Do you need to worm if no signs are present?

I took Dawg's advice on this matter, and use fenbendazole we already use this on our goats. The thing is chickens are very stoic and you won't get a lot of warning if there is a problem. Every 3 months or so I boil a pot of water with a whole garlic in it turn it off and let it steep for 12-24 hours
Put this in place of there water, they love it. But the fenbendazole rids them of mites and external parasites as well. An old bloke told me to put the garlic in an old stocking and hang it in the water, haven't tried this yet, but might be worth a try.
 
Wow, so many differents thoughts on the subject. I'm enjoying the read. Medication, holistic, etc..I am looking into all options.

Even though they are in an enclosed run I do a quick clean of the coop under the roosts each morning when I let them out and the run gets a rake out at least once a week so poop pile up is not an issue. Sometimes I spot clean if I notice extra droppings in the run during the week. I chose to place my coop/run very close to my house so I can enjoy them which means clean outs happen more often then they probably need to since don't take kindly to the stinky smell that 14 feathery critters can produce.
 
I have been reading this thread and wonder if anyone has used Wazine. I haven't seen any evidence of worms, but I still treated the girls with it today. Also, it was mentioned that the run area needed to be treated. What would you treat it with and wouldn't the chickens eat it?
 
Several people have told me that I need to worm my hens before they start laying. I have been trying to figure out if this is true or not.

They show no signs of worms however will be starting to lay in the next month.
 
If they have no worms there is no reason to worm them. Take some samples of fresh droppings in a plastic baggy to your vet and have it tested for worms. If there are worms you can find out what kind and the vet can advise you of what to use, how much, how often, etc. Each area will have different kinds of parasites. Best to know what you are treating before you medicate. Once you start using some medications you will need to administer them on a regular basis. Don't start something unnecessarily.

My husband bought a book on chickens that answers many of my questions on chicken ailments. There are so many opinions on BYC and it was hard to sort out which one to believe. It was really confusing for me. I still like to read the comments, but I now have my own source of creditable information.
 
You need to test your chickens poo..every environment is different. I test twice a year since I eat my chickens and they free range. I have never added chemical wormers to my chickens. I change the environment and added natural herbs, seeds, and garlic. Retest to make sure they are clear.
Every animal has worms. We do too. Finding a balance that is healthy should be the goal. Worming your animals with chemicals makes super worms. It removes the weak ones and leaves the strong ones. They build a resistance and you end up changing worming chemicals, worming more often, never getting a healthy balance, and struggling to maintain healthy flocks.

Some offer Food Grade DE to chickens daily to keep parasites to a minimum. I have not use this, however if my methods did not work it ..it is something I would try. From what I have read, you offer it daily and in a few month, no more parasites.

One article for you to read..there are thousands to read


http://wolfcreekranch1.tripod.com/diatomaceous_earth.html
 
I have been reading this thread and wonder if anyone has used Wazine. I haven't seen any evidence of worms, but I still treated the girls with it today. Also, it was mentioned that the run area needed to be treated. What would you treat it with and wouldn't the chickens eat it?


Wazine only works on round worms. For those of you who want to go with science the following post is loaded with science. Read all 19 pages.

https://www.backyardchickens.com/t/576036/necropsy-results-is-not-coryza-or-crd-parasites-are-rampant/140

Personally I go with the poop sample to the vet for a report if positive I worm with safeguard and 10 days later with valbazen. If negative I don't worm. I test twice a year.

 
"Everyone has worms. I have worms. There is nothing wrong with having worms. The question is the kind of worms and how many worms."

Quote from famous professor at Tulane Medical University.

You have to say it with the right accent though, think British, and emphasize the word "worm", in a British accent, every time you say it. :D
 
O.K here is, the recipe -

For approx 20 chickens - ( just double, half etc all the ingredients for your sized flock )
Heat 2Litres of milk, add 2 whole cloves of crushed garlic ( deep purple is preferred ) to the milk. To this add 6 finely chopped chillies then add 1 tablespoon of ground Paprika and Turmeric.

Warm all this mixture to a nice eatable heat that you could eat then let it stand over night. Warm again just before you feed it to the flock, don't make it to hot this time. Add the milk mixture to 2 kilogram of your chickens feed ( 2kg is the amount for the 20 chickens, if you doubled the mixture then use 4kg of chicken feed ).

If you birds are full of worms, grate 2 whole raw carrots into each kilogram of chicken feed.
Add everything together and feed to your flock, they should LOVE it!!

Good luck, tell us how it goes!
 
If your eggs are coming out covered in poop then your chickens have worms. DE works really well i only put it in there food for three days every two months and it protects them and keeps the eggs clean. As well DE works well to get rid of lice and mites, which can kill chickens. For that you need to sprinkle DE on the ground outside and inside the hut and in the boxes.
 

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