So, my ventilation is different from what you normally hear about with high ventilation. Mine is lower than the birds, both for the guineas and chickens. This was my attempt to follow Woods coop principles without building a Woods coop! I could use more ventilation in my chicken coop but the guineas coop behaves well. Yes, rain blows in sometimes. If it gets too wet, I shovel it out and add more shavings. Summer storms are warm and not a problem for the birds. In winter, cold storms are from the North, which is blocked off. Warm storms are from the South, which is mostly open. Even during extreme winter cold (highs in single digits, lows of -10 F) this past Feb, guineas did well confined to the coop.


3) 300’ - that’s up to you. Guinea fowl are LOUD! Like, really loud. But it’s my roosters that I hear at 5 AM… I have the guineas at least 300’ away and still hear them faintly some nights. In spring, new noises and deer rustling around will wake them up. Sometimes I check on them, sometimes not. For me, nighttime buck wheating (female call) is a somewhat annoying spring issue. I can mostly ignore it.

You are hearing them at night? Sounds almost like I will be on a nursing schedule with a newborn. How many guinea roosters do you have? Will just one make a lot of noise and are they pretty regular like chicken roosters?

 

[trailhiker]

Ventilation is critical. You can get away with a lot as long as you have good ventilation. If it gets too hot you may need to add a circulation fan.

Thank you. I can put up a circulating fan in the summer.

 

[R2elk]

I appreciate the pictures. We used to have turkeys and they would drown themselves if I gave them a bucket like that! I assume that is not a problem with the guineas. I also noticed your temperature ranges. Sounds like Minnesota where we are from. I am going to miss a good blizzard - and I love to shovel snow, it's so peaceful - but not 6 months of winter.

I have turkeys. It is not a problem with my turkeys. It is all in how they are raised. I would not put it out for the littles. If that is a concern there is a drawing of how I would limit the surface area with a custom made lid.

 

[trailhiker]

Guineas can be nasty to each other. It is beneficial to provide hiding places and obstacles so the lower pecking order members can escape from their tormenters. Hiding places should be open ended.

I think I might have to arrange for a hall monitor to keep the bullying under control.

 

[R2elk]

You are hearing them at night? Sounds almost like I will be on a nursing schedule with a newborn. How many guinea roosters do you have? Will just one make a lot of noise and are they pretty regular like chicken roosters?

Male guineas are cocks. The ideal ratio of males to hens is 1 to 1. Other than the alarm calls, the hens buckwheating is the major noise. It goes on until they choose a mate.

 

[R2elk]

I think I might have to arrange for a hall monitor to keep the bullying under control.

Just like with turkeys the more that you interfere the longer it takes them to settle their differences. Sometimes inviting a bully to dinner can be helpful. They are delicious.

 

[Mixed flock enthusiast]

You are hearing them at night? Sounds almost like I will be on a nursing schedule with a newborn. How many guinea roosters do you have? Will just one make a lot of noise and are they pretty regular like chicken roosters?

I have chicken roosters, who are the loud ones from 5-7 AM. As far as nighttime noise from the guinea fowl, I do hear them sometimes at night. The females will make a call when the flock gets concerned about nighttime noise. They don’t usually do that, I haven’t heard nighttime calls from them for months. I usually hear their nighttime calls in the spring. When I’ve used game cameras to see what’s bothering them, all I’ve gotten are deer pictures. So I’m guessing my deer change their route in the summer, and their noise concerns my guineas. There are a few threads here about nighttime noise from guinea fowl:

https://www.backyardchickens.com/posts/23905820

https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/guineas-screaming-up-a-storm-at-midnight.1409620/

 

[Sydney65]

I am learning so much from this site but it is definitely creating questions which is a good thing as I will be new to guineas in a couple weeks and I want to be successful...

First of all I want to thank all the generous people who respond to posts with their extensive knowledge. Secondly, I apologize for this lengthy post with multiple questions about coops. Everytime I think I am pretty comfortable with what I need to do BOOM! I lose confidence and am reminded that I don't know much and this is a genuine learning process that will continue as long as I own the guineas. SO, I know I won't master this but I am somewhat of a perfectionist and don't want to lose my flock and start over. Neither do I want them banging into each other trying to escape my endeavors! I don't know who will have more fun - or should I say challenges - me or the guineas.

