Do these coop plans look good

[urbaninsteading]

I had to tweak my coop plans when I realized that I didn't have enough ventilation. I now should have about 2.5 sq ft of ventilation for a 24 sq ft coop. Adding more ventilation meant that I had to adjust my roost placement. Is it alright to combine parallel and ladder style placements? I don't have quite enough vertical space for a ladder style roost, but I thought that it might be better to put 1 bar higher than the other one so that birds can establish pecking order better. Here are my current coop plans (interior only - I have separate drawings for the exterior plans). Any suggestions? I'm converting a playhouse and will be adding length to the original structure, but the width and height can't be easily adjusted.

Thanks!

 

[3KillerBs]

Welcome to BYC.

Where, in general, are you located? Climate matters, especially when it comes to housing.

How many chickens do you plan on putting into this coop? The usual guideline is to have at least 1 square foot of ventilation for each adult, standard size hen -- with more required if you're in a hot climate.

 

[urbaninsteading]

Welcome to BYC.

Where, in general, are you located? Climate matters, especially when it comes to housing.

How many chickens do you plan on putting into this coop? The usual guideline is to have at least 1 square foot of ventilation for each adult, standard size hen -- with more required if you're in a hot climate.

Minnesota (zone 4b). I will probably have 4 hens (my city limit), but want to be able to accommodate up to 6 hens in case I have to do a partial turnover of my flock due to predators/illness. On top of this, I will have 2 square feet of windows. This is just the overhead ventilation. I would have room to add more ventilation by using the entire slanted roof area and just doing two parallel roosts instead of having one higher than the other (have them both 28 inches off of the ground and 18 inches apart). If I did that on each end, I'd have about 5.97 square feet of ventilation. Would that be better?

Also, I should add that I will have a partially covered (and completely enclosed) run. I will NOT be keeping food and water in the coop.

 

[3KillerBs]

Minnesota (zone 4b). I will probably have 4 hens (my city limit), but want to be able to accommodate up to 6 hens in case I have to do a partial turnover of my flock due to predators/illness. On top of this, I will have 2 square feet of windows. This is just the overhead ventilation. I would have room to add more ventilation by using the entire slanted roof area and just doing two parallel roosts instead of having one higher than the other (have them both 28 inches off of the ground and 18 inches apart). If I did that on each end, I'd have about 5.97 square feet of ventilation. Would that be better?

Also, I should add that I will have a partially covered (and completely enclosed) run. I will NOT be keeping food and water in the coop.

So, here are the theoretical numbers for 4 and 6 chickens (taken from an article I'm writing):

4 hens

• 16 square feet in the coop. 4'x4' is the only really practical build for this given the common dimensions of lumber.
• 4 feet of roost
• 40 square feet in the run. 4'x10' or 5'x8'. 6'x6' is a bit too small, 6'x8' is more generous and easier to build than 5'x8'.
• 4 square feet of ventilation. A 2'x2' window is theoretically enough, but in practice doesn't create any air FLOW so better to spread the venting around (and even better to exceed the minimums, especially in warm climates).
• 2 nest boxes, to give the hens a choice

6 hens

• 24 square feet in the coop. 4'x6' is the only really practical build for this given the common dimensions of lumber. If you can't walk into it, put the access door in the middle of the long side to make sure you can reach all areas of the coop because a stubborn chicken WILL press itself into/lay an egg in the back corner where you can't reach.
• 6 feet of roost
• 60 square feet in the run. 6'x10' or 8'x8'.
• 6 square feet of ventilation.
• 2 nest boxes, to give the hens a choice

As you can see, your space looks pretty good for that at 24 square feet and 6 feet of roost.

This is my article on ventilation. It might help you visualize the sort of airflow you're looking for. I think you're on the right track. Can you show us pictures of what it looks like now and where the planned modifications are going?

https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/repecka-illustrates-coop-ventilation.77659/

 

[urbaninsteading]

Minnesota (zone 4b). I will probably have 4 hens (my city limit), but want to be able to accommodate up to 6 hens in case I have to do a partial turnover of my flock due to predators/illness. On top of this, I will have 2 square feet of windows. This is just the overhead ventilation. I would have room to add more ventilation by using the entire slanted roof area and just doing two parallel roosts instead of having one higher than the other (have them both 28 inches off of the ground and 18 inches apart). If I did that on each end, I'd have about 5.97 square feet of ventilation. Would that be bet

So, here are the theoretical numbers for 4 and 6 chickens (taken from an article I'm writing):

