d for ducksbread

Discussion in 'Ducks' started by ilroost, Sep 23, 2007.

  1. ilroost

    ilroost Chillin' With My Peeps

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    Jan 14, 2007
    weldon il.
    i think i read somewhere that bread was not good for ducks, does anyone know if this is true and if it is why ? my muscovies love it and i get it free at the outlet store every sunday. thanks bob
     
  2. silkiechicken

    silkiechicken Staff PhD Premium Member

    They say bread is bad for them because it is like candy full of just carbs and not much else. In moderation it is fine.
     
  3. DuckLady

    DuckLady ~~~Administrator~~~BYC Store Support Staff Member

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    Jan 11, 2007
    Washington State
    Bread is full of nothing nutritional for ducks. They fill up on it and then don't eat their feed which is formulated for their specific needs.

    It is like eating candy or iceberg lettuce all the time. You are full, you enjoyed your meal, but you are malnourished.

    There is a lot of info here
    http://www.duckrescuenetwork.org/duck_care.html

    Copied from that link
    HEALTHY DIETS
    For those who keep flocks of domestic ducks, good nutrition is crucial to keeping your ducks healthy. All ducks should be fed a pellet or crumble diet formulated to meet their specific nutritional needs. Follow the guidelines below to find the right food for your duck(s). It is preferable to feed a diet created specifically for waterfowl, such as Mazuri feeds (made by Purina). If your local feed store doesn't carry this brand, ask them to order it for you. Nutrena Waterfowl is an alternate brand.

    Ducklings and adolescent ducks: Young ducklings grow very quickly and need food that is high in protein and calories. For the first 3 weeks of life, feed a starter diet that is 18-20% protein. Make sure the pellets are small enough for ducklings to eat (about 1/8”), or use crumble. From the fourth through the 13th week, switch to a maintenance diet with 14% protein. After the 14th week, females should be switched to a layer pellet or crumble diet.

    Drakes and non-laying ducks: Drakes and ducks that are not producing eggs should be fed a maintenance diet that is 14% protein. While a laying ration is critical to the health of laying ducks, this diet is too high in calcium and protein for non-laying ducks. Switch your ducks to a maintenance diet when they stop laying eggs (usually in the fall).

    Laying ducks: Due to the large number of eggs they can produce (many more than wild birds do), laying ducks have very high requirements for calcium and protein, and must be fed a layer or breeder diet. Laying diets for ducks are typically 16-17 per cent protein and higher in calcium than are maintenance diets.

    Treats: Treats should be given in small amounts. Although many ducks love foods like corn, carrots, and greens, these foods do not meet all of your ducks' nutritional needs, and should comprise no more than 5-10 per cent of the diet. Allowing your duck to graze in your yard is fine providing that your yard is pesticide-free.

    Grit: Ducks that have access to dirt will pick up small stones on their own and don't need supplemental grit offered. If your ducks are kept in enclosures without access to dirt, sprinkle a small amount of grit on their food once a week.

    Oyster Shell: Oyster shell is not usually necessary if your laying ducks are on a good quality-laying ration. If despite a good diet your ducks are laying pitted or thin-shelled eggs, you may choose to supplement the laying diet with crushed oyster shell.

    What not to feed: Do not offer medicated feeds designed for other species, as these can be toxic to ducks. Do not feed oyster shell to non-laying ducks or to drakes, as this can lead to kidney disease. Do not feed moldy or insect-ridden foods.

    courtesy www.duckrescue.org
     

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