East Texas Coop and Run

[wwdubose]

Just got started on building my new coop and run under an L-shaped section of an existing shed that will eventually be housing my 15 hens. It will be built under the back overhang and side shed of my work shop. The back overhang will include a 6' x 9' coop and approx 54 square foot of the run. The roof of the coop and this section of the run will be an existing overhead decked area I built years ago for my boys to use as a fort. The rest of the run will be under the side shed and will be an additional 210 square feet.

Below is the start of the coop. It will be a walk-in coop with approx 6-1/2' of headroom to the bottom of the joist overhead. Door will be on the near end, four exterior nest boxes, on the far end.



This view is looking at the back section from what will be the 10' x 21' side section of the run.




Check back in for more updates!

Wayne

 

[wwdubose]

Had a question about ventilation...the decking above will serve as the roof of the coop and the boards have about 3/16" space/opening between each. I am putting two small windows on either side of the walk-in door (north end) and a larger window on the back (south) and side (east). All windows will hinge open from the bottom. Do I also need to put an additional vent above the window on the south side, or will these windows along with the spacing between the deck boards above be adequate ventilation? Also, would there be any benefits to adding ventilation slots along the bottom of the coop, just above the litter level?

 

[mshuntjump]

Honestly, the best things for chickens that are not free ranged, is to use secure dog cage panels instead of closing the coop in all the way like a house. This allows a lot of ventilation and gives the birds the idea that they're outside. They will be a lot less stressed this way- and of course, any living thing needs some sunlight to feel good. If you're interested, I can show you photos of my coop if you'd like.

 

[wwdubose]

Honestly, the best things for chickens that are not free ranged, is to use secure dog cage panels instead of closing the coop in all the way like a house. This allows a lot of ventilation and gives the birds the idea that they're outside. They will be a lot less stressed this way- and of course, any living thing needs some sunlight to feel good. If you're interested, I can show you photos of my coop if you'd like.

Although their run will only be 6'x9', they will have access to the covered, fully secure run area 24/7 which will be an additional 250 square feet.

As far as ventilation In the coop, I've decided to put a 6" wide vent high up on the back and side wall. These will be in addition to the two large windows that will hinge open. I am also constructing a dutch door for the people door and plan to leave the top portion open also in warmer weather.

 

[wwdubose]

Construction of the coop was put on hold this so I could finish building my chick brooder. The brooder is 3' x 4' and will house the chicks for the first 3-4 weeks (hopefully). After they outgrow this brooder, I will move them to a larger brooder set up on the floor of my shop. This will be their home until they are big enough to go into the coop.

Below are some vintage nest boxes I acquired this past weekend. The single hole will be mounted on the outside wall of the coop, next to the people door and the six hole box will be mounted on the side of our shed in the larger section of the run. They will serve as both decoration and an outside nesting option for the ladies.

I bought the pair of stained-glass windows below on eBay and found the other two vintage windows at a local antique shop. The stained-glass windows will go on either side of the entrance door to the coop and the two larger windows will be for the back and side of the coop.

Before the chicks arrived, I made one last minute adjustment to the brooder by adding an electrical box on the outside containing a dimmer switch and an outlet for the two 250 watt heat lamps. This way I can control the temperature in the brooder without ever having to raise or lower the lamps.

I received a call from the post office at 7:45 this past Friday morning, notifying me that our chicks had arrived! We had one casualty out of the fifteen chicks order. One of the Australorp chicks did not survive the long journey from Ohio. The rest of the flock is healthy and active with none having splayed legs or crossed beaks. They have adjusted well and all have been eating, drinking, and sleeping.

The chicks below from left to right are a Silver Laced Wyandotte, an Australorp, and a Barred Plymouth Rock.

My better half and the largest chick of the flock, one of our three Buff Orpingtons

Now that the chicks are settled in and adjusting to the brooder, I started back working on the coop and run again this weekend. Below is a panorama of the coop and run area to give you more of an ideal of the size and layout. The platform to the left will be the 6' x 9' coop. The rest of the area between the shed walls and the posts will be the totally secured, L-shaped run. The front or entrance wall to the run will be directly behind the swing with the screened door to the run between the swing and the shed wall. Total square footage of the run will be approx. 250 square feet.

 

[wwdubose]

Five days old and wing feathers are now visible. When they aren't eatin' and poopin', they're sleepin'. This was taken after they ran around for fifteen minutes, playing keep away with the worm we gave them.

 

[Alaskan]

Way too cute! And I think that your coop and run plans sound fantastic!

 

[cosmo1104]

dang bro, you're making me jealous. I wish I had the room for that, lucky chickens.

 

[mshuntjump]

Good looking chicks. Love the buffs.

 

[aart]

Cool build!

Why are the nesting boxes in the run instead of the coop? Nice nesting boxes<envy>

So funny how they look like they drop dead after running around!