Consolidated Kansas

Help! One of the 3 new "pullets" I got in March started CROWING yesterday! And the city of Wichita doesn't allow roosters! I'm not opposed (in theory) to a chicken dinner, but I don't think I can do the deed myself. He's 8 weeks old, a beautiful California Leghorn (which I was told are tamer than regular Leghorns), and I handle him every day, so he's tame. I'd be happy to give him to anyone, to keep or eat -- but not to fight!

Greta in Wichita
If you lived any where closer to NC KS I would definatly take you up on your offer. Any chance you would enjoy a little road trip with a rooster?? I have 11 California white and 7 brown leghorn pullets that are 5 weeks old and as for roosters I only have two, 2 week old Buff Orp roosters. I would like to be able to hatch out some chicks in the future.
 
Actually, I agree with this, as I also don't follow the 4 sq ft rule in the coop and haven't had any issues. My coop is 10x10 and over the winter housed 2 turkeys, 6 ducks, 2 Seramas (who don't need more than 1 sq ft), 8 bantams (about 2 sq ft apiece requirement) and about 30 LF hens. If you add it all up:

30 LF = 120 sq ft
8 bantams = 16 sq ft
2 Seramas = 2 sq ft
2 turkeys = ? I dunno - shall we say 5 apiece, so another 10 sq ft

So, I should need a minimum of about 150 sq ft but 100 not only didn't cause problems but didn't seem crowded. Some of that is the way I have my roosts:


The roost set up like this allowed everyone who wanted to be on the roost a place, with lots of room to spare. The silkies and most of the ducks sleep on the floor so that makes for additional space for everyone too.

During the day they have a really large yard to roam in, and when I am here in the afternoons, I open the gate and let them out to free-range several acres, so I think that is why it doesn't seem to matter that the coop is smaller than the recommendation. As your friend said, the only time they are all in it at the same time is at night, when they are all sleeping anyway. During the day they are in and out to eat and lay eggs but only a small fraction of the total flock is inside at any given time. The only other time size matters is in really inclement weather. We had a couple of large snow storms this winter that kept them coop-bound for several days at a time. I scatted corn for them in the straw and that kept them busy for awhile scratching through it to find the corn. If they were always cooped up like that I'm sure I'd start to see issues but when it is only for a few days and then they can get out again, they seem to just hunker down and wait it out and I didn't have any problems with them bickering, feather plucking etc - the kinds of things you usually see when they are bored. They did each have to go out at least once per day since I don't keep water in the coop so when they got thirsty they had to at least go far enough to eat some snow.


Regarding processing...before you pluck you want to dunk them in hot water. I usually shoot for a temperature of 150-170 - not hot enough to start cooking them, but hot enough to loosen the feathers. Usually about a minute is good - to test, tug on a wing feather and when it slides out easily, they're ready. After that the feathers come of in handfuls so it usually isn't too bad. The worst is the little pin feathers that you have to pick out one by one. Some birds just have more of those than others. If you are going to be doing large numbers on a regular basis, you may want to invest in a plucker. The real pluckers are pretty expensive but I recently purchased one that attaches to the end of a drill and it works pretty well and does save some time.

Are you sure they are straight cornish birds you have? The behavior you are describing where they sit around at the feeder and can barely walk sounds more like Cornish X which are a whole 'nother kettle of fish. Straight Cornish are usually pretty mobile and relatively normal acting birds.
Your absolutly right that they are probably Cornish X. I purchaced them at a farm store, where I have found out, are not so great at labeling their chicks. Thanks for the advice on processing!! Have you heard of inserting a small knife blade through the mouth to the back of the brain, as to loosen the feathers??? I read that some where but do not remember where???
 
