Coop help please :)

[scootermagoo]

We are in the process of converting a portion of a decent sized shed into a coop. The whole shed is about 25x25, but we have partitioned a space that is 7x20 specifically for the peepers.
The floor is concrete, so I'm not concerned about predators burying their way under. We used this gun type device (brainfarting on the name of it right now) to secure 2x4s to the concrete along the perimeter of the partitioned section with OSB layed the short way (4ft tall) along the long side, and tall way (8ft) along the short side so we can put a people sized door. Between the OSB and the rafters we have field fencing 2inx2in, so essentially it is like a weird horse stall. Also put OSB above the rafters, because we have a quasi-feral cat that lives in the other half of the shed.
The chicken side has a window for light that we will probably be replacing with one that opens for the summer-and will put hardware cloth over that as well.

The birds will be pastured/free-ranged (seems people use those interchangeably) and cooped up at night. The farmer that we bought from said that coyotes and mink are the major problems he'd run into before...we have a lot of evergreen windbreak trees for cover from aerial predators right outside the place where we will be putting in the chicken door.

Getting to the point where I'm thinking about roosts and nest box placement. Would the shorter side be better for roosts, or the longer? Hubby wants to put in a swing down door on the long side for nest boxes/egg collection. What height seems to work best for nest boxes for you?

What are your ideas for easy/cheap nest boxes that your birds seem to like? If we build them out of extra wood, any input on size/ect?

Roosts- We have some old ash trees with thick branches that I would rather just cut some and use, rather than spending more money on wood. How thick should the branches be for them to be comfortable?

After we get "dispatch" the extra boys, we will have 8-10 layers and keep our favorite Roo. How many laying hens would fit comfortably in the 7x20 space as they will be let out all day? Not saying we will get more immediately....but...ya know

 

[Ridgerunner]

The birds will be pastured/free-ranged (seems people use those interchangeably) and cooped up at night.

Those terms can mean different things to different people. I take it that they have a lot or room when they can get outside and can forage for some of their food. Sounds nice.

Would the shorter side be better for roosts, or the longer?

Chickens don't care, make it convenient for you. That generally means they go on the opposite side to the door so they are out of your way when you walk in.

What height seems to work best for nest boxes for you?

I'm not going to give you hard and fast answers, we do nests differently. Some people set a box on the floor so it won't tip over when hen perches on it, puts bedding in it, and calls it a nest. Others hang them up so they can get the eggs without bending over, might be important if you have a bad back. Mine are about 2' and 3-1/2' off the floor. The hens use them all.

What are your ideas for easy/cheap nest boxes that your birds seem to like? If we build them out of extra wood, any input on size/ect?

Here are a couple of old threads that show what some of us have done. Unfortunately a lot of the photo links have been lost but a lot still remain. You will see where someone used a kitchen sink. Others use furniture, like book shelves. You can maybe get free 4 or 5 gallon buckets at a deli or bakery. Milk crates, cat litter bins, or plastic bins are popular. A lot of us build them out of scrap wood, some of those can look interesting. Some people will give you rules that you have to build nests a certain way. If you look through these threads you will see that isn't so.

A generally recommended minimum size is 12" x 12" x 12" although i have used a cat litter bucket that had a top measurement of 7-1/2" x 11-1/2". That worked for laying but was not good for a hen to hatch chicks in, too small. I made the ones I built 16" x 16" x 16". My stud spacing was 16" so framing was easy plus if you cut a 4' or 8' piece of wood into 16" lengths or widths you come out even no waste except for what you don't use.

Another general recommendation is one nest for every four hens f they are the minimum size. So for what you describe I'd start with three with room to add more later if you need to. Now the links

Nest boxes

http://www.backyardchickens.com/t/41108/show-us-your-nest-boxes-ingenous-design-post-it-here/220

Nest Boxes

http://www.backyardchickens.com/t/4...-your-creative-nesting-boxes/80#post_12395882

Roosts- We have some old ash trees with thick branches that I would rather just cut some and use, rather than spending more money on wood. How thick should the branches be for them to be comfortable?

