Deep Litter

[SandyRiverChick]

Thanks for replying! Well I originally thought I would put them in a compost pile to start not the trash. Unfortunately you can’t just grow anything out here because the deer eat everything in sight. My scenery consists of pine trees. I plan to put a hoop house in the future because I love gardening, so my chickens will feed my garden and my garden will feed my chickens. But right now I had just thought I could maybe just start throwing the shavings into the coop to prepare to move the chicks out there.

Sounds like a lovely property! Welcome to BYC and ENJOY the journey!

 

[RubySue]

If the shavings aren't particularly soiled then they can go into the coop.

I have a HUGE brooder and don't generally clean out the bedding during the 4 weeks before they go into the coop for integration.

It's going to depend on how dirty the brooder gets (often odor is due to spilling water and feed rather than the actual poop).

You’ve been very helpful thanks!

 

[3KillerBs]

It is an 8 x 4 coop for 6 birds.

Where, in general, are you? Climate matters.

For 6 hens you theoretically need 6 square feet of 24/7/365 ventilation. But here in the sandhills of central North Carolina, where 95F is a common summer high temperature, I find that I need at least double or triple that to keep my coops under 100F on a 90F day.

Those vents up in the eves are in a great location.

You’ve been very helpful thanks!

You're welcome. I learned so much from people here and I am passing it on.

 

[RubySue]

Since you're still in the coop construction process, I'd like to give you the link for my article on coop ventilation: https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/repecka-illustrates-coop-ventilation.77659/

Generous ventilation is, IMO, the #1 best thing you can do to ensure your chickens' good health.

We have left the 3 sides of the eaves of the roof open - the front, left, and back. The right was closed and the window was placed. I’m hoping that is good? It is an 8 x 4 coop for 6 birds.

Where, in general, are you? Climate matters.

For 6 hens you theoretically need 6 square feet of 24/7/365 ventilation. But here in the sandhills of central North Carolina, where 95F is a common summer high temperature, I find that I need at least double or triple that to keep my coops under 100F on a 90F day.

Those vents up in the eves are in a great location.



You're welcome. I learned so much from people here and I am passing it on.

Western South Dakota. Black Hills National Forest. 4500 elevation. Typically there are mild summers avg 70-80s here with a short stretch of 90s. Typical humidity is like 20%-30% lol. We are really dry. We don’t have air conditioning like many others because it cools down so much at night. It can be pretty extreme from -20 below to 40s and lots of snow to barely any. Weird weather extremes. It was recently 90 one day here and 50 the next.

 

[3KillerBs]

Western South Dakota. Black Hills National Forest. 4500 elevation. Typically there are mild summers avg 70-80s here with a short stretch of 90s. Typical humidity is like 20%-30% lol. We are really dry. We don’t have air conditioning like many others because it cools down so much at night. It can be pretty extreme from -20 below to 40s and lots of snow to barely any. Weird weather extremes. It was recently 90 one day here and 50 the next.

Here are a couple useful articles for you since you get severe winters:

https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/aarts-extreme-weather-spiel.75893/
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/cold-weather-poultry-housing-and-care.72010/

I'm a hot climate person so I have no direct experience with that aspect of chicken-keeping -- knowing only that if they are dry and out of the wind their built-in down parkas keep them warm.

@Mrs. K is in your area and has great information to share about many aspects of chicken-keeping.

 

[Mrs. K]

I am on the prairie east of the Black Hills.

Is your run totally enclosed? My run has been my downfall many times. My dear Hubby finally rebuilt it out of chainlink fencing due to predators. We have tough and determined predators here in SD.

Coyotes, hawks and eagles tend to get them in the day time, coons at night. I swear we have the smartest coons in the USA. They can nearly figure out how to get in anything. That is why your really need over the top protection of your run...but that can cause problems with snow load, which is amazingly heavy and can tear things apart.

Welcome to BackYard Chickens, and welcome to a fellow SD chicken keeper.

Mrs K

 

[RubySue]

I am on the prairie east of the Black Hills.

Is your run totally enclosed? My run has been my downfall many times. My dear Hubby finally rebuilt it out of chainlink fencing due to predators. We have tough and determined predators here in SD.

Coyotes, hawks and eagles tend to get them in the day time, coons at night. I swear we have the smartest coons in the USA. They can nearly figure out how to get in anything. That is why your really need over the top protection of your run...but that can cause problems with snow load, which is amazingly heavy and can tear things apart.

Welcome to BackYard Chickens, and welcome to a fellow SD chicken keeper.

Mrs K

I am near Rockerville. We actually are putting the coop and run inside a horse run-in that’s not being used, so it’s essentially sheltered on 3 sides. So snow load shouldn’t be a problem. We plan to shelter the lower parts of the run from snow and wind. The run will be completely wrapped in 1/2 hardware cloth. And yes way too many predators out here.

