EDUCATIONAL INCUBATION & HATCHING CHAT THREAD, w/ Sally Sunshine Shipped Eggs

@Pensmaster
HPIM0427 (1).JPG
See the bow in that top rail? Same on the opposite side. Green lumber, I guess. Any way to pull it out? I'm thinking maybe a ratchet strap, or allthread.
 
@Pensmaster
View attachment 1476751
See the bow in that top rail? Same on the opposite side. Green lumber, I guess. Any way to pull it out? I'm thinking maybe a ratchet strap, or allthread.
Ok just off the top thinking here. Could the top rail be laid the other direction flat on top of the corners. A middle support would be run under it. Much the same way we would frame a shop wall. The bow could then be pulled out with screws to the center board
 
Ok just off the top thinking here. Could the top rail be laid the other direction flat on top of the corners. A middle support would be run under it. Much the same way we would frame a shop wall. The bow could then be pulled out with screws to the center board
I see what you're saying, but all the joints, or most of them, anyway, are half-lapped; won't make that mistake again. Cattle panels are also secured to the inside of the rails in the present configuration. If there's no way to straighten it out without dismantling it, I'll just put up with it 'til I can't stand the sight of it any longer.
 
I see what you're saying, but all the joints, or most of them, anyway, are half-lapped; won't make that mistake again. Cattle panels are also secured to the inside of the rails in the present configuration. If there's no way to straighten it out without dismantling it, I'll just put up with it 'til I can't stand the sight of it any longer.

Can you make a relief cut in the center and brace it straighter
 
Can you make a relief cut in the center and brace it straighter
I don't know what a relief cut is, but I've thought about wedging a 2x4 in a little bit at a time, hoping it will eventually straighten out. It'd make a decent roost, as well.

eta...Obviously, the rails are bowed outward, not inward, so wedging anything in between them isn't possible. That dawned on me, finally, in the middle of the night, during a dream; must have been having a senior moment originally.

I do, however, think I know what I can do, if it will work. The bottom edge of the stock panels are secured to the rails with U-bolts, which are large enough to accept the hooks on a ratchet strap if I back off on the nuts a bit. I should be able to draw the centers of the two rails inward, a little at a time if need be, 'til I can screw a 2x4 in place, and further secure it with L brackets. It would also make a fine roost if the 3.5" side were up.

Make sense?
 
Last edited:
@Pensmaster
View attachment 1476751
See the bow in that top rail? Same on the opposite side. Green lumber, I guess. Any way to pull it out? I'm thinking maybe a ratchet strap, or allthread.
Ok now that I am back inside and not on phone here’s what I would do. If you can, finish cutting through the lap joint if not it can be done without cuts they will probably break at the joint anyway. Take a 2x4 the entire length of warped board, drill holes into the new board horizontally, larger than that of your screws diameter but smaller than the head of the screw. These screws will need to be 4&1/2 to 5” in length. It might help to have small washers for the screws as well. If you have c clamps or longer, clamp the new board to the warped board and get it to move as much as possible the screws will do the rest of the work for you. How many screws will depend on the strength of the existing board which shouldn’t give too much resistance. Lag screws would work as well or bolts that are long enough.
Do this from inside the cage
 
Last edited:
Ok now that I am back inside and not on phone here’s what I would do. If you can, finish cutting through the lap joint if not it can be done without cuts they will probably break at the joint anyway. Take a 2x4 the entire length of warped board, drill holes into the new board horizontally, larger than that of your screws diameter but smaller than the head of the screw. These screws will need to be 4&1/2 to 5” in length. It might help to have small washers for the screws as well. If you have c clamps or longer, clamp the new board to the warped board and get it to move as much as possible the screws will do the rest of the work for you. How many screws will depend on the strength of the existing board which shouldn’t give too much resistance. Lag screws would work as well or bolts that are long enough.
Do this from inside the cage
That should work, too, but see what you think of the edit I added to post 90325. We've been overthinking this whole problem.
 

New posts New threads Active threads

Back
Top Bottom