Coop Decisions

[-Bella Cataline-]

Hello all!

I am very, very much looking forward to getting chickens. They suit my lifestyle and I just love them. My only problem is the coop.

In my area we are over run with predators. Neighbor dogs and cat run wild. Coyotes, foxes, and lots of other critters prowl at night. Huge hawks nest in our woods. My point is I doubt they would live long if allowed to free range. But I know what health problems can be caused from confinement. So my question is, what do I do for a coop? I want to find a coop that has a large run but isn't made for 30 chickens. (I only want four or five) I'd rather stay on budget so building in an option. All the coops I've seen are either cemented to the ground (no grass for the confined girls), made to fit dozens and have a huge price tag, or tiny and just for the hens to return to for the night.

What do you chicken experts do?

 

[Brooks_]

I used 6' welded wire fencing to make the run. Covered it with deer netting (cheap). I am about to change the area that the run covers and will cover it with aviary netting (better) or safety fence or chicken wire. Undecided. As for the coop, I think you'll get the most desired results by building. Spend some time reading about coops in this sub-forum.

General guidelines for standard size birds (per bird)
4 sf in the coop (not counting nesting/food/water etc. area)
10 sf in the run
1 linear foot of roost
1 sf of 24/7/365 ventilation (preferably above their heads when roosting)

and have fun.

 

[neo71665]

I used dog kennels for the run that I covered. The coop is attached to one side. Just one 10x10 foot kennel would be more than enough run for 5 birds.

 

[50-45-1]

health problems can be caused from confinement

Health and behavioral problems can stem from inadequate space
I always recommend to large rather than to small.
Give yourself room to grow. Most of us start with a few and always get more.
Are you thinking a stationary walk in coop, or maybe a movable one that you can move and give the girls fresh grass and dirt every 6-2 months?
I have a neighbor who built a simple coop about 8X6 on skids. They pull it to a new spot and set up there electric netting fence with there solar battery charger. Works great, and since the coop is built tightly and they close all doors at night, they have had no losses.

 

[-Bella Cataline-]

I used 6' welded wire fencing to make the run. Covered it with deer netting (cheap). I am about to change the area that the run covers and will cover it with aviary netting (better) or safety fence or chicken wire. Undecided. As for the coop, I think you'll get the most desired results by building. Spend some time reading about coops in this sub-forum.

General guidelines for standard size birds (per bird)
4 sf in the coop (not counting nesting/food/water etc. area)
10 sf in the run
1 linear foot of roost
1 sf of 24/7/365 ventilation (preferably above their heads when roosting)

and have fun.

Thank you very much!

 

[-Bella Cataline-]

Health and behavioral problems can stem from inadequate space
I always recommend to large rather than to small.
Give yourself room to grow. Most of us start with a few and always get more.
Are you thinking a stationary walk in coop, or maybe a movable one that you can move and give the girls fresh grass and dirt every 6-2 months?
I have a neighbor who built a simple coop about 8X6 on skids. They pull it to a new spot and set up there electric netting fence with there solar battery charger. Works great, and since the coop is built tightly and they close all doors at night, they have had no loss

This is extremely helpful, thank you! And yes, it would have to be movable!

 

[saysfaa]

There is an alternative. I made a predator proof coop big enough for run and coop inside the building.

South side completely open 24/7 52 weeks a year. East windows open 24/7 spring through fall. West doors open sometimes (as soon as I finish building it). Very large dust bath tub, eventually a fodder box, and bedding as close to a forest floor as I can make it.

They don't get full access to grass and other plants but they wouldn't have much grass in a normal (large to huge) run anyway because they would eat/kick it to oblivion pretty fast. They get as much or more sunshine and fresh air as they would in a wooded run. At least until I build the fodder tray, I give them greens and grubs. I might still do that after the fodder tray is going - because I enjoy it.
Oh, and they also don't get full access to dirt. Instead they have access to an old fashioned wash tub with sand and ashes. It is big enough for three or four to bath together. And to the approximation of a forest floor (sort of "will have", some features are still being built.

 

[Boise-girls]

In my experience, the guidelines for standard-size chickens is the minimum you will need. I have 6 banties and met those guidelines for coop, roosts, etc. Their temporary run was just a tad under at 54 SF. They were still little witches towards each other until I started letting them out into their larger run (24'x56', including smaller run and coop). Now, they keep busy and seem pretty happy! I plan to expand the coop and provide more roosting space this summer, since they'll probably spend more time inside in the winter.

 

[3KillerBs]

My Little Monitor Coop is designed to meet all the minimums for 4, standard-sized hens: https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/the-little-monitor-coop.76275/

If you have a heavy predator load consider adding electric wires to your defenses in addition to the half-inch hardware cloth and the anti-dig apron.