Funny thing about the coons, my neighbor asked if my cat was on her deck at maybe 5:00 the other morning and if it was big and gray. I said I don’t let them out until light (I don’t want them eaten) and they mostly stay on my porch. She reviewed her trail cams and caught a raccoon along with the coyotes and some elk. So she thinks it was a raccoon.

Thanks for the welcome. Here is an earlier photo to get a view of the coop and horse run-in where it will be.

 

[aart]

Western South Dakota. Black Hills National Forest. 4500 elevation.

Welcome to BYC! @RubySue
Here's how to add your general geographical location to your profile.
It's easy to do, and then it's always there!

 

[Ridgerunner]

Deep litter and deep bedding are two different concepts. Deep litter essentially means turning your coop floor or run floor into a compost pile. For it to compost it needs to maintain a certain dampness. It needs to be damp enough that the microbes that digest organic matter and change it into compost can live and reproduce, but you don't want it too wet. You want the microbes to be the aerobic type, oxygen breathers. If it is too wet the oxygen cannot get to the microbes so you get anaerobic microbes. Those create a lot of ammonia, get slimy, and stink. Also, if it is too wet, certain disease producing microbes can thrive. I'm mainly thinking Coccidiosis. You want the moisture level to be about the same as getting a sponge wet then wringing or squeezing out the water. A slightly damp sponge.

The moisture can come from rain, snow, maybe condensation, spilled water, or their poop. If their poop gets too thick it won't dry out. Generally during the day they walk around so the poop doesn't pile up, but at night when they are roosting you can get some pretty thick piles.

Deep bedding is where you keep it so dry that no microbes can live. It's not going to stink or support those certain diseases.

You manage deep litter and deep bedding differently. With deep litter you can put anything in there that you would in a compost pile, including kitchen or garden wastes. Scattering or mixing in the overnight poop buildup in it should keep the poop dry enough so it doesn't stink. You don't want to do this on a wooden floor. Wood is organic material and those microbes will digest it tool (rot it). Some people use certain paints or linoleum to protect the wood but a dirt floor usually works great.

With deep bedding it usually helps if the birds spend most of the day not in the coop so the poop doesn't build up too much. It also helps if you remove most of the nighttime poop under the roosts. I use a droppings board to make that easier. With my deep bedding I can go years without having to clean the coop floor if I want to. The nighttime poop goes on my compost pile.

Many people do neither deep litter nor deep bedding. They clean the coop out as needed. This is probably the most used method on this forum.

If you are going for deep litter, you can dump that brooder in there. I would not if you are trying for deep bedding or just clean it as needed.

 

[RubySue]

Deep litter and deep bedding are two different concepts. Deep litter essentially means turning your coop floor or run floor into a compost pile. For it to compost it needs to maintain a certain dampness. It needs to be damp enough that the microbes that digest organic matter and change it into compost can live and reproduce, but you don't want it too wet. You want the microbes to be the aerobic type, oxygen breathers. If it is too wet the oxygen cannot get to the microbes so you get anaerobic microbes. Those create a lot of ammonia, get slimy, and stink. Also, if it is too wet, certain disease producing microbes can thrive. I'm mainly thinking Coccidiosis. You want the moisture level to be about the same as getting a sponge wet then wringing or squeezing out the water. A slightly damp sponge.

The moisture can come from rain, snow, maybe condensation, spilled water, or their poop. If their poop gets too thick it won't dry out. Generally during the day they walk around so the poop doesn't pile up, but at night when they are roosting you can get some pretty thick piles.

Deep bedding is where you keep it so dry that no microbes can live. It's not going to stink or support those certain diseases.

You manage deep litter and deep bedding differently. With deep litter you can put anything in there that you would in a compost pile, including kitchen or garden wastes. Scattering or mixing in the overnight poop buildup in it should keep the poop dry enough so it doesn't stink. You don't want to do this on a wooden floor. Wood is organic material and those microbes will digest it tool (rot it). Some people use certain paints or linoleum to protect the wood but a dirt floor usually works great.

With deep bedding it usually helps if the birds spend most of the day not in the coop so the poop doesn't build up too much. It also helps if you remove most of the nighttime poop under the roosts. I use a droppings board to make that easier. With my deep bedding I can go years without having to clean the coop floor if I want to. The nighttime poop goes on my compost pile.

Many people do neither deep litter nor deep bedding. They clean the coop out as needed. This is probably the most used method on this forum.

If you are going for deep litter, you can dump that brooder in there. I would not if you are trying for deep bedding or just clean it as needed.

Thanks so much for the info! I was planning on using deep litter for compost in my garden. Regarding moisture, I have no idea what it will be like. We don't live in an area with high humidity, and I ventilated the coop well. I don't intend to keep the water inside the coop unless it gets too cold and they refuse to come out. I did pick cold hardy birds, so we shall see =) My floor is rubber. I guess I will just have to try and see what will work best for my situation. I didn't realize there were two different definitions. Thanks again =)