I'm having trouble coming up with an adequate latch for my coop's human door. It's a wood converted playhouse, and the door is mounted on the outside, so that it's not flush with the doorjamb. It sticks out about 1 3/4 inches. Plus the door - there are upper and lower windows in it - and the frame are kinda narrow. What kind of latch can I use that's pred-proof, but doesn't have to lie flat? Right now I have 2 hook-and-eyes, with the little springy-pullback things. I know this isn't raccoon proof, so for the time being, I am wedging a 2 x 4 between the bottom of the door and the edge of the "porch". Any suggestions? Thanks! BTW This will be my gals' first night out!
could you get a loop & hinge (the kind with the slot cut in it that fits over the loop, then you put a padlock or combination lock through the loop so the flat/slotted part can't be pulled open), then bend the flat slotted part to fit after screwing it to the door frame?
Hmm, that's a thought. I bought one of the ones that fits over a knob that turns, and has to be opened with a key, but to bend it would make it not line up enough to fit together. But the kind you're suggesting wouldn't have to be as exact a fit. I'll try it! Back to Home Depot, for the majillionth time....... Thanks
What about a kiwi latch? Those are often used for pasture gates so nothing has to really line up. In pictures, they look very easy to unhook, but there's a piece you have to either flip up or down in order to take the latch out of the ring or staple. Check out www.kvequine.com and look for Gate Latch w/Chain (very original name).
Don't waste your time at Home Depot. Go to a hardware store or a good lumberyard like Hamshaw Lbr. in Keene. They have much better choices for hardware than HD. Both are my customers so I know of whereof I speak.
Simplest way I can think of is to take a small piece of wood the thickness of your door and screw it to the non-hinge side into the door where you would want a latch to go into (to bring it up the the same thickness-depth of the door). In other words, if you use something called a barrel latch (think that's what it's called) it would then slide easily into the locking part because they're at the same level. There's something called a hasp that's a quick way to close and "lock" a door as well. But if you just elevate the side where the receiving end of the lock is, you won't have to spend a lot on a fancy hinge type lock. Good luck!
Meant to add if you look at my BYC page, you'll see that I achieved something like by framing my door which brough the receiving side to the same depth as the door - hope that makes sense!
