coop design questions

[junior67]

Yes. Go with big roof overhangs(~12")...on gable ends too, to protect that winter ventilation.

ok so have them go 12" past the walls on all sides? Thanks this is exactly the information I was looking for! I don't want to have to go back and have my husband make changes after it is all done.

 

[aart]

ok so have them go 12" past the walls on all sides? Thanks this is exactly the information I was looking for! I don't want to have to go back and have my husband make changes after it is all done.

Yes.

 

[aart]

If 8 is the max number you're going to get, a single roost running across the 8' width would be fine, or two running across 4' width.

Maybe less in your climate, unless your run is weather proofed for winter.

 

[junior67]

Maybe less in your climate, unless your run is weather proofed for winter.

the run is going to be roofed as well and I have read you can put up plastic on a few sides to help in the winter so it should be weatherproof.

Another question I want to do an automatic coop door as well. We are going to have standard Brahma's and Cochins. What size should the door be?

 

[aart]

Another question I want to do an automatic coop door as well. We are going to have standard Brahma's and Cochins. What size should the door be?

I don't know anything about auto-doors...don't have or need one.
My pop doors are 14 x 18, one has a DIY auto-lock deal so opening is only 14" high.

 

[U_Stormcrow]

Brahmas are big birds (eventually). Cochin aren't small, either. Before you go too much further, I suggest you give some thought (space permitting) to increasing the coop size to 8x8 - fewer cuts, not much more lumber - and pushing the run out to 8x12.

Much easier to do now than to redo later.

Otherwise, as Aart and others have said, big roof overhangs, soffit venting, and put your external nest box on a side that doesn't have the roof directing rain onto it (one of your currently 4' sides). I prefer side open boxes, about shoulder height - you can look right in, and reach in easily to gather eggs.

 

[AmeliaBedelia]

I would also consider making the coop a bit taller so that you can enter it more easily if needed. You may need to make repairs, grab a hen off a perch to check on an injury, etc. You don't want to have to crawl around on the poopy floor. Totally up to you, but I much prefer walk-in coops.

 

[junior67]

Brahmas are big birds (eventually). Cochin aren't small, either. Before you go too much further, I suggest you give some thought (space permitting) to increasing the coop size to 8x8 - fewer cuts, not much more lumber - and pushing the run out to 8x12.

Much easier to do now than to redo later.

Otherwise, as Aart and others have said, big roof overhangs, soffit venting, and put your external nest box on a side that doesn't have the roof directing rain onto it (one of your currently 4' sides). I prefer side open boxes, about shoulder height - you can look right in, and reach in easily to gather eggs.

I can try to convince my husband for an 8x8 coop. But would think about the same cuts as 4x8 as that is the size of plywood so wouldn't have to cut that at all with a 4x8 coop. I already shocked him with 8 chickens after he said we should get chickens (in his head he was thinking 4 but I wanted certain breeds so got 8. haahaa) and the size of the coop. I had thought of making it a bit bigger. Oh I was planning on having the coop about 2' off the ground and making it so under it as part of the run. would an 8x8 be too heavy to do that? Run I had already debated on making bigger but need to figure out exactly where we are putting it in the yard. We had a spot we were going to put it (where our current shed is that is falling apart and we are taking down and moving) but then it would face away from the house and I don't want that. so now need to talk to him about a different section to put it in or just putting it facing the other way....... Once the snow is gone we can get out there and measure and plan exactly where and get to clearing and building since we only have till sometime in May to get it built by as my chicks come April 8/9th!

 

[U_Stormcrow]

I can try to convince my husband for an 8x8 coop. But would think about the same cuts as 4x8 as that is the size of plywood so wouldn't have to cut that at all with a 4x8 coop. I already shocked him with 8 chickens after he said we should get chickens (in his head he was thinking 4 but I wanted certain breeds so got 8. haahaa) and the size of the coop. I had thought of making it a bit bigger. Oh I was planning on having the coop about 2' off the ground and making it so under it as part of the run. would an 8x8 be too heavy to do that? Run I had already debated on making bigger but need to figure out exactly where we are putting it in the yard. We had a spot we were going to put it (where our current shed is that is falling apart and we are taking down and moving) but then it would face away from the house and I don't want that. so now need to talk to him about a different section to put it in or just putting it facing the other way....... Once the snow is gone we can get out there and measure and plan exactly where and get to clearing and building since we only have till sometime in May to get it built by as my chicks come April 8/9th!

I have a raised coop that's 8x12, supported 3' off the ground on some 4x4s. I have ducks, they nest on the ground, so the "under" is their spot. Its a 4x8 sheet a 4x4 sheet and a 4x8 sheet for the floor, in the shape of a "U" so I can walk in, and nothing is more than 4' away (ok, corners are closer to 5' - but still easy to roll in a wheelbarrow, and rakie in the spent bedding)

That said, I sometimes have to gather duck eggs from under the house (daily, in fact), and 3' isn't comfortable if you have to get on hands and knees - as I do. Its a mistake i won't be making in the new coop (10x16) I'm building. 2' off the ground basically ensures you won't be able to get at anything under the house - even reaching in with a rake becomes uncomfortable, due to the shallow angle to reach the center. In my view, its wasted space. Better to take the coop all the way to the dirt, and use the ground as flooring.

Yes, you need to use slightly more expensive lumber at ground contact, but everything else about the build goes easier, it allows a walk in design (which IS nice), you can use deep litter/cold composting (which I favor), and you don't need lumber for a floor, which saves on both plywood and framing up joists.

 

[junior67]

I have a raised coop that's 8x12, supported 3' off the ground on some 4x4s. I have ducks, they nest on the ground, so the "under" is their spot. Its a 4x8 sheet a 4x4 sheet and a 4x8 sheet for the floor, in the shape of a "U" so I can walk in, and nothing is more than 4' away (ok, corners are closer to 5' - but still easy to roll in a wheelbarrow, and rakie in the spent bedding)

That said, I sometimes have to gather duck eggs from under the house (daily, in fact), and 3' isn't comfortable if you have to get on hands and knees - as I do. Its a mistake i won't be making in the new coop (10x16) I'm building. 2' off the ground basically ensures you won't be able to get at anything under the house - even reaching in with a rake becomes uncomfortable, due to the shallow angle to reach the center. In my view, its wasted space. Better to take the coop all the way to the dirt, and use the ground as flooring.

Yes, you need to use slightly more expensive lumber at ground contact, but everything else about the build goes easier, it allows a walk in design (which IS nice), you can use deep litter/cold composting (which I favor), and you don't need lumber for a floor, which saves on both plywood and framing up joists.

Thank you for all the info. Will talk to my husband and see what he thinks. guess saving on floor will help cover the cost of extra for size. We are using some of the wood from the old shed that isn't rotted so that will help too. it is mainly the floor and maybe 6-12" up the walls that is rotted for that. I would say we could just convert that but there is 0 ventilation in it so will be harder to fix that then to just tear down and rebuild a new one.