You can start some really good arguments on here with that question. Some people strongly feel you don't love your chickens if you don't give them the flat side of a 2x4 to roost on. Others feel you are being cruel and abusive if you don't give them something round to roost on. Some feel their feet will get frostbite if they are not on a flat surface so their feathers can cover the feet, while some of us have seen the feet disappear under the feathers when they squat down and fluff up on the roosts even when they are roosting on something relatively small. Don't get me wrong, it is a great question but don't be surprised if you get differing opinions. I've experimented with this some, in my opinion people care about this a lot more than the chickens do. Yes, on yet another topic the chicken just don't care nearly as much as people do.

I use tree branches and a 2x4 on edge. The width of a 2x4 on edge is 1-1/2". That's also the smallest diameter on one end of my tree branches. The other end of the tree branches are probably 4" diameter. These work for full sized chickens.

After we get "dispatch" the extra boys, we will have 8-10 layers and keep our favorite Roo. How many laying hens would fit comfortably in the 7x20 space as they will be let out all day? Not saying we will get more immediately....but...ya know

To me that is not a really easy question to answer. You can follow the link in my signature below to see some to the things I consider important in how much room you need.

I don't look at the coop in isolation but consider it part of your space system. In your climate they could get stuck inside the coop section for several days on end without being able to go outside so maybe it is just the coop. If they can get into the rest of that barn during the day then you have a lot more space available even in a blizzard. If you integrate new chickens or raise them with the flock you meed more room.

There are different aspects to it too. Most people like to just think about the chickens. The tighter you pack them the more likely you are to have behavioral problems. That basically means that they can try to harm, kill, or eat each other. There is no specific square feet per bird that will either cause or prevent that. You will see a lot of people use 4 square feet per bird in the coop, others use 3 square feet per bird, some people use those numbers but include a 10 square feet per bird in the run requirement. If your chickens are all the same age and get along well, most people can do well with those 4 and 10 numbers as far as behavior go, it can be overkill for some people. But occasionally for some it doesn't work.

Another aspect of space is that the tighter they are packed the harder you have to work. One example is the poop. Chickens poop a lot, even at night when they are on the roosts so it can pile up under the roosts. You will probably be dealing with that anyway. But if they are in a small space walking around it can pile up there too and will need to be managed. Oh, the joys of chicken ownership, you get to manage chicken poop. To me that should be done as seldom as possible.

To me a very important aspect is that the tighter they are packed the less flexibility you have to handle issues that come up. Say a fox starts picking off a chicken a day. What do yo do? Will you have enough room to leave them locked up in safety until you deal with that fox. Or say you need to build something to handle a problem in the coop. The tighter they are packed the harder it is to find room to build it. One of my themes is that you are important in this equation, plan for your convenience and your chickens will benefit from that.

When I was in Northwest Arkansas, which has a milder, less snowy climate than you probably do but colder than down here, I had an 8' x 12' coop main coop, two 4' x 8' coops I could put chickens in, a 12' x 32' main run, and an area maybe 45' x 65' inside electric netting. Mine could be outside practically every day of the year, occasional snow or a strong cold wind presented problems. My main laying/breeding flock I overwintered was one rooster and between 6 to 8 hens. But during the summer I might have over 50 chickens at one time, most of them chicks or adolescents of various sizes growing to butcher size. If I'd had that many in winter I would have been in trouble. To me it is not a certain fixed square feet per bird number no matter what, there are a lot of variables to consider. Will your 7' x 20' coop handle a rooster and 10 hens? Yes it should easily. They'd probably be OK without any time outside. How many more can it handle, I don't know, it depends.

 

[Folly's place]

Another point to consider; 2"x2" fencing will NOT keep weasels, rats, or mice out of your coop. Plan on having no openings anywhere larger than 1/2" diameter; that means hardware cloth!
Mary

 

[Folly's place]

Also, have at least a 6" lip at the door, so bedding won't be coming out of the coop space constantly. I have 4"x6" sills at the doors for that purpose.
My nest boxes are those plastic 'egg crates' next to each other on a shelf, with a 4" board in front to keep bedding in, and a slanted wood roof to prevent roosting on it. They are about 24" off the floor, so there's usable floor space below.
Mary

 

[scootermagoo]

The birds will be pastured/free-ranged (seems people use those interchangeably) and cooped up at night.