Why are the coops built off the ground if there is so much trouble with the guineas trying to hide under the coop and under the ramp? If it was secure all the way around from predators could it be on the ground - like on concrete block or timbers with a floor in the coop?

I see some are building coops that are very open except covered by chicken wire for protection from predators. Some are using the plastic panels for roofing. I am in South central Missouri, very close to the Arkansas border. If I built a coop like that would they be too cold in the winter? Will they be bothered by rain that blows in? Will plastic panels on the roof cause the coop to heat up too much? They will be free range during the day but nights can be hot here.

I saw one post where there were triangular runs covered by brush in the coop so that the picked on birds could escape. Should those runs be a dead end? I would think they should come out at the other end in case they are chased through it.

I also read some information outside of this site from someone who seemed very knowledgeable. He stated that the coop should be at least 300' from the house as they are spooked by just about everything. That seems impossible for me unless I clear out a space in the woods but I don't want them in the woods I want them in the grass areas around the house which are pretty extensive since I have Lyme disease and really. really need to prevent a new infection.

Then, about the vents..... do they stay open all year? I think the average temperature here is around 40 but, of course there will be stretches of much colder temps.
And the lights.... should I use l lights that auto turn off after they are in the coop or do they need some light in the coop all night?

We have just moved here and are very slow moving in as this new house is at least 1/3 the size of our previous house and garages BUT we still have all our stuff
So, The quickest guinea house that is safe and succcessful is what I want. I saw the ones using cattle fencing covered by tarps but that just seems like it would heat up so much here.

I have almost as many questions as I had with the birth of my first child. But, that was easier as I knew my baby would be right near me all the time. These guineas - now that's another happy expectancy that seems fraught with so many dangers.

The most fun and challenges -definitely you.
Ours is "off the ground" in that it's built on 2x10 "sleigh runners". That was to make it easy to move...until I started adding to the original design w/plywood floors,etc. Still easy to move w/lawn tractor or truck. But it's also built w/cross beams from runner to runner so neither they nor anything else can get under it w/o digging. I suggested concrete blocks. My contractor (aka husband) rolled his eyes and said it'd be better to pour concrete.
Likewise, there isn't enough space to go under my ramp normally. But my ramp is the pop door open, hinged at the bottom. It does have abt 3" clearance beneath, so this summer when she had her newly hatched keets in there, I did put a rock on the ramp to make sure no little ones got trapped below.
By plastic panels, do you mean corrugated polly panels or sheet plastic? Depends on the local conditions. Mine is a modified "truck"- the coop and run are built as one unit on those runners, with a steel siding roof. Despite @R2elk telling me numerous times "they'll be fine", I use the poly panels in the winter time to enclose the run, basically giving them a sun room. Sounds silly, but it keeps the run dry and I'm even comfortable in it most of the winter. That's my quirk, bc I enjoy spending time w/them, and don't enjoy the smell of wet bedding.
My goons are quiet inside. I was terrified our first year when raccoons invaded. None got inside, but I insisted we pull it up to the back door. We've since moved it back, but still, neve‍r heard a peep, even when the windows were open. -oh, except during thunderstorms. They do have a habit of yelling back at thunder for some reason.
Yep, you want the vents open. Cold dry air they can cope with. Cold moist air causes frost bite, and ammonia build up causes respiratory infections. We've just been discussing this-I bought a warming plate for them in Feb when we had the dreadful cold. I used it that one week and that was it. But that's not the norm for us. If you're near Ft Leonard Wood, you get more snow and flooding issues than I do. I didn't compare my thoughts to others, but I will say goons hate snow. They don't want to walk it in it or be covered in it. In the summertime, the rain doesn't phase them, but in the winter, they need to be able to be dry.
Light- I have different types of solar lights inside and out. Outside stays on all night, inside ones kick off shortly after it gets dark, giving them time to get settled. Lights on all night can lead to fights. If they can't see, they can't fight. - same reason you make sure your coop is more secure than a brinks truck.
You wouldn't use just tarps - brinks truck.. you'd form your cattle panels, attach hard cloth over it, and that would would be your good season coop, except a partial area to provide shade. When you start winter prepping, up come the tarps.
Dangers you never thought of, and just when you think you've considered them all, 4 more pop up. Still worth it.

