dog and cat nutrition. To believe vets or not

I feed my 65lb. super active, athletic, well muscled Belgian Malinois 1 slightly rounded cup of EVO twice a day. Yep-- it comes out to only 2 1/4 cups total! It cost us $51 for a 27 lb. bag and lasts about a month. She was eating 4 cups a day of Nutro when we got her and she was too lean and her coat was no where near as good as it looks when fed

My dog is the same size and weight and type, and eats less than that of his 25 dollar a bag food a day. So it may not be true that 'you feed less of it'.

I pretty much agree with the vet said in the first post.

In fact, I am very leery of vets who do different from that vet, and insist you have to buy Brand X. Normally, if a vet is pushing a specific product, rather than telling me HOW to select a product, and what is essential and what is more a matter of opinion and choice, I generally run in the other direction.

But people get very, very impassioned and strong feelings about what to feed their pets. Their pets are like their children and they want to do what they think is best. People get AWFUL mad and they are VERY sure they are right. I've found it's another one of those areas where the best thing is to let people think what they want to think. I won't insist to anyone they must feed XYZ, I'll just say what I've come up with for my own dogs.

A lot of times, people get pulled in by advertising. For me, I found it was important not to take advertiser's claims too much to heart. Sometimes they really pull on people's heart strings, like you have to feed ABC or you're a bad mommy.

It's like dog breeds. People have their opinions. A lady at the park almost beat me up when she asked what kind of dog I had, I said, 'collie', and she insisted he was not. 'you're lying! he's maybe PART collie'. She had never seen a short haired collie, I guess. There we were winding up the windows of the car and peeling out of the parking lot as she is running after us, screaming, 'he is not a purebred collie!' My boyfriend says 'don't say 'collie', say 'what kind of dog would you like him to be?''

I spent a lot of time going over pet foods and the National Research Council information, as well as what studies are available.

Based on suffering through all that very dry material, I decided corn isn't a bad thing to feed dogs. In the wild, the first thing canids do is tear open the stomach of the deer, moose, etc, and eat the contents. They do eat grain in the wild. They eat just about anything. My Samoyed would eat raspberries off a bush, LOL.

After a lot of study, I decided the stool is larger and smells more because there is more bulk left over after corn is digested. It smells because that is just how the digestion of corn is - carbohydrates. I do think dogs need some carbohydrates. It provides energy and it's normal for them to eat some. I don't think a high amount of protein in the feed, way over the NRC guidelines, is really necessary.

I don't like to go way way overboard on trying to find the food that makes the tiniest poop. I think the dog's digestive system needs some buik and some roughage. I don't mind if there is some of that in the food. I am not much trhilled by the giant bright pink dyed pile of diarrhea, I think if that's the result maybe that isn't tbe best food.

Too, I think dogs are somewhat individual and it varies from breed to breed. What I can feed my collie, I never would have tried on my sighthounds.

At the same time I found that some people were trying to cram so much rich nutrition into their sighthounds they were getting a lot of cases of joint problems and puppy lameness. With a dog that is going to grow a lot I think it's important not to try and 'make them get even bigger'. So after listening to a lot of trials and tribulations and people feeding all sorts of oils, cottage cheese, egg, and having their dogs go so lame, I decided to just feed what the breeder fed and keep it simple. More is not necessarily better. On the other hand, my friend fed all kinds of stuff to her Doberman pup and he was fine, no joint problems. Again I think one has to know the breed they have.

Same with the growthier horses...my friend 'nutritioned' and 'supplemented' her young warmblood to death - at 18 months they had to put him down. In Europe, a lot of time they feed them a very plain hay or even chopped straw, and try to keep them showing some rib at 6 months, one and two...in the US, some people have found they just can't feed warmbloods so much.

My Samoyed on the other hand was like a vacuum cleaner, could eat anything and look great.

Corn doesn't go well with some dogs. I like getting the advice of the breeder, they often know what feed their dogs seem to do best on.

I don't buy the cheapest food, but I also don't buy the most expensive. I'm also careful to read the news. If the company gets sold I watch how things go, maybe the new owner will try to cut more corners, or not.