Those terms can mean different things to different people. I take it that they have a lot or room when they can get outside and can forage for some of their food. Sounds nice.

Would the shorter side be better for roosts, or the longer?

Chickens don't care, make it convenient for you. That generally means they go on the opposite side to the door so they are out of your way when you walk in.

What height seems to work best for nest boxes for you?

I'm not going to give you hard and fast answers, we do nests differently. Some people set a box on the floor so it won't tip over when hen perches on it, puts bedding in it, and calls it a nest. Others hang them up so they can get the eggs without bending over, might be important if you have a bad back. Mine are about 2' and 3-1/2' off the floor. The hens use them all.

What are your ideas for easy/cheap nest boxes that your birds seem to like? If we build them out of extra wood, any input on size/ect?

Here are a couple of old threads that show what some of us have done. Unfortunately a lot of the photo links have been lost but a lot still remain. You will see where someone used a kitchen sink. Others use furniture, like book shelves. You can maybe get free 4 or 5 gallon buckets at a deli or bakery. Milk crates, cat litter bins, or plastic bins are popular. A lot of us build them out of scrap wood, some of those can look interesting. Some people will give you rules that you have to build nests a certain way. If you look through these threads you will see that isn't so.

A generally recommended minimum size is 12" x 12" x 12" although i have used a cat litter bucket that had a top measurement of 7-1/2" x 11-1/2". That worked for laying but was not good for a hen to hatch chicks in, too small. I made the ones I built 16" x 16" x 16". My stud spacing was 16" so framing was easy plus if you cut a 4' or 8' piece of wood into 16" lengths or widths you come out even no waste except for what you don't use.

Another general recommendation is one nest for every four hens f they are the minimum size. So for what you describe I'd start with three with room to add more later if you need to. Now the links

Nest boxes

http://www.backyardchickens.com/t/41108/show-us-your-nest-boxes-ingenous-design-post-it-here/220

Nest Boxes

http://www.backyardchickens.com/t/4...-your-creative-nesting-boxes/80#post_12395882

Roosts- We have some old ash trees with thick branches that I would rather just cut some and use, rather than spending more money on wood. How thick should the branches be for them to be comfortable?

You can start some really good arguments on here with that question. Some people strongly feel you don't love your chickens if you don't give them the flat side of a 2x4 to roost on. Others feel you are being cruel and abusive if you don't give them something round to roost on. Some feel their feet will get frostbite if they are not on a flat surface so their feathers can cover the feet, while some of us have seen the feet disappear under the feathers when they squat down and fluff up on the roosts even when they are roosting on something relatively small. Don't get me wrong, it is a great question but don't be surprised if you get differing opinions. I've experimented with this some, in my opinion people care about this a lot more than the chickens do. Yes, on yet another topic the chicken just don't care nearly as much as people do.

I use tree branches and a 2x4 on edge. The width of a 2x4 on edge is 1-1/2". That's also the smallest diameter on one end of my tree branches. The other end of the tree branches are probably 4" diameter. These work for full sized chickens.

After we get "dispatch" the extra boys, we will have 8-10 layers and keep our favorite Roo. How many laying hens would fit comfortably in the 7x20 space as they will be let out all day? Not saying we will get more immediately....but...ya know

To me that is not a really easy question to answer. You can follow the link in my signature below to see some to the things I consider important in how much room you need.

I don't look at the coop in isolation but consider it part of your space system. In your climate they could get stuck inside the coop section for several days on end without being able to go outside so maybe it is just the coop. If they can get into the rest of that barn during the day then you have a lot more space available even in a blizzard. If you integrate new chickens or raise them with the flock you meed more room.

