6 - 8 weeks they get boxed and taken over there![]()
Then I should put the cockerels from the first clutch in the Cockerel Colony now. And pretty soon could add the cockerels from the second clutch.
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6 - 8 weeks they get boxed and taken over there![]()
I think size differences between clutches might make things interesting but Dels are not usually too aggressive
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I guess the theory here is if you get them in the group before they think they can "whup" the boss cock then he keeps them in line.
I put some previous Del line cockerels in with a old RR cock named Bob. They Were already at the stage of harassing the pullets and with Bob was the only place available . He ignored them until two of them started challenging him .
feeding time one day I do the count and ones missing. There is this little white spec in the far corner of the Enet.
Walk down and there is the young stud challenger with his head tucked all the way in the corner blood all over his head and comb torn up . He was also missing some tail feathers. Bob had reached his limit on challenges .
Had to put young guy in chicken tractor because every time I pulled him out of corner Bob would run him back in.
No problems with the rest of them but Ol Bob was never the same. Always walked kind of hunched down instead of proud upright. Musta been a hell of a fight. But like the emergency services I only got there for the cleanup![]()
I've had a couple cockerels die after fights with each other (not with cock birds). So, I'm leery of adding different groups of cockerels together.Walk down and there is the young stud challenger with his head tucked all the way in the corner blood all over his head and comb torn up . He was also missing some tail feathers. Bob had reached his limit on challenges .
Had to put young guy in chicken tractor because every time I pulled him out of corner Bob would run him back in.
No problems with the rest of them but Ol Bob was never the same. Always walked kind of hunched down instead of proud upright. Musta been a hell of a fight.
I hope this worked out well. My broody that I moved was acting the same way. When the first egg pipped, she pecked it to death. Last night, she had a live chick under her. I have chicks in the hatcher. I'm debating whether to put them in a brooder or try to slip them under her, tonight.Over four hours every time I looked she was still pacing but less each time.
About a hour before dark a cold front moved in and temperature was falling so I figured the eggs were toast. Just as soon as I thought that she stuck her head in the nest ,
climbed in and set on the eggs. Hasn't been off since.
She was off them about four hours so I hope they are still viable.![]()
I'm going to, in good humor, counter this with ... Yes! With Delawares and St. Croix!
Just FYI - what you are describing is a sub set of sheep called Hair Sheep. Breeds of hair sheep include Dorpers, St. Croix, Katahdin, Barbadoes Blackbelly and a few others. Dorpers have the most meat of the hair breeds. They're like the Cornish Cross version.The Dorper is a interesting breed of sheep.- developed for meat in arid regions . Loses its coat in spring/summer to with stand the heat.
Interesting animal.
So you never need to shear these Hair Sheep ?
(old photo- that's a Sand Hill Del)
Just FYI - what you are describing is a sub set of sheep called Hair Sheep. Breeds of hair sheep include Dorpers, St. Croix, Katahdin, Barbadoes Blackbelly and a few others. Dorpers have the most meat of the hair breeds. They're like the Cornish Cross version.St. Croix have the most parasite resistance. All hair sheep have superior meat qualities to wool breeds. The meat tastes totally different from commercial lamb. Even if you think that you don't like lamb, you should try lamb from a hair sheep breed. It's delicious.![]()