Dubbing OEG combs/ wattles?

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When the standards for the game breeds were being considered, it was custom to dub the males of those breeds. The Standard simply adopted it as the required look and it's remained that way. Like docking a puppy's tail for show standards.
 
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After living in South Carolina for 18 yrs I learned a lot about dubbing old english games

they are a breed that can be dubbed by following the line in their comb that comes with hatch

from front to back and then come down straight in the back

also only cut just what you have to on the ear lobes so the skin does not have to grown bak

when dubbing modern games one dubbs all the area under the chin off so that the skin has to grown back and make the Modern game snake headed

the healing pulls the heake tight

you do not want this to happen on a old english game

I learned from the best Ralph sheriff Sr and Jr

as they have shown Old English game bantams for 60 yrs

and it is wise to buy a good brand of sissors

we got ours froma surgical supply house

and do not buy china made sissors as they do not use hardened steel

any questions email me
 
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That comb line is so convenient! I like to leave a slightly larger nub in the back, but it's a great guideline for the curve. I have a book that says to "cut 1/8th of an inch from the blade at a 45 degree angle. Then remove the points and round the nub." That method leaves a lot of room for error, but if it's done right I think it looks nice.

That's really interesting about the tightness of the skin. Good to know. But I don't think I'd feel comfortable removing that much tissue on a concious bird. I'll give it a shot this year though. I've got plenty of Modern cockerels this year.
 
That is why you don't pull the wattles when dubbing. If you take off too much, it can heal tight, and be constrictive. If done right, there is just a slit where the wattle was, not a gaping hole.
 
Oh dear gawd..... I had to do my first dub today. Did not go so well. I am sitting here typing with blood stains under my nails and a rooster in the freezer. My hens picked a tiny little spot on his comb to the point the blood was getting in his eyes and nose holes. So I figered I'd give it a try...I dubbed the poor boy and it just would not stop bleeding. I tried everything. I even went to petco and bought a bottle of stiptic powder (for 10.00!) (not cheap to end up with my one of my boys in the freezer!) Maybe I cut too far up on the comb? Maybe I did not "follow the line" I don't know what happened But, I guess it is all just a lesson learned eh? I followed all the tips and tricks on the page. But, it just seemed cruel at the point of my rooster feeling light headed and acting fainty. I took him out of his misery after about 2 hours of bleeding. N:(ow the hens will have one less thing to peck at! Blah! WHAT A DAY!
 
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One thing that you need to consider when dubbing; make sure that the moon is in the right phase. Most "old-timers" swear by it. And If you ever read anything about the moon phases, nearing the full moon makes the blood run "higher" in most all species. Any one who works at an institution for mentally disturbed can tell you that. Also, after several bouts with helping dub cockerals, and then castrating bull calves, even the most skeptic will prefer to wait until the moon is in the last-quarter to the new moon (dark). An old-time remedy is to use cobwebs to stop the bleeding but ...... We do not even "band" our bull calves unless the moon is in the right phase anymore. I am not so well versed to do everything by the moon, like planting all things in the garden, but with the dubbing and castrating it definitely does make a difference.

Find someone at a purebred poultry show who raises O.E. or Modern Games, and get some help. Most fanciers will help "newbies" if you are respectful and genuinely interested in learning. Doesn't mean you have to raise show birds; but the fanciers are the ones who have kept the genetic pool of breeds/color patterns alive by their dedication.

One of the reasons that the game breeds are dubbed is because they were originally bred for "gaming" (fighting) and the roosters can't grab the comb or wattles if they have been removed by dubbing. It was a way of life and most game breeds are feisty, they make GREAT mothers as they will often tackle anything that bothers their chicks. It's in their genetics.
 
It was my little girls that started this injury. I think he may have had one peck him in the comb and then it just took off to a full blown injury. I would not dub unless I had to. (the ladies did not seem to mind what the phase of the moon is when they start pecking lol) He was bleeding so bad I had to try something. Even the culling did not go smoothly on this fellah. He fought me and I got the cut wrong. The disarticulation did not go well. The entire night was just a mess up from the get go. My landlord was there and I had to hide while doing all of this. He is a little bit freaked out by my flock. He is retired FBI, New York-New York, big city kind of guy. He just had a heart attack and wont consider eating one of my chickens because he does not like the thought of them being killed on his property. He eats that trash they sell at the store though. I wish he would just try mine. They would be so much better for him and his recovery. Sorry to lose one of my boys but I have 3 others that need to be culled. Now, I am kinda scared to do it! Live and learn...
 
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Sorry to hear about your ordeal, I've dubbed several of my roosters so far and luckily I haven't lost one. I've had some bad bleeders though and dubbed the walnut comb on one of my best birds the other night. God what a mess, he lost a ton of blood, even with Syptic Powder. I thought for sure he was a goner. He is still pale two days later and strangely his eyes have gone from red to pale orange, but he is eating and otherwise acting normal. Your mistake seems to be putting him back in the pen with other chickens who picked the wound. It is important to put them alone in a calm environment for several days to allow the healing process to start.

On a side note, I have tried the moon phase thing and they bled just as bad if not worse, so I will call BS on that one.
 
ive dubbed hundreds of roosters. never had one die. i also dont believe in the 'signs' ive experimented different times. and ive personally found sometimes they bleed sometimes they bleed very little. the 'signs' didnt mean anything. with that said. i know many, many guys that swear by the signs.

the OEGB are supposed to leave about a 1/4 of comb or so. a standard american game you can leave a little which is old school look or take it off tight to the skull. i prefer taking it all off. i pull the wattles slightly so it leaves a pretty good gash. when it heals, the skin is nice and tight. same with the lobes. pull them up slightly when cutting.

it takes no time for them to heal up. if they bleed heavely from the comb. then pull a hackle feather out and place it on top of the bleeding comb. it really helps clot the blood. the scab forms around the feather, and then the scab falls off in a week the fearther goes with it.

nothing looks better than a nice high and tight trim job on a game rooster.
 
OK, am I the only one who thinks this is JUST WRONG????? Tail docking, ear cropping too. Why do we change what nature has given these animals and make it the norm???? It doesn't make sense. Maybe with roos to keep them from getting injured if they fight among their selves. It HAS to be painful!!! C"mon!
 

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