Eastern Tennessee Thread

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stang...
must be in the air with the hatches. I had 6 out of 12 early quit on me. I had one zip last night and is healthy and happy, but the other 5 have not started to pip and are quiet. I am preparing myself for the worst hatch I have ever seen
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Don't say that I hope it's not in the air. I am setting 24 Serama eggs tonight. I need good hatching vibes.
 
Lunar: I cant figure out how to add pix but I sent you a pm and I have their pix in my photos. I can email them also. Thanks very much if anyone wants some beautiful birds they are free.
Nice roo's. I sent you a reply with some instructions. I hope they made sense. I wish I had more room for another roo. I would take that one you have if I had a spare pen to put him in. They are both really pretty birds.
 
You are right. I forgot all about that. I am going to take a picture of him and post on here and see what everyone thinks. It very well could be sun damage.
When I had the Lavenders AJ has now ..sunburn was a problem. I am pretty sure that is your problem. I can't think of anything genetically that would cause that. If you can keep him out of the sun after the upcoming spring molt and see if it goes away. Sometimes certain feeds can do that too but I can't remember what it is in feed that does that.
 
When I had the Lavenders AJ has now ..sunburn was a problem. I am pretty sure that is your problem. I can't think of anything genetically that would cause that. If you can keep him out of the sun after the upcoming spring molt and see if it goes away. Sometimes certain feeds can do that too but I can't remember what it is in feed that does that.

I forgot about the feed-thing. I know corn too much corn will make their legs more yellow.

My blue orps don't turn yellow, they turn more brown in the sun. You don't really notice how dull their feathers are until they molt.
 
ok peeps, blame AJ for this post.
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We have been chatting about how to keep these Serama's warm. So I have been trying to create something to accomidate them in my coop. I have 4x6ft of floor space and 2 roosts to work around. so this is what I did.

Got some 1"x12" shelving boards and cut 2 to be 3 feet long for my top/back. The other foot I cut off were trimmed a bit and used for the sides.


the box is 1'H x 3'L x 1'W Just big enough for the Seramas to get into.

Then we drilled a hold to accomidate a 75w fixture.
Make sure your hole is far enough away from the side/back to attach your bell inside.

Then we cut a board 28" long for the front. This left 8" or so for a doorway on the far end away from the light.



Time for the light. We removed the bell and put the fixture thru the hole. It is smaller on the bulb end than the switch part, so it sat right against that part in the hole. Then I reattached the bell on the inside of the box. This keeps it from moving or wiggling.


Then we used a spare part of wood that we had cut off to put a top on the doorway. This will keep some of the heat inside (as heat rises) even close to the door.

The door is on the other end away from the light to give them room to get inside and still not be right on top of the light.

Finished product includes a thermometer inside, just about mid way, so you can see it diagonally from the door.



I used it last night. 29 degrees outside, 50 in the coop with this and a 250w bulb in one corner over the roosts. 55 degrees in this box with only a 25w bulb and all 3 of my Seramas were inside it this morning when I went to feed/water. The lonely D'uccle was happy in her nest box giving me her daily egg.
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It doesn't look like much, but it went under my roosts and it fits the Seramas nicely. My dad called it my Serama Motel. He said it looked like a giant "Ant Motel"
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I am going to try to find a piece of linoleum to tack on the top to make it easy to clean.
 
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