Ditto Dat!Unless you live the the Yukon, inside walls and insulation are completely unnecessary, in fact it can cause problems later with moisture and pests.
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Ditto Dat!Unless you live the the Yukon, inside walls and insulation are completely unnecessary, in fact it can cause problems later with moisture and pests.
I didn’t sketch yet because I’m still in the planning stage. Your post helps out immensely.I could be wrong since I don't see a sketch or maybe if you elaborate on internal vs. external dimensions it would help, but when I read your question I do think of my coop..... If you look at my articles, I started with a dog house. That eventual became "interior." I did build all around it because I liked the base it provided with 4x4's. I used railroad ties placed around the 4x4's for foundation, wood floor on top of that. Like others have said though, I didn't just build the exterior walls up next to it or that would have been a rat hotel (nice of me but no thanks.) I have about 2 feet between the interior and exterior so it really does make it a room inside the overall house now that it's done (it's my baby brooder room.) One side of the original dog house is still external wall, I just added siding and that sounds like your shiplap plan. I don't know, again I could be wrong but if take a look at my pics maybe you'll get ideas?? I did insulate walls not roof (plywood and sheet metal,) only because I had so much left over from a people house project that it made more sense to use it than to store it. Anyhow, just thinking your plan could work just fine given creativity and thought![]()
I'm glad your thinking about predator proofing, but I think you would be wasting HC to sandwich between the two.I suppose I could make the walls plywood, attach the hardware cloth outside, and then attach my shiplap on top of that.
Our yard is not properly fence and I’d be HORRIFIED if something got in there. I’m using the hardware cloth under the floor of the coop too.I'm glad your thinking about predator proofing, but I think you would be wasting HC to sandwich between the two.
Frame in your walls and side the coop with whatever type of siding you prefer. Only realistically need HC over windows and ventilation openings.
METALOur yard is not properly fence and I’d be HORRIFIED if something got in there. I’m using the hardware cloth under the floor of the coop too.
Hardware cloth will be my biggest investment in my chicks.
Also, what do you think about the roof?
Gabled or lean-to?
Metal or shingles?
I do want a metal gabled roof. That’s the look I like. The coop will be 4x8.METAL
and up to you. If your coop is small enough, one piece metal is an easy lean-to style roof. A little larger, and the gable is the better plan. Whatever involves the least cutting of off the shelf metal panels.
Overhangs are your friend. 3/12 pitch is minimum. More is likely better in your climate.
Sort of small, given the potential they will be stuck inside for days - how many birds are you planning on? Or are you planning an attached covered run as well?I do want a metal gabled roof. That’s the look I like. The coop will be 4x8.
I prefer a shed roof(lean-to). If going metal, I'd still uses plywood sheathing under it with rolled roofing, then the metal. Bare metal can condensate and drip inside the coop.Our yard is not properly fence and I’d be HORRIFIED if something got in there. I’m using the hardware cloth under the floor of the coop too.
Hardware cloth will be my biggest investment in my chicks.
Also, what do you think about the roof?
Gabled or lean-to?
Metal or shingles?
and I prefer no sheathing, so I can see if I have a leak. Different climates, different concerns.I prefer a shed roof(lean-to). If going metal, I'd still uses plywood sheathing under it with rolled roofing, then the metal. Bare metal can condensate and drip inside the coop.
I fully understand you want to do whatever you can to keep them safe, but putting HC under the coop and over the entire walls is not needed. Save your money and possibly build a slightly larger coop.
If you do a HC apron around the coop, it will effectively accomplish the same goal with less HC
Yep. Understandable. But to avoid any issues, sheating eliminates those issues. Both of my coops are metal over sheathing. If done correctly, you shouldn't have to look for leaks with either method. If there was a leak, it would be easy to see it as the sheathing would be stained.and I prefer no sheathing, so I can see if I have a leak. Different climates, different concerns.