Coop Nest Box Lid Repair

[Olivess]

Hi everyone. We've got one of those "Amish made" chicken coops that comes premade and dropped off via a trailer.

It has been great. But over the years with the rain falling on the nest box lid the wood is starting to rot.

Has anyone tried to replace the lid before on a similar design, and how did they go about?

The lid looks like ship-lap, but it is some sort of plywood or composite. I'm not sure where I could source something like that.

Thanks!

 

[DobieLover]

The lid looks like ship-lap, but it is some sort of plywood or composite.

It's probably T1-11. It's not good for roofing material and needs to be kept up with exterior grade paint or stain when used as siding.
You could go over it with polycarbonate or metal roofing. Just make sure you use sealing roofing screws that aren't so long they penetrate through to the inside. You would need a support strip at the top and bottom of the lid and screw through the ridges, not the valleys.

 

[Mother of Chaos]

It's probably T1-11. It's not good for roofing material and needs to be kept up with exterior grade paint or stain when used as siding.
You could go over it with polycarbonate or metal roofing. Just make sure you use sealing roofing screws that aren't so long they penetrate through to the inside. You would need a support strip at the top and bottom of the lid and screw through the ridges, not the valleys.

Would this type of construction avoid the leaking problems that are often seen with top-opening nest boxes?

I know that the alternative is front-opening, which is more easily protected from rain, but my lower back prefers the top-opening option.

 

[Laurasb65]

When I had this type. I sealed the wood then put on roofing material, it was like a rubber peice, i had it where part of the rubber went up the side of coop about 3 inches, I glued that part so no water would run between the lid and the coop wall, then put shingles over that on the lid.

 

[DobieLover]

Would this type of construction avoid the leaking problems that are often seen with top-opening nest boxes?

Not really. The problem is the way they are never flashed. If there isn't flexible flashing that runs behind the siding then over the top of the lid, rain can run down the siding and into the hinge joint. That is why I would only have a front drop down nest box with a few inches of overhang to keep the water from wicking back towards the door.

 

[Olivess]

Thanks for the responses.

I'm wondering if I should replace the T1-11 with a fresh sheet before I add the metal roofing. The existing T1-11 is pretty bad at least in the right hand corner. Though I suppose it will get covered up. Also I lacks the means to cut the sheet lengthwise at a 45 degree angle like the current piece is where it meets the main body of the coop and slides under the trim piece where the hinges are mounted.

 

[perkolator]

Thanks for the responses.

I'm wondering if I should replace the T1-11 with a fresh sheet before I add the metal roofing. The existing T1-11 is pretty bad at least in the right hand corner. Though I suppose it will get covered up. Also I lacks the means to cut the sheet lengthwise at a 45 degree angle like the current piece is where it meets the main body of the coop and slides under the trim piece where the hinges are mounted.

If you're covering over this with metal roofing, I would probably leave the original panel, and just add 2-3 furring strips across it lengthwise, for more structure to attach the roofing. The strips will also help out that weakened corner. If you get water leaks, consider adding in flashing along the top edge before the roof panels, and seal the edge on the coop wall underneath that strip of wood or add a new one over the top and caulk/paint.

 

[Olivess]

Okay, thanks! I will give it a try. I'm hoping the overhang above is enough that I don't have to worry about flashing. I never had a problem before.

 

[Olivess]

It's probably T1-11. It's not good for roofing material and needs to be kept up with exterior grade paint or stain when used as siding.
You could go over it with polycarbonate or metal roofing. Just make sure you use sealing roofing screws that aren't so long they penetrate through to the inside. You would need a support strip at the top and bottom of the lid and screw through the ridges, not the valleys.

I mean to ask why through the ridges?

 

[perkolator]

I mean to ask why through the ridges?

Roof and its fasteners will expand and contract over time in weather like everything does, and may not be a 100% water tight seal despite rubber grommets. Placing fasteners on top of the ridges keeps it out of the path of water. If they sit in the channel where the water flows, the screw heads create mini dams/blockages that hold water (and debris collection that holds even more water), and thus promotes leaks that can be avoided by fastener placement on installation. Hope this makes sense