 

[Unicornlife3316]

I am learning so much from this site but it is definitely creating questions which is a good thing as I will be new to guineas in a couple weeks and I want to be successful...

First of all I want to thank all the generous people who respond to posts with their extensive knowledge. Secondly, I apologize for this lengthy post with multiple questions about coops. Everytime I think I am pretty comfortable with what I need to do BOOM! I lose confidence and am reminded that I don't know much and this is a genuine learning process that will continue as long as I own the guineas. SO, I know I won't master this but I am somewhat of a perfectionist and don't want to lose my flock and start over. Neither do I want them banging into each other trying to escape my endeavors! I don't know who will have more fun - or should I say challenges - me or the guineas.

Why are the coops built off the ground if there is so much trouble with the guineas trying to hide under the coop and under the ramp? If it was secure all the way around from predators could it be on the ground - like on concrete block or timbers with a floor in the coop?

I see some are building coops that are very open except covered by chicken wire for protection from predators. Some are using the plastic panels for roofing. I am in South central Missouri, very close to the Arkansas border. If I built a coop like that would they be too cold in the winter? Will they be bothered by rain that blows in? Will plastic panels on the roof cause the coop to heat up too much? They will be free range during the day but nights can be hot here.

I saw one post where there were triangular runs covered by brush in the coop so that the picked on birds could escape. Should those runs be a dead end? I would think they should come out at the other end in case they are chased through it.

I also read some information outside of this site from someone who seemed very knowledgeable. He stated that the coop should be at least 300' from the house as they are spooked by just about everything. That seems impossible for me unless I clear out a space in the woods but I don't want them in the woods I want them in the grass areas around the house which are pretty extensive since I have Lyme disease and really. really need to prevent a new infection.

Then, about the vents..... do they stay open all year? I think the average temperature here is around 40 but, of course there will be stretches of much colder temps.
And the lights.... should I use l lights that auto turn off after they are in the coop or do they need some light in the coop all night?

We have just moved here and are very slow moving in as this new house is at least 1/3 the size of our previous house and garages BUT we still have all our stuff
So, The quickest guinea house that is safe and succcessful is what I want. I saw the ones using cattle fencing covered by tarps but that just seems like it would heat up so much here.

I have almost as many questions as I had with the birth of my first child. But, that was easier as I knew my baby would be right near me all the time. These guineas - now that's another happy expectancy that seems fraught with so many dangers.

i am going to first off admit that I did not read everyone’s replies so it’s likely I’m repeating what someone else has said but, here’s my set up.

I have 14 guinea fowl who sleep in a 12x12 dog kennel. I have fencing across the top and the sides (I lost a couple to a bobcat who could get it’s paws in, so I have covered every inch so nothing can stick their grubby paws in) - next to them I have 16 chickens in another dog kennel. Also with plywood around the bottom and they are both covered with hardwire and a heavy tarp of sorts. They are inside a lean to that’s open on the front.
I use 2x4s and dowel rods as my roosts. Dirt floor, I rake it/shovel it a few times a year and when it gets cold, I add some hay. Idk why, but I like to add hay during the winter
I’m in Texas so we had that severe freeze in February - I covered both kennels in sheets/moving blankets and put hay down. I didn’t lose a single bird. Nobody even got frost bite, it was a freaking win in my book.

The most important thing about guineas (well ok maybe 2) -
1. They don’t like dark places - a lot of people have trouble getting them in to closed coops because it’s too dark so they have to put lights up.

2. They have to be trained where home is. I do a MINIMUM of 3 weeks where I expect them to sleep. Hell sometimes when my birds decide to be jerks, I lock them in for a week to retrain them even though some of then have been here for 3 years! If they’re adults, I’d do a minimum of 6 weeks in the place I want them to sleep. Which (in my opinion) if you have a closed coop, is pretty dang impossible.

The kennels were cheap and easy to to fix to what I needed and wanted.

pics to kind of show what I mean. I should also mention - all my birds free range. I let them out in the morning and I put them up every night.