There are different aspects to it too. Most people like to just think about the chickens. The tighter you pack them the more likely you are to have behavioral problems. That basically means that they can try to harm, kill, or eat each other. There is no specific square feet per bird that will either cause or prevent that. You will see a lot of people use 4 square feet per bird in the coop, others use 3 square feet per bird, some people use those numbers but include a 10 square feet per bird in the run requirement. If your chickens are all the same age and get along well, most people can do well with those 4 and 10 numbers as far as behavior go, it can be overkill for some people. But occasionally for some it doesn't work.

Another aspect of space is that the tighter they are packed the harder you have to work. One example is the poop. Chickens poop a lot, even at night when they are on the roosts so it can pile up under the roosts. You will probably be dealing with that anyway. But if they are in a small space walking around it can pile up there too and will need to be managed. Oh, the joys of chicken ownership, you get to manage chicken poop. To me that should be done as seldom as possible.

To me a very important aspect is that the tighter they are packed the less flexibility you have to handle issues that come up. Say a fox starts picking off a chicken a day. What do yo do? Will you have enough room to leave them locked up in safety until you deal with that fox. Or say you need to build something to handle a problem in the coop. The tighter they are packed the harder it is to find room to build it. One of my themes is that you are important in this equation, plan for your convenience and your chickens will benefit from that.

When I was in Northwest Arkansas, which has a milder, less snowy climate than you probably do but colder than down here, I had an 8' x 12' coop main coop, two 4' x 8' coops I could put chickens in, a 12' x 32' main run, and an area maybe 45' x 65' inside electric netting. Mine could be outside practically every day of the year, occasional snow or a strong cold wind presented problems. My main laying/breeding flock I overwintered was one rooster and between 6 to 8 hens. But during the summer I might have over 50 chickens at one time, most of them chicks or adolescents of various sizes growing to butcher size. If I'd had that many in winter I would have been in trouble. To me it is not a certain fixed square feet per bird number no matter what, there are a lot of variables to consider. Will your 7' x 20' coop handle a rooster and 10 hens? Yes it should easily. They'd probably be OK without any time outside. How many more can it handle, I don't know, it depends.

Thank you so much for your INCREDIBLY well thought out and thorough response!

Yes, the weather is GROSS out here in the winter...right now it's 7 degrees outside and we have spots with 6ft snow drifts. Yuck. The sectioned off part is just to keep them secure at night, and they will have access to the other side in bad weather as well to spread out. We also have a large Morton barn that if we need to separate/move things about we can. Also a smaller chicken tractor, and the small coop from our old house.

I love the idea of the branches with 2x4's on the end! I'm pretty sure we will end up doing a mix of branches and leftover 2x4s and see which they prefer. Like you stated, I'm pretty sure the chickens care way less than we humans do

Thank you for the links to the nesting box ideas...when I have a longer minute I will definitely go through and read those.

 

[scootermagoo]

Also, have at least a 6" lip at the door, so bedding won't be coming out of the coop space constantly. I have 4"x6" sills at the doors for that purpose.
My nest boxes are those plastic 'egg crates' next to each other on a shelf, with a 4" board in front to keep bedding in, and a slanted wood roof to prevent roosting on it. They are about 24" off the floor, so there's usable floor space below.
Mary

We have the "lip" you're talking about with the bedding-the way the 2x4's are screwed into the concrete with the OSB creates a good tight seal around the outside where losing bedding won't be a problem. The "shed" is actually an old hay storage barn, modified to a 2 car detached garage during "modern times", where the siding is lifted off the ground with cinderblock type things. The whole thing is sealed incredibly well to the outside along the bottom...there's no way anything could dig its way to the inside...that was my biggest concern as well Thank you for the measurements on your boxes...the lip on those makes a lot of sense to keep everything contained.

Also, thank you for the hardware cloth suggestion. I was hoping with the bottom being sealed up so well that the mink wouldn't be able to climb straight OSB for 4 ft...but probably better safe than sorry.

 

[aart]

This how I did 'coop inside a large shed':
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/aarts-coop-page.65912/

Would love to see pics of yours!
Welcome to BYC!
Thanks for adding your location