But say, when a big local feed company changed hands, the sellers of BRand X started moving in and putting a lot of pressure on the region. They saw it as an opportunity to sell sell sell. They started saying the new manager was putting in a lot of filler in the other company's product, they were feeding more and more and getting less results. Pretty soon, all the horse people around were repeating those exact words, and believing it. They all switched over to the new competitor. I did try the product, for a while I couldn't even get the old product. It made my old horse hypervigilant and aggressive. back to the old product, we drive to where it is...LOL. If something is working, I probably won't change it, no matter what I hear in my ear.

I read the ingredients, but the package doesn't really give a good idea. The label says what is the 'leading ingredient' and some percentages, but that doesn't really tell the whole story, it depends on how it is measured.

I figure to sell a huge bag of dog food for nine bucks, they are cutting corners somewhere, maybe the processing plant is kind of a cheap one, and maybe some mistakes are made in mixing or not cleaning the machines after other foods and products are handled. Maybe some of the ingredients are not as good.

And if a dog food is the most expensive one on the shelf, I figure some of that is razzle dazzle and marketing, and not real value. I was in the marketing department too long, LOL.


So that's how I do. YMMV.
 
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beekissed said:
That's funny that you should mention this feed ratio....I have a Lab mix of the same wt. as your dog and I feed him the same amount of dog food~but its Ol' Roy and it costs $18 for a 40 lb. bag that lasts well over a month and well into the second month. He is glossy and very high energy, muscle bound and the picture of health. He has only been to the vet to be neutered...he is four years old. I only vet if the dog has a problem....apparently he has no problems.


Apparently as far as you know. The natural homeostasis will keep the pet in working condition for as long as it can on a minimum of nutrients. Once that is depleted than disease of the body may appear.

Of course, my dog is an outside dog and supplements his diet with apples, mice, eggs, veggies and anything else he wants to eat in his day.
So you feel good about feeding very poor quality dog food because he supplements it. Your choice, but definitely not mine. This thread is about what is a good diet. Supplementing with hunting may not be an option for the OP. If you read my previous post you would have seen I recommended feed what you can afford after researching and then supplement with meats and veggies.

[b]Here's a theory....maybe dogs weren't really meant to live for 22 years. In the wild they certainly wouldn't and this is a great feature that helps with dog population control. When one dog dies, this leaves space for another dog to exist.

Think of all those dogs sitting in shelters, waiting for your 22 yr old dog to kick the bucket so he can be placed in your home...but you keep feeding all that high dollar feed to make your dog have an unnaturally long life....meanwhile, little Spot is waiting patiently at the pound for you to let the old mutt die so a young mutt can take his place.
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It's the ultimate in recycling and it also solves the growing problem with overcrowded animal shelters...."


So you are saying that I should feed marginal food to the pet I chose to love and care for just so I can adopt another sooner? It is a theory, but not a viable one in my mind.

All of my pet's have been spayed which is very responsible and I check for parasites regularly to avoid inflicting the society of more unwanted pets or disease caused by vectors. I also volunteer my time by giving free behavior consults to help folks keep their pet and not take him/her back to the pound, or worse--dump the pet on the streets. If I can do all of this and feed my pets the best why should I not? It is my right to do so as it is yours to not do so. If you don't care how long your pets live a healthy long life in order to adopt another pet sooner than you have that right.
 
I ain't so sure I'd feed a feed I knew would make my dog die sooner so I could get a new one.

I think some dogs do very well in the cheaper feeds. I think some don't. We got a sample of one of those forty dollar feeds, and it made my dog as sick as...a dog....Another dog might be just fine on it.

But I don't think it's really clear that all the cheap dog foods are bad and will make a dog live less long...I don't think it's clear that the top price feeds will make the dog live longer, either.

I would need to see a lot of big research studies finding the same results, over and over, and controlled for other variations in management and care. If it ever really was found that feeding a fifty dollar feed instead of a thirty dollar feed, did make a significant and consistent difference in life span and made it longer, without other negative aspects, I would feed the more expensive feed. But that hasn't been proven. Except in studies done by the manufacturer, and in advertising claims, there is no evidence that all cheap feeds shorten life or that all top price feeds lengthen life.

