deworming chickens????????????????

[countrybum]

I use Wazin every 6 months for 4 days. I throw out the eggs or incubate for the following 10 days after treatment and the 4 days of treatment. Now at the same time I treat for worms, I also treat for Coccidia and put them on an antibiotic, this treats everything at one time. I have never had a problem, except for egg loss.

 

[Chick_a_dee]

Quote:
Resistency is a big issue when worming, thats why with our horse we change wormers every couple wormings, and rotate the brands/varieties around.

 

[Judy]

I believe Wazine only treats for roundworms. Isn't it piperazine?

I have read here that it has been proven that pumpkin seeds do not work. Some add 3 Tbsp of cayenne pepper to every gallon of feed to prevent worms. (Chickens evidently do not taste the heat.) Lots of folks on here use Epinrex, which is ivomectin in a pour-on form, but this is an off label use in chickens as it is a cattle med.

I think the problem here goes back to the fact that most research in chicken care has been done in regards to commercial chicken raising. And battery hens don't need worming as they live in cages. I don't think there is a simple answer to how to manage worms in chickens. You just have to research and make your own choices.

Here are some of threads to read:

https://www.backyardchickens.com/forum/viewtopic.php?id=174004

https://www.backyardchickens.com/forum/viewtopic.php?id=103771&p=1

https://www.backyardchickens.com/forum/viewtopic.php?id=148375

 

[caralouise1974]

I have used both Flubenvet (powdered and mixed in the feed) and Ivermectin (pour on - three drops onto the skin between the shoulder blades).

Definitely saw a load of dead worms in the poop after using the Flubenvet, but nothing after the ivermectin. (Perhaps the hens were not carrying a worm load when I used the ivermec though.)

Lots of people swear by the ivermec as an easy an convenient way to worm, and I tossed the eggs for 8 days afterwards, as per popular opinion. It also has the advantage over Flubenvet that it kills external parasites and mites on the skin surface too. Flubenvet suggests egg withdrawal of seven days, if I remember correctly.

 

[Intheswamp]

Quote:
Resistency is a big issue when worming, thats why with our horse we change wormers every couple wormings, and rotate the brands/varieties around.

Damerow states that resistance takes from 8-10 generations (of worms)...doesn't state what timeframe a generation consists of though. I would think using the same wormer for at least 2-3 applications in a row would be prudent. ????

Something else mentioned is to let the birds fast for 18 hours, give the wormer, and then about an hour after giving the wormer to feed them a moist mash.

No chicken book should be taken as being 100% accurate, common sense needs to be applied also, but Damerow's book is a good one to get you in the same t-ball field.

Ed

 

[Intheswamp]

I hope I remember this correctly...

I read *somewhere* (I've been trying to remember where) that if you think you have a bad worm infestation to not give a broad-spectrum wormer but to first give a specific wormer for a specific worm and then to follow-up with a broad-spectrum wormer.

The reason, as I recall, is that a bad infestation killed all at once could "do in" your chicken. I'm invisioning something like what would happen if you gave heartworm medicine to a dog that has heartworms....anaphylactic shock, or whatever.

I'll look back through some of my other books and see if I can find the specific wording.

Ed

 

[Judy]

Quote:
Pretty sure that was posted here, I think by Glenda Heywood.

 

[Intheswamp]

Quote:
Pretty sure that was posted here, I think by Glenda Heywood.

Oh good. I won't look, then.

 

[gritsar]

The thing that I find interesting about the albendazole (valbazen) is that it is also what is commonly prescribed for humans for worms.

 

[stephen_tx]

The problem with the whole preventative discussion is that for some worms once you know they have them it may be too late. We just recently lost our oldest hen to Gapeworm, by the time she displayed symptoms they had already infested her windpipe, but like the vet said once she gets to this stage it's too late.

I've read these boards about recommendations for dewormers and some of them are only available by prescription. Someone mentioned Wazine, I read the label on that last night (Warning: Not for use on chickens that produce eggs for human consumption). If they don't want us eating the eggs, why would I want to feed it to my flock.

I'm also looking for a less harmful method to treat worms (I won't say natural because arsenic is all natural, but I wouldn't feed it to my chickens). I'm about to try Verm-x and will let everyone know my results. As for ACV, although many say it's a good dewormer i have to agree with the comment that once it's diluted it's ineffective, but I know that it's more of an immune booster than an actual dewormer which may help with the chickens own system to fight off infestations, just like Yogurt is good for their digestion.