Ok this will be blunt so that I cover the important stuff. I keep emotion out of it so that I can get the details explained
(gotta use this disclaimer as it isnt that I dont care, but I am clinical in how treat hatching eggs)
- Goose eggs are NOTHING like chicken eggs on any level other than their shape
- They develop differently and candle differently
- You are seeing what appears like a normal egg
- I would like to see a better picture candled from the top showing how well the air cell has developed
- Geese dont hatch in any form of a hurry
- I NEVER go into lockdown until I candle and can SEE the gosling has pipped internally.
- Then and ONLY then will I lock down and raise the humidity
- This assures you if the gosling needs a few extra hours to turn or of lower humidity they get it
- Stop turning is fine the last three days as it helps the baby turn into position
- Keep checking every 6-8 hours for an internal pip
- Once you see an internal pip get that humidity up and then go into lockdown
- DONT open the bator again until that gosling has hatched
- It will internall pip and then just lay there and rest
- Will turn inside the egg and look like its doing nothing
- External pip and rest more
- turn and rest
- punch more shell and rest
- They can take 2 full days to truly show any real progress
- RESIST helping, opening the bator or over reacting (this is the hardest part)
- dont not open the bator once it has externally pipped
- do not open the bator once it has externally pipped
- do not open the bator once it has externally pipped
Thanks so much! This really helps!
Pete's guide to hatching says that you can make a safety hole if there isn't much progress after the internal pip. Since geese take longer, how long is too long?
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