I used to buy Peerless which was incredibly cheap and was a wonderful feed. For decades, I got Iams Eukenuba, but the prices just got so high. So I found a company that uses a lamb/rice recipe and analyzed reallly about the same as the top price brands.
 
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Welsummerchicks--I agree with much of what you said. Some folks do over supplement and therefore disturb a healthy balance of nutrients causing more harm than good! That's why its tough to listen to everything and not be confused or even suspicious.

Marketing pet food is extremely fierce. Having looked at the ingredients of some of the heavily marketed foods show they are poor quality at best. That's why there is help--I use this website: http://www.dogfoodanalysis.com/dog_food_reviews/index.php Eye opening!!
 
yup, I looked at that, but it's just comments of people that log in, there's no research or actual comparisons or analyses....too for most feed there is only one comment, so that's not much.

So it's basically like us all up in here, saying, my feed's good, and the other guy says, mine's better, and pretty soon we is scratchin' and a clawin'. No one likes to be made out to not be taking good care of their animals. If the feed you have is keeping your dog in good healthy condition and you and your vet are satisfied, I'm thinkin', that's the right food for your dog.
 
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Not to change the direction of this thread, but can someone tell me if it is OK to give raw eggs to small kittens? I have 3 bunches of unexpected kittens right now, and am having issues with worms and fleas. I was hoping that giving them the broken eggs from the henhouse for protien and some of that DE for parasites, that I might be able to save these poor little guys. Any ideas?
 
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I wouldnt do it... the eggs wont help with ANYTHING to do with fleas and worms.
Get them some worm meds and flea meds... Thats your best bet to help them out.
 
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cook the eggs first and mash them up (no shells) for added protein, but they need a complete kitten food, a wormer med and a flea product, and PLEASE do NOT use the cheap junk on them like zodiac, hartz, or seargents, (these products can caused a reaction that can kill them!) use something SAFE from your vet. Or if they are too young, use a bath and a flea comb!
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Oh yes I hear the arguing and the fussing over food constantly. My dh is a manager at a big pet retailer. He can point out 5 foods that are decent and wont wreck most budgets and people still buy the most expensive product thinking because it costs the most it’s the best.

The other thing is dealing with my mom and listening to her complain about what I feed my older horse, see if this sounds familiar to anyone.

20 year old qh gelding. Just 16 hands, as in 16 hands with shoes on. Right now 1100 pounds. Lean, fit, think professional runners build. Can see a few ribs if you bend him just the right way. Also has arthritis cause he’s older and has worked insanely hard his whole life. Gets a decent quality feed with a joint supplement cause of the arthritis and a little bit of weight gain because I can feed him less grain that way and to me less grain is always good. Gets all the good quality hay he can eat and all the spectacular pasture he can eat.

Never good enough for my mother…did I mention I’m a grown adult with my own family. She gets hysterical that he’s not eating at least 20 pounds of sr feed a sitting. Even when she knows full well all the extra fiber in sr feed gives him the scooters because he already eats a ton of fiber and has perfect teeth. Is constantly hysterical that he doesn’t weigh at least 1300 pounds like he did way back in the day when he was 6 and had 3 kids showing him full time. This horse looks fantastic and yet because it’s the popular thing in my region now to have massively obese stock horses my mother still complains.

My advice like a few others here is to ignore the ranting and hysteria and feed the animal what they do well on. Ignore the price, ignore other peoples opinions, if they do good and are looking great leave them be and don’t mess with it.
 
I think it is more important than to point out X food and tell people to use it, but to take the time to explain to them what is better for their dogs. That way they can make informed choices about the food they get for their dogs. From there, they can decide whether they want spend the money or not for a different quality brand that is healthier (or not) for their pups.
I would love to teach and show all the people that use the boarding facility I work at the quality of the food they are feeding their dogs, and since they care so much for their pets to spend $30 a night, I think they'd be willing to pay for a better food.
Anyway the point is, I would rather teach them to fish rather than to give them fish.

Is bock around anymore? How're things going?
 

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