Quote:
Nah, no problem... if the glazing is loose around the panes, reglaze (or just caulk the bejeebers out of it); and as far as looseness of the window in its frame, if you can't get it tight enough with just weatherstripping, just caulk the window shut for the winter.
Nah, no problem... if the glazing is loose around the panes, reglaze (or just caulk the bejeebers out of it); and as far as looseness of the window in its frame, if you can't get it tight enough with just weatherstripping, just caulk the window shut for the winter.
. This is the second part of my problem. We live in Iowa, and it's below freezing here for about 3 months of the year, with temps frequently below 0 F. I have cold hardy breeds (Rhode Is Reds, Plymouth Rocks, and Buff Orpingtons), but I don't want the girls to be freezing out there.
As long as you keep the coop air DRY and no drafts on the chickens, they should be good. If you think it's getting too cold, there are a variety of things you can do about it. LOTS of people have chickens in colder climates than yours, and they survive
As long as you keep the coop air DRY and no drafts on the chickens, they should be good. If you think it's getting too cold, there are a variety of things you can do about it. LOTS of people have chickens in colder climates than yours, and they survive
Is it wise to have a raised coop in a cold-winter climate? The coop design I'm liking would have about 2 feet beneath the floor, but I'm worried having that cold air underneath in the winter will make the coop get too cold. Should I just build it with the floor frame resting directly on the ground?
Personally, choosing just on what'd be ideal, I'd go with the coop directly on the ground. This will require more extensive predatorproofing, and requires a TRULY flood-free site (like, not gonna flood in the spring thaw either). But will give you slightly warmer chickens, all other things being equal -- the difference will be greater the bigger the coop is.
OTOH you can stack haybales around the edges of a raised coop (although if you do that, it is riskier to allow the chickens access under the coop, which is one main benefit *of* a raised coop) and just build it more thermally efficiently and the chickens get a few degrees colder but oh well. I'm certainly not going to say 'for goodness' sake don't build a raised coop'
, just it would not be my first choice.
Personally, choosing just on what'd be ideal, I'd go with the coop directly on the ground. This will require more extensive predatorproofing, and requires a TRULY flood-free site (like, not gonna flood in the spring thaw either). But will give you slightly warmer chickens, all other things being equal -- the difference will be greater the bigger the coop is.
OTOH you can stack haybales around the edges of a raised coop (although if you do that, it is riskier to allow the chickens access under the coop, which is one main benefit *of* a raised coop) and just build it more thermally efficiently and the chickens get a few degrees colder but oh well. I'm certainly not going to say 'for goodness' sake don't build a raised coop'
I was thinking of using corrugated polycarbonate sheeting for the roof, like Suntuf, to increase the sun exposure in the coop, but I wonder if these would leach out the heat in the winter? I also wonder if they would make the coop too hot in the summer?
No, your worries are 100% on the mark, you don't wanna do the clear roof panel thing. First because Iowa gets fairly warm in the summer <vbg> and a clear roof, or clear panels in the roof, would make your coop an oven; and secondly because you will get severe condensate (thus, coop humidity problems) with an uninsulated thin roof like that in wintertime.
What you want is a conventional roof, be it shingled or metal (if it is metal it pretty much *needs* to be insulated underneath; insulating under a shingled roof is also a good idea in cold climates, as it will help the coop retain heat). And regular windows. That will provide plenty of sunshine for your flock. Plus of course when they are *outdoors*, there's the sun <g>.
Make sure you build suitable ventilation into your coop. I have a page on it (see link in .sig below), but readers digest version is I would suggest good-sized ventilation openings, like 6-12" high and most of the length of each wall, high atop most or all your walls, with flaps or sliders to close them down as needed. PLUS you will want your windows to be openable, and if they are small relative to coop area you might want an additional panel that can be opened up for summer ventilation too.
Another thing to consider would be whether you can create a partially enclosed (at least windbreaks, possibly even a roof) run or portion thereof, so that it is more appealing for the birds to spend as much time as possible outdoors during winter weather.
No, your worries are 100% on the mark, you don't wanna do the clear roof panel thing. First because Iowa gets fairly warm in the summer <vbg> and a clear roof, or clear panels in the roof, would make your coop an oven; and secondly because you will get severe condensate (thus, coop humidity problems) with an uninsulated thin roof like that in wintertime.
