Day 21--are these goners? Pics

[RedMoxie]

While the ice water test is often used to calibrate a thermometer, IMO, it's not the best way to go. I use a good medical grade thermometer, either digital or mercury bulb. Most medical grade thermometers are guaranteed to be accurate to +/- .2*F. I place the accurate thermometer in a bowl or cup of water at 100*. I then add my other thermometer(s), making sure that none of them touch the sides of the bowl. Allow time for the thermometers to register current water temp, and compare the readings. IMO, while a thermometer may pass the ice test at 32*F, that does not insure accuracy at the 100*F range.

Yes, there is a huge problem if moving your eggs from forced air to still air if you maintain the same temp. Forced air should be 99.5*F. Still air should be 102*F measured at the surface of the eggs. I actually use 100*F in my home made forced air, measured with calibrated thermometers, and have excellent hatch rates.

I run 30 - 40% humidity through day 18. Humidity is a tool to ensure that the aircells grow large enough so the chick does not drown when she pips. I monitor air cell size, and make adjustments in humidity during the last week. Sometimes, I have to run completely dry right up to first pip to ensure that the eggs loose enough moisture. If the egg is too wet, the chick will be too large to be able to successfully turn. Too much moisture in the egg = air cell too small = possible drowning of chick at pip.

Thanks. This is helpful. Is there any point in bringing up the temp now, at day 21? I will say, the air cells developed wonderfully until the transfer to lock down, and even now, they seem to be growing bigger, which I've read to expect. Dont know if that matters, though.

 

[lazy gardener]

I doubt that changing the temp at this time will make a difference. If you see no signs of life when you candle. If tapping on the eggs does not elicit a response then chances are likely that the eggs are dead.