Consolidated Kansas

[chicken danz]

Here's a link you should check out. I suspect that maybe you are trying to feed her too well. She needs hay and forage. I had read that on several sites. I also read that worms will cause them to go off feed. If you can't do a fecal sample and have it tested ivermectin or panacur should work and then repeat it in 10 days to remove any other worms. I know you aren't a fan of chemicals but maybe it would be necessary.
Hope she comes around.
https://www.openherd.com/articles/6...--nutritional-problems-teeth-and-body-scoring

 

[nick1234]

Hi everyone!

Just registered with the site when I stumbled upon this forum! We've been thinking about and researching chickens for a few months now. I think we found a coop that will work for our needs on craigslist. We only want to start with 4 or so.

Based on what I've read on here, it will need more ventilation!

Anyway, KS kinda gets the worst of both cold winter and hot summer... what do you guys do to make sure your coop is good for both winter and summer? (most of what I've read makes recs for hot or cold climates, but not both!)

Second, I live in Lawrence. Any others out there? If so, Rock Chalk! Looking forward to the game in manhattan in a few days.

I'm looking for somewhere to buy the chickens, preferably pullets or already laying hens. (We have a pretty small house, a cat, and a toddler. I don't think chicks would make it haha... unless you guys convince me otherwise... [I think in maybe 2 years or so we will want to do a few from egg so our kid can see, but she is still too little now I think]). Also, from what I understand, you can't tell on most breeds if it is a girl or a guy when they are 1-day-old. True? I don't really want a rooster.

Any ideas? Preferred feed shops?

Any help is much appreciated!!

Thanks,
Nick

 

[Prairie Fleur]

Here's a link you should check out. I suspect that maybe you are trying to feed her too well. She needs hay and forage. I had read that on several sites. I also read that worms will cause them to go off feed. If you can't do a fecal sample and have it tested ivermectin or panacur should work and then repeat it in 10 days to remove any other worms. I know you aren't a fan of chemicals but maybe it would be necessary.
Hope she comes around.
https://www.openherd.com/articles/6...--nutritional-problems-teeth-and-body-scoring

Well, we've had grass hay out the whole time and she won't touch it... Sigh. we gave her a B Complex shot and have been pushing the probiotics. At least she's not impacted. Most alpacas that get impacted end up dieing, I found out today. I'm giving her some dewormer that I have on hand as well as a homeopathic antibiotic. We'll see how she is in the morning. It's raining and raining here and they got pretty wet before we got them moved to the shop. I hope that doesn't make her worse. DH has been really sweet about letting them be in there when the weathers nasty.
Hosanna hasn't had her babies yet. Maybe she'll wait until the cold spell is over with. She's developed a beautiful udder!! I can't wait to milk her. The chooks are doing fine. I'm averaging about 3 eggs a day now. All but 2 or 3 of my hens are laying now. Both Marans, 2 of my BLRWs and at least on of my older SLWs. My SLW pullet and roo are filling out nicely. Roo is looking prettier all the time.

Welcome to the group, Nick! I joined not so long ago myself and these fine people have helped me with a lot of things already!

 

[KsKingBee]

The gentle hum of the incubator has begun. We set 24 shipped BCM eggs and 60 of our barnyard mixes, (BOMs and Eggers), and in a few days we will set another tray of our BCM eggs and top off the second incubator with more mixed eggs for Easter chick sales. We have some relly beautiful BOMs, (Buff Orps from exhibition stock crossed with BCMs), that make for some really beautiful orange and black hens with heart shaped spots on their breasts. The BOMs are heavy and lay a large pinkish egg, very pretty in the egg basket.

I call these our 'Sweethearts'.





I have been getting requests for Pea eggs and chicks so I have submitted my exam for NPIP certification, ordered the antigen and bands, and have an appointment for the local vet to come out and help me test all the birds on the property. What a job that is going to be. Eighty peas, seventy-five guineas, and fifty-ish chickens is going to make for a long afternoon. I have been hearing about more and more surprise visits from the state at swaps and auctions, and the post office is supposed to check for certification numbers too. The forst two people to ask about me shipping to them asked for NPIP so I decided it was the thing to do.

 

[chicken danz]

Hi everyone!

Just registered with the site when I stumbled upon this forum! We've been thinking about and researching chickens for a few months now. I think we found a coop that will work for our needs on craigslist. We only want to start with 4 or so.

Based on what I've read on here, it will need more ventilation!

Anyway, KS kinda gets the worst of both cold winter and hot summer... what do you guys do to make sure your coop is good for both winter and summer? (most of what I've read makes recs for hot or cold climates, but not both!)

Second, I live in Lawrence. Any others out there? If so, Rock Chalk! Looking forward to the game in manhattan in a few days.

I'm looking for somewhere to buy the chickens, preferably pullets or already laying hens. (We have a pretty small house, a cat, and a toddler. I don't think chicks would make it haha... unless you guys convince me otherwise... [I think in maybe 2 years or so we will want to do a few from egg so our kid can see, but she is still too little now I think]). Also, from what I understand, you can't tell on most breeds if it is a girl or a guy when they are 1-day-old. True? I don't really want a rooster.

Any ideas? Preferred feed shops?

Any help is much appreciated!!

