Converting plywood U-box into coop

[Huguechicks]

Hello, my husband and I are looking forward to setting up a coop and run for 4-6 chickens this spring. We bought a decommissioned plywood U-box from uHaul that we will be converting into the coop. The dimensions are 7’8” by 4’8” and 6’10” tall. It has a human size door for access and we will add a small chicken door, some sort of roof, and line with hardware cloth. What type of ventilation/insulation should we consider for a structure like this? For reference we are in West Virginia in Zone 5.

 

[SmiYa0126]

Omg! What a great idea! Where did you get it?!

Tagging some people below that can help

@3KillerBs @aart

 

[NatJ]

The dimensions are 7’8” by 4’8” and 6’10” tall. It has a human size door for access and we will add a small chicken door, some sort of roof, and line with hardware cloth. What type of ventilation/insulation should we consider for a structure like this? For reference we are in West Virginia in Zone 5.

No insulation.

If the wood is sturdy, I would not line it with hardware cloth.

For ventilation, I would either cut out large sections on several walls, and cover those new holes with hardware cloth.

Or add the ventilation when you add the roof: make 6" or so of space that is covered with hardware cloth, with the roof above that, and make the roof overhang so rain does not blow directly in through the ventilation space.

a coop and run for 4-6 chickens this spring.

A common guideline is 1 square foot of ventilation per chicken, plus extra if needed in the summer. So that would mean 6 square feet for 6 chickens (an opening 2x3 feet, or two openings 1.5 by 2 feet, or whatever else works out to the same thing.)

Consider where the roost will go, and put the main ventilation so it does not blow on the roosting chickens. That way you will not have to close it in the winter. Ventilation above their heads works well for many people.

I would consider making an alternate door to use in the warm months: wood frame covered with hardware cloth. Then you would have your extra ventilation for warm and hot weather just by leaving the solid door open (maybe tie it open with a piece of rope, or block it with a big rock, so it doesn't slam around in the wind).

 

[SmiYa0126]

One recommendation for placement, put it under a deciduous tree that faces south, this way you have shade in summer and lots of sun in winter. It creates a cozy place for the chickens to lay

 

[3KillerBs]

Welcome to BYC.

That's a great score to use as a foundation for your build.

Here is some basic information for you to consider as you work with it:

The Usual Guidelines

For each adult, standard-sized hen you need:

• 4 square feet in the coop (.37 square meters)
• 10 square feet in the run (.93 square meters),
• 1 linear foot of roost (.3 meters),
• 1/4 of a nest box,
• And 1 square foot (.09 square meters) of permanent, 24/7/365 ventilation, preferably located over the birds' heads when they're sitting on the roost.

https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/repecka-illustrates-coop-ventilation.77659/

a coop and run for 4-6 chickens this spring.

4 hens

• 16 square feet in the coop. 4'x4' is the only really practical build for this given the common dimensions of lumber.
• 4 feet of roost
• 40 square feet in the run. 4'x10' or 5'x8'. 6'x6' is a bit too small, 6'x8' is more generous and easier to build than 5'x8'.
• 4 square feet of ventilation. A 2'x2' window is theoretically enough, but in practice doesn't create any air FLOW so better to spread the venting around (and even better to exceed the minimums, especially in warm climates).
• 2 nest boxes, to give the hens a choice

6 hens

• 24 square feet in the coop. 4'x6' is the only really practical build for this given the common dimensions of lumber. If you can't walk into it, put the access door in the middle of the long side to make sure you can reach all areas of the coop because a stubborn chicken WILL press itself into/lay an egg in the back corner where you can't reach.
• 6 feet of roost
• 60 square feet in the run. 6'x10' or 8'x8'.
• 6 square feet of ventilation.
• 2 nest boxes, to give the hens a choice

The dimensions are 7’8” by 4’8” and 6’10” tall.

So you have roughly 34 square feet -- room for up to 8 adults. Lovely! Having extra space is very helpful because it gives you room to move around, to have some equipment, to add some "clutter", etc.

Even more importantly, when you get severe winter weather so that the chickens either cannot go into their run or don't want to they still have some space to keep out of each other's way and not get on each others' nerves.

What's your level of DIY skill?

Regardless, one of you best options will be to take the plywood panel off the top and install the roof, extend the corner posts above the current sides, and use that area under the roof as your main ventilation.

A shed roof would be the easiest to build, but if blowing snow is a problem then a gable roof would better protect the roof-level vents. Vent either one with open soffits (covered with hardware cloth), and wire at the tops of the long wall.

Add additional vents at the top of a gable roof with commercial ridge vent and/or open triangles covered with hardware cloth at the gable peaks.

Regardless of roof style, leave a generous overhang all the way around to keep weather out of the vents. Create even more overhang on the nestbox side so that you don't have to stand there with rain dripping on your head when you're collecting the eggs.

 

[Huguechicks]

No insulation.

If the wood is sturdy, I would not line it with hardware cloth.

For ventilation, I would either cut out large sections on several walls, and cover those new holes with hardware cloth.

Or add the ventilation when you add the roof: make 6" or so of space that is covered with hardware cloth, with the roof above that, and make the roof overhang so rain does not blow directly in through the ventilation space.


A common guideline is 1 square foot of ventilation per chicken, plus extra if needed in the summer. So that would mean 6 square feet for 6 chickens (an opening 2x3 feet, or two openings 1.5 by 2 feet, or whatever else works out to the same thing.)

Consider where the roost will go, and put the main ventilation so it does not blow on the roosting chickens. That way you will not have to close it in the winter. Ventilation above their heads works well for many people.

I would consider making an alternate door to use in the warm months: wood frame covered with hardware cloth. Then you would have your extra ventilation for warm and hot weather just by leaving the solid door open (maybe tie it open with a piece of rope, or block it with a big rock, so it doesn't slam around in the wind).

Thank you so much!

 

[JoeCT]

This is right up my alley! These folk's will help and know their stuff. Good luck and awesome idea!

 

[3KillerBs]

Here are really bad drawings of what I mean about the roof.

 

[Huguechicks]

Here are really bad drawings of what I mean about the roof.

View attachment 3396354


View attachment 3396356

This is so helpful! Just to be clear, you are recommending removing the current top completely and replacing with a pitched roof, right? Not building the roof above the current top?

 

[SourRoses]

This is so cool to save effort on your build!

How much did it cost? I need one!