differences between raising poults & chicks ?

giasmom

Songster
10 Years
Mar 31, 2009
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Woodville, Al
I've been trying to read all about turkeys on here for the past month or so. I had three eggs in the bator, now 2 eggs and a poult. Just wanting to know if there is anything I need to do differantly during the brooder stage ? Is it just the same as raising chicks,except for the feed differances ? Are the temps and the duration of brooder time the same ? I usually turn my chicks out into the big coop between 2 & 3 weeks, will I be able to do that with only 3 poults? They will be housed seperate from the chickens, actually on differant properties. Just trying to learn all this turkey stuff so please bare with me !
 
From what i have read, first two weeks medicated chick starter, then switch over to game bird starter 28% or more until sixteen weeks, then they can go out to free range and go back on chick feed until a month before they are about to lay, when you will start them on Game Bird Breeder ration. Also, maybe delay getting those poults on the dirt until a few weeks later because they are more susceptible to diseases and parasites than chicks. If your ground has not seen a lot of chicken activity already maybe they can go out with the chicks. Keep a closer eye on them to make sure they know where to eat and drink and don't get soaked.
 
Agreed with the above post. Poults need much higher protein. They are generally more fragile than chicks with higher potential mortality rates. They should NOT be on dirt. Other than that, they can fly faster and more easily than chicks. they also need grit right away and they love to eat greens like bits of grass much younger.
 
we've also found that they need to be a little warmer than chicks - they will peep miserably if they get too cool. we keep our poults in the brooder until they are a bit older - even the momma raised ones. as above, with the parasites, also unlike chickens who are really curious, the little turks are a little slower to explore (unless they are momma raised - than she can drag them around thru the wet grass etc)... so best to keep them inside for a while. some books say 8 weeks before you put them outside to make sure their immune systems are firing on all cylinders.

we introduce ours outside gradually - lots of shade, several feeders/waterers, and not for too long until they get used to it. then step back and watch the free rangin' fly! mine love to free range better than eating bagged food.

what breed??

good luck!
 
This is what works for me, and have not lost one in two years.

Make sure they can find food and water. 24% medcated starter use hard boil egg yolks over the feed the first day. dip each poults beak in the water.

I keep them on wire bottom brooder, this keeps them dry and out of the waste. On wire and medicated feed for 8 weeks.

Same heat for chicken chicks.
 
Quote:
Thanks for the info, as far as breeds go, out of my 3 eggs I got 1 Royal palm/ bronze & 2 bronze turkeys. They act a bit slow/special ( if you know what I mean) compared to chicks, is this normal?
 
they act a bit slow/special ( if you know what I mean) compared to chicks, is this normal?

yep - but they will perk up. our lone poult, Mr Pipps, was raised with chicks. sometimes he would stand there and sllllooooooooowly lean over until he was sleeping, resting on his beak. it was hilarious. and they sometimes looks a little confused. just keep them warm - try putting new things in their brooder like a little hard boiled egg, or later on - a little grass - anything to keep then interested. we put colored marbles in their drinker to keep them interested in drinking...

dont think i said this or not but you'll have to gauge when to put them out if you can keep them warm than move with the rest.. but for any reason you think they need a couple more days in the brooder its ok to keep them in for a while. if i remember Mr Pipps stuck pretty close to being under the light in our outside brooder until he was a bit older .

pics if you have them??
:)
 

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