Thanks,
Nick

I have a Waverly address so I'm not real far from you. Welcome to the forum.
I think if you want to avoid the small chicks you'd be wise to get some that are feathered out enough to sex. You could still bond with them and they wouldn't be so easily demised. 8 or so weeks old is normally old enough to tell sex. I strongly discourage buying adult birds. If you aren't real informed about birds, people will tell you a hen is about a year old when in fact could be an old spent hen that they are trying to discard. This is particularly true of sex link chickens who burn out in a couple years. If you buy young you can often make them very friendly to you and you KNOW they aren't old birds. You will also enjoy them more and get a lot more excited when you ge that first egg.
Just in case you are looking at one of those little coops like Orchlen's sells, I would highly discourage it. They are made with thin, light weight and cheap products and really don't give your hens any real protection to a stray dog or whatever else decides to get in. Plus a friend of mine bought one and it topples over in the wind. Just a word of caution. I would also recommend going much bigger than you think you need. Most people increase the number of birds they have and have to buy or build something bigger anyway.
To get through all seasons the most important factor is ventilation. I also recommend putting a chicken house under the shade of a tree if you have one. I wish I had 100 more trees myself. A good tree will make a difference of 10-15 degrees in the heat of summer. Also place it where you can run an extension cord to it if possible. In winter you will need a way to keep water from freezing most likely and if you do ever get chicks you'll need to run a heat lamp or something.
I don't like saying not to buy this feed or that. But I will say this. Keep with a well known brand, i.e. Purina, Manna Pro etc. Store brands can have their problems. If you grow a garden nothing is more pleasing to chickens than fresh produce. Or if you just have a few maybe you could throw in a little extra from the store. Chickens can be garbage cans. They eat about any kind of leftover except citrus. You may read some things that say not to give your chickens this or that. But I've learned over time that chickens won't normally eat anything that will hurt them. But of course never give them spoiled or moldy food.

 

[chicken danz]

KingBee you won't regret that. It's good to have another tester around too. I am always being asked to test when there isn't any one around to do a flock test. The most important thing is to have the birds confined into cages or pens when you can grab them one at a time. Have preferably 3 people to do it. Do you have a test box? You will need water, and needles or something to prick the veins. I have a loop and it is pretty worthless for pricking. I use needles that go on syringes because they last longer than most things. I've tried a lot of different things but after you do a few birds you loose your points on other things and they are trash. I just order a package of 50 or so at a time.
I just ordered some more antigen myself. It's getting that time of year.

 

[nick1234]

chicken danz,

Thanks for the reply! Ya, not very far at all.

Totally agree about the cheapo store-bought ones. I went to a few places and they all seemed really expensive or very flimsy (or BOTH in some cases!) (checked home depot, tractor supply, wal mart etc.). The one we found on craigslist needs a little TLC, but the price is right ($100). Based on the info on this site, it can hold between 4 and 6 (at 2-3 sq ft per bird; it is 12 sq ft) Way cheaper than I could build it for, and way cheaper than any of the ones worth buying in a store. I'm sure at some point we will want to upgrade to a bigger coop at which point I will probably build one or find a nice one on craigslist. I want to make sure we actually like it though before going nuts and see how many eggs we really want.

You hit the nail on the head with all my concerns. Too young, don't know the sex. Mature, I can't tell how old they are and might get the wool pulled over my eyes. So it seems like 2 month old pullets are the way to go. They will pretty much have feathered out at this point, right?

Lots of trees in the backyard.

Thanks for all the other advice too. We are pumped!!

Nick

 

[chicken danz]

chicken danz,

Thanks for the reply! Ya, not very far at all.

Totally agree about the cheapo store-bought ones. I went to a few places and they all seemed really expensive or very flimsy (or BOTH in some cases!) (checked home depot, tractor supply, wal mart etc.). The one we found on craigslist needs a little TLC, but the price is right ($100). Based on the info on this site, it can hold between 4 and 6 (at 2-3 sq ft per bird; it is 12 sq ft) Way cheaper than I could build it for, and way cheaper than any of the ones worth buying in a store. I'm sure at some point we will want to upgrade to a bigger coop at which point I will probably build one or find a nice one on craigslist. I want to make sure we actually like it though before going nuts and see how many eggs we really want.

You hit the nail on the head with all my concerns. Too young, don't know the sex. Mature, I can't tell how old they are and might get the wool pulled over my eyes. So it seems like 2 month old pullets are the way to go. They will pretty much have feathered out at this point, right?

Lots of trees in the backyard.

Thanks for all the other advice too. We are pumped!!

Nick

I'm glad I could help. Feel free to ask as much as you want. There are lots of people here that can answer all kinds of questions. And sometimes you'll get a lot of different opinions. That is good though cause you can just choose what works best for you. Have you thought about what breed of chickens you want? I assume if you live in town you won't want roosters for meat at all so that can be a decision. The sex links are probably a great choice for layers but if you see yourself getting fond of them I wouldn't recommend them because they last such a short time. They are great for food conversion = eggs but if they become "pets" you'll end up with non-productive birds. Leghorns are also great layers but they are more flighty and probably not really suited to city life. If you want good eggs of a decent size, avoid the bantams and cutesy birds like silkies. I've raised a lot of breeds at one time or another. And eliminated many because of one trait or another. Sometimes it is good to go to a hatchery website and read descriptions and look at pictures. Cackle hatchery has really useful information ....just as a suggested place to start. If you want started birds you'll have to buy from an individual but you can learn about some of the breeds there. Also Feathersite is a good website to go to to read about different breeds. They have a chickens A-Z page you can look at.

 

[KeyFlock]

Hey guys, I'm new to the forum and I'm from Kansas too!

 

[leck8]

Anyone from around Thayer kansas