What you want is a conventional roof, be it shingled or metal (if it is metal it pretty much *needs* to be insulated underneath; insulating under a shingled roof is also a good idea in cold climates, as it will help the coop retain heat). And regular windows. That will provide plenty of sunshine for your flock. Plus of course when they are *outdoors*, there's the sun <g>.
Make sure you build suitable ventilation into your coop. I have a page on it (see link in .sig below), but readers digest version is I would suggest good-sized ventilation openings, like 6-12" high and most of the length of each wall, high atop most or all your walls, with flaps or sliders to close them down as needed. PLUS you will want your windows to be openable, and if they are small relative to coop area you might want an additional panel that can be opened up for summer ventilation too.
Another thing to consider would be whether you can create a partially enclosed (at least windbreaks, possibly even a roof) run or portion thereof, so that it is more appealing for the birds to spend as much time as possible outdoors during winter weather.
Y'all have probably seen this solar heater (I found the link on this site, but I don't remember where) http://www.instructables.com/id/Solar-Heater/ I was thinking of putting this guy on the southside of my coop for the winter. My question is, and no one may know, but can I just install it over the windows? Will it still heat/convect effectively?
There is a whole thread, possibly more than one, on that design -- search on the url or on 'pop can solar heater' or something like that to find it.
I believe it should do some real good. I don't have the popcan design, but I do have a 4x7-footprint lean-to run on the front of my chicken building that I cover with clear plastic for the winter. On a sunny day this time of year, opening the pophole door and the window into the coop from the run will boost the building's temperature 8 C or more during the day if the building is otherwise closed up, or 4-5 C if the Sussex's pophole is open to their run (the benefit is much lower on, say, Dec 21 with such a low brief sun). And this is just one small lean-to heating a 15x40 building.
I would say the pop can design is definitely worth trying, if you feel so inclined. (It is not *necessary* as such, though, provided your coop is otherwise intelligently designed). I would not install the pop can design over the windows (if I understand what you mean), because it would block out all light through that window, and also there are design considerations for efficient function. You want the popcan heater to be as tall as possible consistant with the upper opening still being a little lower than the ceiling of the coop. So the bottom hole should be just above floor level (just high enough to ensure it doesn't get blocked with bedding) and I'd put the upper opening as high as possible, up to a foot below the indoor ceiling level. If that makes sense?
You will have to work out a system to prevent it from running in reverse during nighttime or cold cloudy days, however... you don't want it sucking warm ceiling air, cooling it, and depositing cold air into the coop at floor level. THere are several ways to do this but in a cold climate all are likely to involve some degree of you going out and doing this in the morning and late afternoon. (It is possible to fully mechanize it, but only if you really like fiddling with that sort of thing).
Have fun, good luck, welcome to byc,
Pat
There is a whole thread, possibly more than one, on that design -- search on the url or on 'pop can solar heater' or something like that to find it.
I believe it should do some real good. I don't have the popcan design, but I do have a 4x7-footprint lean-to run on the front of my chicken building that I cover with clear plastic for the winter. On a sunny day this time of year, opening the pophole door and the window into the coop from the run will boost the building's temperature 8 C or more during the day if the building is otherwise closed up, or 4-5 C if the Sussex's pophole is open to their run (the benefit is much lower on, say, Dec 21 with such a low brief sun). And this is just one small lean-to heating a 15x40 building.
I would say the pop can design is definitely worth trying, if you feel so inclined. (It is not *necessary* as such, though, provided your coop is otherwise intelligently designed). I would not install the pop can design over the windows (if I understand what you mean), because it would block out all light through that window, and also there are design considerations for efficient function. You want the popcan heater to be as tall as possible consistant with the upper opening still being a little lower than the ceiling of the coop. So the bottom hole should be just above floor level (just high enough to ensure it doesn't get blocked with bedding) and I'd put the upper opening as high as possible, up to a foot below the indoor ceiling level. If that makes sense?
You will have to work out a system to prevent it from running in reverse during nighttime or cold cloudy days, however... you don't want it sucking warm ceiling air, cooling it, and depositing cold air into the coop at floor level. THere are several ways to do this but in a cold climate all are likely to involve some degree of you going out and doing this in the morning and late afternoon. (It is possible to fully mechanize it, but only if you really like fiddling with that sort of thing).
Have fun, good luck, welcome to byc,
Pat
