Dirty bottoms

[Chescochickens]

Hi all - my three lavender orpingtons have dirty bottoms and their poop is runny like the photo below. My other girls are fine. I clipped the dirty feathers a few days ago and they are messy again. I watched one squat and poop and it looks like she can’t fully clear her vent area. I put deworming treatment in their water and will see if that helps. Any other ideas as to what could be wrong and how to treat this?

 

[Razzlefrazzle]

That sort of bubbly yellow poop is pretty common with internal parasites so I think it's good you;re worming them. Not sure what you are deworming with, but I'd use safeguard or valbazen--natural treatments won't do much. Coccidiosis can also cause poop like that so keep an eye out for lethargy and other symptoms. Could also be an infection (though it'd be strange that the 3 orpingtons have it and no others) or possibly a diet issue, but I think parasites are most likely.

Out of curiosity are the orpingtons new or a different age group than your others? It's a bit odd that those three and only those three are having trouble...

 

[Chescochickens]

Thank you! I’ll head to Tractor Supply today for either of those brands. I have some called “Backyard” something that was recommended but not sure if it’s working. I’ve worried about the one Orpington for a while as she’s always had issues with a dirty vent but then went through a molt and things seemed better. Now that is has spread to the others has me worried though. I have two buff orpingtons that don’t seem affected and a speckled sussex who appears healthy too. Can’t figure out why it would just be the lavenders.

With the deworming treatment, do you put a drop on bread and hand feed? I use the other stuff in water. Also, is there egg withdrawal? Thanks!

 

[Eggcessive]

Valbazen is more often found online. I like it because 1/2 ml orally, and repeated in 10 days will get most possible worms except for tapeworms, a more rare one. The SafeGuard liquid Goat Wormer is found at most all feed stores. Dosage is 1/4 ml per pound of weight given one and and again in 10 days for only roundworms. To treat most types of worms give it for 5 consecutive days. With both wormers, a 14 day egg withdrawal time is sufficient. Many people do ignore that and still use the eggs, though.

With the recent warmer weather, some birds are drinking more water and eating more grasses, and that can make the droppings more loose and runny. I am a fan of using probiotics in the water once or twice a week. Probios powder or the generic is found at feed stores, and I sometimes give a spoonful of plain Greek yogurt, a brand that has just live cultures on the label. A small cup is around a dollar.

 

[Chescochickens]

Thank you for all of this info! I just went to the feed store to buy Safeguard and showed a picture of the poop and they think it could be coccidiosis. They sold me Corid which is labeled for calves. Any idea of the dosage for chickens?

 

[Razzlefrazzle]

Thank you for all of this info! I just went to the feed store to buy Safeguard and showed a picture of the poop and they think it could be coccidiosis. They sold me Corid which is labeled for calves. Any idea of the dosage for chickens?

If it's the liquid 9.6% Corid, I use 1 teaspoon per gallon of water (only water available) for five days, but I've also seen dosage of 2 teaspoons per gallon for severe outbreaks. Don't give any vitamin supplements with thiamine (vitamin B1) while treating with Corid.

No harm in treating for coccidiosis, but it's less common in adult birds that are used to their environment and haven't had any new exposures, so you may still need to worm next

 

[Chescochickens]

Thank you! I wonder if the one who I’ve been worried about has had it for months. I got the entire flock from a friend last August and she has been off ever since. I assumed it was her molt and possibly worms which I treated for with Backyard Flock dewormer but she kept having recurring issues. I’m hoping the Corid helps. I gave everyone a bath yesterday and clipped vent feathers so we’ll see how they do. I will use the wormer after the 5 days. I appreciate all of your help!

While I have you, one question about bullying. My speckled Sussex was missing feathers when I got her last year and this lavender girl I’m talking about also had been pecked on the back. I increased protein and put them both in saddles. They went through their molts with the rest of the flock and all their feathers grew back and everyone seemed fine over the winter. However, I’ve noticed my Sussex’s back feathers are tattered and broken. No skin exposed but I think she is being bullied again. The Buff Orpington I have is who I suspect because she rules the roost but the Sussex pals around with her and roosts next to her so I can’t figure it out. And not sure how to stop it…

 

[Eggcessive]

I agree that coccidiosis is usually found in young chickens in their first couple of months, or in birds who have poor immunity or illnesses. Corid is pretty harmless, but can treat a long standing chronic case of coccidiosis. Don’t give extra b vitamins while on Corid.

 

[Chescochickens]

Ok so now one of them is making a barking cough noise. From what I’ve read, it sounds like it could be CRD. Could that be related to the dirty vent issue or unrelated? Could the Corid be causing it?

 

[Chescochickens]

Videos of the coughing. Hope they work.

FullSizeRender.MOV

• Chescochickens
• Apr 16, 2023

Lavender coughing