Coop build and questions

You're considering roost height relative to window height, but I recommend putting them a little higher because of floor height: if the chickens can easily and freely walk under the roost bars, they can make better use of the floor space in the coop.

I agree about skipping poop boards. There is not enough total height to stack floor, space for birds to walk, poop boards, roosts, ventilation, roof.

In view of NatJ's comments, I will defer to his experience on bar height. In my run, plenty of birds go under (and sometimes rest/nest/play under a 275 gallon tote I have to store water, whose bottom rests on cinder block - just 8" off the ground - but in my hen house they walk around bars which are higher up. I can't explain it, won't attempt it.
 
Structurally, the coop will withstand snow load just fine. We'll also remove snow when necessary, as the roof is only 4' 10" at the back. The roof is supported by 2x4s, on 24" center. The roof will be covered in composite roofing. During mild winters, we might get 12"-24" of snow, and have 3 weeks of sub zero temperatures. During a hard winter, we could get 6' of snow in a single, 3 day storm, and would typically still see about 3 weeks of sub zero temperatures. I'll never allow more than 2' of snow to accumulate on the roof, less if it's a wet, heavy snow.

I will be adding a perimeter of 2x4 treated lumber at ground level and will use that to attach hardware cloth, to enclose an area under the coop. During all but the coldest times, the chickens will have access to the entire yard. During the cold times, they'll still have access to the area beneath the coop. Water and food will also be kept under the coop. There will also be an attached run, in addition to the run beneath the coop. This will only be utilized when we don't want them to have free run of the entire yard.

The interior area is 32 square feet, with 3 square feet of that being nesting boxes.

I am going to locate both roosts at 18", with one near each end of the 8' length.

For venting, there is also a half inch gap, along the entire perimeter, at the top of the walls. That ends up being another 26' of half inch venting. That will add another 156 square inches of venting.

The above mentioned treated lumber perimeter will also be used to anchor the coop to the ground. We have a 6' fenced back yard, and several large trees, so wind is rarely an issue.

The nesting boxes will be internal, until next spring, at which time I'll add a bump out box, to the back wall. The nesting boxes are also built modular, so can each be removed, individually or as an entire unit. For now, I've decided to go with 3 boxes. They do have a 3" lip, and are easily accessible, through the large front door.

The floor, along with the entire outside, has been primered. The floor will get at least 1 good layer of external paint, maybe 2. The exterior will also be very colorfully coated, with exterior paint.

I think I've decided on pine chips for the main floor, and straw for the nesting area. I have easy access to both.

Lighting will be accomplished by LED, on a timer. Power will be provided by romex wiring, through electrical conduit. There will be a duplex receptacle attached to the ceiling. The only time lighting will be used, is to add morning hours, as the days get shorter. There will also be an exterior receptacle attached under the floor, only to be used to keep water from freezing.

I believe I've figured out my issue adding photos. When I access through my email, it's not taking me to my browser. I'll access through my browser, as I originally did. That should allow me to add photos.
 
Here's a few progress photos.
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Structurally, the coop will withstand snow load just fine. We'll also remove snow when necessary, as the roof is only 4' 10" at the back. The roof is supported by 2x4s, on 24" center. The roof will be covered in composite roofing. During mild winters, we might get 12"-24" of snow, and have 3 weeks of sub zero temperatures. During a hard winter, we could get 6' of snow in a single, 3 day storm, and would typically still see about 3 weeks of sub zero temperatures. I'll never allow more than 2' of snow to accumulate on the roof, less if it's a wet, heavy snow.
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I believe I've figured out my issue adding photos. When I access through my email, it's not taking me to my browser. I'll access through my browser, as I originally did. That should allow me to add photos.

Sounds like you have it covered. And yes, you are good on snow loads. 2x4 southern yellow, 24" on center, can span 5' with a 40 psf live load, and a 10 psf dead load. Your dead load from roofing material will be less than that, a chicken coop can certainly tolerate more than 1/360th deflection, and 40 psf live load of snow is 24" of wet, compact snow, or about 32" of light snow. Given the way those charts are overengineered, the coop will be buried in snow from the ground up before the roof fails from dead weight.
 
I was in construction for many years, as a carpenter. I was also raised on a farm, with anywhere between 20-60 chickens. But I'll tell you what... while it's coming back to me, I'm actually a little disappointed in how much I've forgot!
 
Painting has begun! I've nicknamed it The Hippy Coop. It'll be five colors, and have a mural. We plan to complete the painting today, or tomorrow. The mural take a little longer. Our daughter is still designing it, in her head. It was moved into the back yard yesterday, thanks to my adult kids. The chickens spent the night in it last night. Here's some progress photos. The blue is tape. Once painting is complete, we will need to do some touch up, but it's coming along nicely.

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Venting is now 8"x14", with one in the center, above the door, and one in the top center of the back wall. There's also two windows, each 9"x9". The windows will have hardware cloth, but we'll also have the ability to close the windows. They're located on either side of the door, and near the top. The pictures will show their location, along with the front vent. There's also about a half inch gap along the entire perimeter, at the top of the walls. The interior floor is being primered, as I post this. This will allow for easier cleaning. The exterior will be primered, and then painted. Then trim will be painted and attached. I still need to purchase chicken wire (I'll probably go with hardware cloth), and composite roofing material.

Nesting boxes...

The reason for four nesting boxes is because we will probably add more chickens in the spring. Also, at that time, I'll relocate the nesting boxes, and they'll be "exterior," hanging out the back wall. At that time, the nesting boxes will have their own access, through a hinged roof. At most, we'll have 8 chickens. Throughout spring, summer and fall, they're rarely in their coop, and are "free range," throughout our back yard.

Hmmm, for some reason, while it allowed me to attach photos earlier, it's not letting me right now.
Based on my neoghbor’s long experience, in Columbus, Indiana, where the winters are in daytime mostly in mid to high twenties but with occasional week, here and there temperatures deep in low teens and even on an occasions every few year to single digit, your total winter vent area of two 8x14” matches quite well to his vent area of 0.5ft2/10 ft2 area of the floor. if your winter temperature are similar to ours you should not need nor have? 1/2” extra gap at the top of walls. I can not comment on the size of your summer ventilation by having additional two 9x9” windows. Here the temps are around 88-92 deg F, often quite humid and additional open windows (or uncovered grills) are around 1.5 ft2/10 ft2 area of the floor.
 

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