Deep litter method

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Okay, I'm ordering DE online, and I just got the 10lb bag to start with--this seems like it will last quite a while since I read that you're to put it on with a flour sifter. My coop is 8 x 8, so my question is: how much DE does everyone with a similar size coop go through? I have 10 chickens.
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Thanks!
 
I've read through most of this thread and am still unsure- is this method only do-able in the coop itself, or does it work in the run as well? Secondly, if the run is completely exposed (i.e. dirt floor, solid roof, but wire sides), is deep litter impossible due to the amount of rain and what not?

Thanks!
 
I think that would depend on your drainage around your run...if rain water will be running into your run when it rains, I don't think the DLM will work for you. If your run stays pretty dry when you have a good rain, it may very well work for you.

My coop has one whole wall of windows, covered just with hardware cloth and chicken wire, and another large window of the same on the opposite side. Of course the building has a good overhang but my deep litter doesn't draw moisture when it rains, even being this open to the elements.
 
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In a dry climate, or if you are on exceedingly free-draining soil (nearly-pure sand or gravel, going deep down) AND have a roof over the run and not excessive rain, it can work in the run too. Or if you have very few chickens per run area.

By and large though, for most peoples' situation, I would not suggest adding organic matter (shavings, straw, wood chips, etc) to a run UNLESS you are prepared to remove it all to compost elsewhere as soon as a stink or mud problem starts to develop, as it often does.

Good luck, have fun,

Pat
 
So far it has worked really well with our girls. We do live in a dry climate (Boise) and so far only "cleaned" the floor once in 3 months. It was getting stinky because we had a lot of rain. I just added 3 inches on new shavings with DE sprinkled and mixed in. No odor and it's been a month and a half. I do use straw in the roost area on top of brown paper leaf bags (already had them), clean that daily and sprinkle with DE when needed. Had a big infestation of earwigs, all gone the next day after DE!!! So far, so good. I LOVE low maintainence...
 
We've used the deep-litter method for a year now and it has worked perfectly. I can sit in that coop for an hour and not be bothered by smell. We lightly sprinkle food-grade D.E. over the floor each time we add shavings. The girls have not had any parasite problems! They are also very good about scratching up and mixing the litter.

Next weekend we're going to clean out the coop (removing all the litter and starting with fresh) for the first time, which should be interesting!

I've been very happy with this method, and I think it makes for a nice warm floor the girls in winter.

Natalie
 
New here. We have 5 acres in CT and are building our chicken coop and yard from scratch (so to speak). In the research stage now, will begin work very soon. Read all 21 pages of this thread and am curious about a couple of things asked but never answered.

1. What is the purpose of using wood ash in the chicken coop? What are the benefits?

2. We'll definitely use DLM (my partner & I are familiar with it from our long-ago childhoods around chickens) and my sense is that a dirt floor is best, for most effective composting if nothing else. Is that the general concensus?


I have lots of other questions but they're not about DLM so will try to find the right threads for them. Well, maybe this one isn't too far off-topic for this thread: For the coop I plan to have south-facing windows for warmth in winter (shaded by deciduous trees in summer); if they open will that provide enough ventilation year-round?

Thanks,
Reed
 
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I started our hanging my waterer in the coop, but the chickens still managed to spill or splash some out and would make a wet spot in my shavings. So now I just hang their feeder inside the coop and put their waterers outside in the run. I hang one and have another on a cement block. They free range for all day long and go back and forth to the coop whenever they want a drink or a snack of pellets. Works very well for me and them. I also don't have to worry about spilling water whenever I pick up the waterers for cleaning and refilling.
 
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Concerning your ventilation question...you don't want the only source of ventilation to be where it will cause drafts on your chickens. The best place for your main vents is up high near the ceiling. Warm moist air (from chickens expirations) will rise up and go out the higher vent while cooler air from your pop door will help the circulation process. You can still have windows for light and extra ventilation in summer, but in cold winter months you do not want your ventilation to be down low where the chickens are. They do not deal with drafts well. Here is a pic of my coop showing where my main ventilation is and my windows. One window is right by their roost, so as soon as it gets cool that one will be closed. The other window will also be closed when it gets even colder. They are located on opposite walls for cross ventilation in the summer.
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