Coop build. Comments/concerns welcome

[Wisher1000]

Don't tell them, they'll not be able to tell the difference. Many chicken people don't know how to tell, and have to look REALLY close to try. It is impossible to do by taste. With that said, yes, some people refuse to eat fertile eggs. Some people refuse to eat farm raised eggs (they want them pasteurized to kill the germs

) or they are afraid that they will open the egg and find a chick. I take it on myself to educate people about the absurdity of these concerns.

 

[Overoberyl]

Don't tell them, they'll not be able to tell the difference. Many chicken people don't know how to tell, and have to look REALLY close to try. It is impossible to do by taste. With that said, yes, some people refuse to eat fertile eggs. Some people refuse to eat farm raised eggs (they want them pasteurized to kill the germs

) or they are afraid that they will open the egg and find a chick. I take it on myself to educate people about the absurdity of these concerns.

 

[aart]

The going recomendation for large fowl roost space is about a foot per bird.

Make sure you have some ventilation up high and down low, fresh air will come in down low and humid air will go out up high.

Realize that the rest of your shed will become covered in dust if the coop part is only separated by mesh. The dust can come from bedding and will certainley come new feather sheaths being shed.

1/2" hardware cloth is the only thing that will exclude vermin that will eat your chicken feed and the deadly weasel that will eat your chickens.

 

[gmabry75]

Farm fresh eggs seem to sell for 2.50-3$ a dozen around here. Not expecting to make money, more just offset some of the cost of my new flock. Yes there are some that would not eat them period and we have had a friend ask how do we know there isn't a chick in there What y'all are saying is in line with what momma told me. Those buying farm fresh eggs already know all this. So thanks for all the input. Sometimes I just need to hear it more than once to stick. Thanks, Greg

 

[gmabry75]

Got inside wall almost completed. Nest boxes are done other than painting. Any recommendation on paint type?? Here's a pic of wall separating coop from rest of shed. Still gotta install hardware cloth between rafters at top of wall. Was thinking of putting up 3/4" foam insulation sheets between rafters in coop ceiling to help cut down on heat coming off tin roof in summer. Good idea or ?

 

[gmabry75]

The beginning stages of the run. Will be 8x24. 2/3 of the run will be covered with metal and the remaining 1/3 covered with wire. Will have 3' hardware cloth at bottom and 3' 2x4 welded wire at top of sides. Will lay 2x4 welded wire down around perimeter for an apron. Thinking about a few inches of sand in the run.

 

[Wisher1000]

It looks great! I wish (there I go again) I had one just like it!

 

[gmabry75]

All done with the run except door and apron. Running out of time here. Chicks need to be in by next weekend. Weather has not been very cooperative last couple of weeks.

 

[Wisher1000]

Greg - Don't put foam insulation anywhere that the chickens can get to it. They eat it like popcorn! I understand the concern, but I think that it will be okay. I have a metal roof on mine and have not had that problem. Just make sure there is a way for the hot air to vent out and pull fresh air in and I think you will be fine. In the south, we have to worry more about keeping them cool and ventilated than warm. I would suggest you put up roosts in the covered part of the run and hardware cloth up at the ends (it keeps coons from reaching in at night and grabbing the one sitting next to the wire.) My birds all sleep in the rafters of the covered run - year round.

 

[gmabry75]

So your recommendation would be put roosts in both coop and run. Then not bother with pop hole door or what. I believe when the run is through nothing is gonna get in there.