4 hens

• 16 square feet in the coop. 4'x4' is the only really practical build for this given the common dimensions of lumber.
• 4 feet of roost
• 40 square feet in the run. 4'x10' or 5'x8'. 6'x6' is a bit too small, 6'x8' is more generous and easier to build than 5'x8'.
• 4 square feet of ventilation. A 2'x2' window is theoretically enough, but in practice doesn't create any air FLOW so better to spread the venting around (and even better to exceed the minimums, especially in warm climates).
• 2 nest boxes, to give the hens a choice

6 hens

• 24 square feet in the coop. 4'x6' is the only really practical build for this given the common dimensions of lumber. If you can't walk into it, put the access door in the middle of the long side to make sure you can reach all areas of the coop because a stubborn chicken WILL press itself into/lay an egg in the back corner where you can't reach.
• 6 feet of roost
• 60 square feet in the run. 6'x10' or 8'x8'.
• 6 square feet of ventilation.
• 2 nest boxes, to give the hens a choice

As you can see, your space looks pretty good for that at 24 square feet and 6 feet of roost.

This is my article on ventilation. It might help you visualize the sort of airflow you're looking for. I think you're on the right track. Can you show us pictures of what it looks like now and where the planned modifications are going?

https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/repecka-illustrates-coop-ventilation.77659/

I actually read this article months ago! Awesome! I have photos of my build so far in this thread https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/how-to-fix-a-measuring-mistake.1553662/#post-26284239 I don't have a ton done yet. I have decided to fix my measuring mistake by adding length to the frame with extra lumber, as one person suggested. I want to make sure my plans are exact. It's tricky, because I'm trying to add ventilation to an A frame. So I'm not exactly sure how to do that (most of the pictures/articles I have seen use a slanted roof that has ventilation along one side. I have sheets of corrugated tin that I will use in place of the shingles. I think the cuppolas (like in your drawing) look great, but I have no idea how to do that with the tin sheets that I have - my construction knowledge is limited.

The coop will fit inside the run, which will be a converted dog kennel. Run is 8'9" x 15'.

Also, I'm only 5'1", so I'm able to stand in the playhouse without issue.

 

[3KillerBs]

It's tricky, because I'm trying to add ventilation to an A frame.

Yes, that's a tricky thing to do.

Putting the coop inside the dog kennel will make that easier if the kennel is roofed.

A ridge vent might be a good option.

 

[urbaninsteading]

Yes, that's a tricky thing to do.

Putting the coop inside the dog kennel will make that easier if the kennel is roofed.

A ridge vent might be a good option.

Yes, I'm going to use a heavy-duty tarp that I will secure with wire cables and eye screws into the lawn (tarp will have metal eyelets). That way, when the weather is nice, I can unclip the tarp. I plan on using cattle panels to create a domed roof that will attach to the top of the dog kennel - with the option to add an additional frame and/or beams for added support. It's in a pretty sheltered area of our yard, so I'm not super concerned about wind (we have a detached garage behind and to the south of our house - coop will be on the north side of the garage so that the garage will block wind from the south and the house will block wind from the west).

I actually had no idea what a ridge vent was. I looked it up and I do think that will help.

 

[3KillerBs]

Yes, I'm going to use a heavy-duty tarp that I will secure with wire cables and eye screws into the lawn (tarp will have metal eyelets). That way, when the weather is nice, I can unclip the tarp. I plan on using cattle panels to create a domed roof that will attach to the top of the dog kennel - with the option to add an additional frame and/or beams for added support. It's in a pretty sheltered area of our yard, so I'm not super concerned about wind (we have a detached garage behind and to the south of our house - coop will be on the north side of the garage so that the garage will block wind from the south and the house will block wind from the west).

I actually had no idea what a ridge vent was. I looked it up and I do think that will help.

Sounds well-thought-through. Good luck with it all.

 

[urbaninsteading]

Sounds well-thought-through. Good luck with it all.

Thank you for your help!!

 

[SourRoses]

I don't have quite enough vertical space for a ladder style roost, but I thought that it might be better to put 1 bar higher than the other one so that birds can establish pecking order better.

I don't think it really works out better when some birds have to take lower roosts. The low birds hate it and tend to keep trying for higher.
We have a few different setups here, and the most peaceful flock is the one with enough room on the top roost that everyone can sleep there. The bossy ones just clear a space around them, the under-birds sit together (there is enough length to provide room for that).
In the shed with both high and low roosts, there is a nightly shrieking and flapping and disturbed warning calls upsetting everyone, because someone tried to fly up higher and got pushed down. It's very dramatic. And persistent, it doesn't seem like established pecking order makes a difference in how high they will aim for.
At least, that has been my experience. So same-level roosts are on my must-have list for coops.