So my stupid internet is down and won't connect. It shows I am getting a signal but something isn't working. So I guess I am just writing blind ahead of time.
Yesterday I moved a huge load of chicks out to the brooder house. I had taken all the dividers out so it is one big open space. I did have a few older chicks in there but they all seem to be doing fine together.
Then I decided to start on my next hoop coop. What a dumb person I can be. Sometimes having too much confidence doesn't work well. With my first one I took it slow and planned everything as I went. Well this time I jumped the gun and built the entire frame work and forgot my own advice not to put in the braces until the panels were in. The result since I used the nail gun instead of screws (another mistake I made) was that I had to cut the panels to fit over the braces. It will all work out but it would have been stronger and more efficient if I had done it the way I did the first one. I also put the ends on the inside of the length ways boards instead of on the outside, another way that changed my dimensions so I have 3 inches less in length, more panel sticking out and a little less overall strength. Some days I just feel like a total ditt.
I have some of my poults dying. It's ones I am sure that just never started eating. It is much easier to make sure they are eating well if you don't have so many that look alike. I never lost a poult last year and it seems this year I have just almost batted 1000.
I'm also glad I found an active Kansas thread. I live in north Central KS. I currently am the proud owner of 92 chickens which consist of 10 different breeds. I am really beginning to love my buff orps. We are planning to butcher (for the first time) 12 ST Cornish. They are 5 weeks old and are getting so fat that they lay in front of the feeder and eat, sleep and poop without moving. Their so lazy that it's as if you can tell that it aggravates them to have to get up and waddle their chunky butts to get an occasional drink. Does anyone have any advice for a first time butcher? My wife and I are both nurses and avid outdoors enthusiast, neither blood nor a little poo concern us much. I have cleaned fish, deer, rabbits and really just about anything that one can hunt or trap in Kansas that is edible. I guess my concern is making sure that the plucking doesn't take forever and that we don't do anything to ruin all the $$$$ that I have spent on having farm raised fresh chicken. Everyone advised me to feed the medicated chick starter. I switched them Monday to a non medicated feed because I didn't know if they should be butchered and eaten with the antibiotic still in their system. Can anyone shed some light on this for me as well??? Thanks in advance for the support and advice!!!

Welcome Knhkluckers. Jump in. Aw My internet is back up for a moment anyway.
On the subject of space for chickens I think people overlook space in the coop itself because there are a lot of square feet not accounted for by using floor space alone, like on roosts, on rafters, nestboxes etc. By standards I have way too many birds per square feet if you just count floor space. A good deal of mine free range every day and going to bed in a tighter space doesn't bother them at all. The ones kept in the pens don't have a lot of room but they seem to do okay with it. I think Chooks was talking about space required to give them access to and to maintain green food.
If I ever get things set up the way I would like I would like to rotate breeds to free range ..one breed at a time so they can all get exposure to grass and still keep the breeds pure. But like everything else that is what I want to do...not what will happen.
Speaking of diets for dogs and cats. When your dogs weigh over 100 pounds each you have to be reasonable about how much you can afford. Also dog food isn't a one size fits all. Everything needs to be taken into consideration as far as their physical size, activity, etc. And with my dogs you have to find a food they will eat. Feeding a less than perfect dog food is better than not having them eat at all. I often cook the dogs dinner. I use less than desirable cuts of meat or even some that got freezer burnt. I cook it with rice and any veggies I can find, usually in my case that is frozen veggies. It kind of fills in some of the nutritional needs the dogs have. I also grow sweet potatoes just for the dogs. They are very good for them and the dogs love them.
 
With all this rain and snow my duck pen is a mess. Last night I must have sunk in about five inches of mud. I have never had an issue in the past three springs with this. If it was muddy, it would dry in a few hours. My ducks and their coop are filthy and it is now really beginning to smell. It hasn't been dry since probably January. I tried putting some straw down but that disappeared in no time. Any ideas? Once this dries up, if I put a few inches of construction sand, should that help for next year?
 
Oh I also forgot. The perfect temperature to dip chickens for plucking is 159 degrees. At that temp the feathers should come out easily including the pin feathers. I don't envy you butchering though. Not a favorite of mine to do.
 
With all this rain and snow my duck pen is a mess. Last night I must have sunk in about five inches of mud. I have never had an issue in the past three springs with this. If it was muddy, it would dry in a few hours. My ducks and their coop are filthy and it is now really beginning to smell. It hasn't been dry since probably January. I tried putting some straw down but that disappeared in no time. Any ideas? Once this dries up, if I put a few inches of construction sand, should that help for next year?

Sand seems to disappear in a short time. I would recommend some agrogate or screenings (gravel). I have some of those areas and adding straw creates mold problems sometimes. I plan to fill in some low spots with some more of my crappy excuse for dirt than add some screenings to the top of it. I don't like the idea of having birds on rocks but the mud and standing water is awful. If you have some disinfectant, Oxine, Odorban, or tek trol in example you can spray some fairly heavily in the stinking mud and get some of the odor out. I have several of those pools of green slime around here from the ducks. Of course it rained last night so that puts all the more rain in there to deal with.
I was going to mow today finally. Not going to happen.
 

New posts New threads Active threads

Back
Top Bottom