EDUCATIONAL INCUBATION & HATCHING CHAT THREAD, w/ Sally Sunshine Shipped Eggs

[Sally Sunshine]

Also want to add that I never use the INS numbers or the acid breakdown part, I find it's overly complicated and unnecessary. Plus just because your numbers look good doesn't mean you'll like the bar the recipe makes! According to Soapcalc my olive oil bars are awful and my tallow bars should dry out your skin terribly but people adore my tallow bars for how gentle they are and I love 100% olive oil soaps. Plus no having to calculate in my head what to do if I discount water for a higher superfat.

I am also finding out, most soapers say keep the cleaning to under 13 AT LEAST or the bar will dry out the skin so keep coconut oils and the cleaning properties a t low levels???? thoughts on this? oh and never use more than 5% castor or it makes the bar sticky? sorry I took notes as I read lmao

 

[Sally Sunshine]

This sentence can be explained in SO MANY ways. ......

 

[Sally Sunshine]

Phil! hello stranger!

 

[Sally Sunshine]

Ask me, maybe I can help.

Benny and @hippiestink

My issues with super fatting soaps.....

Though it makes sense if I add SF at a light trace,( or in my case AFTER soponication and lower than 160 degrees) that it will make the soap more "nutritious" errr nourishing because most of the lye has been neutralized as it's already paired with a fat molecule, but thats not the case is it? because no matter when I add the fats the PH always ends up the same. Am I overthinking or does this PH have nothing to do with the nourishing factor?

How do temps add in all this? I HotProcess, I dont add goats milk to lye anymore, I mix lye with cold water, I add the milk AFTER temp is down for Hot process to 160 AFTER saponication, and also add the fragrances. What I am doing, is this the best time to add milk and fragrances for Hot Process?

Now the SF % in calculators, is it best to just use a set % in the calculators for SF to 5% or below and dont add extra Oils and is it ok to still add the goats milk as long as I dont go overboard with them? or should I still discount the half cup of milk added after soponication? And ummm yeah, Goats milk has FAT so ummm how does this play in those oils? lol this is getting confusing

And what stage is Sodium Lactate added if used?
or Steric acid?

 

[venymae]

Didn't read anything today! Sorry wonderful people!

Questions: what's your opinion on humidity during lockdown? If air cells are looking good, can you get it too high? And what is your preferred temp for lockdown?

Busy day with the family today, little guy will be up from his nap soon, so I better get hopping!

 

[Christinecam]

Didn't read anything today! Sorry wonderful people!

Questions: what's your opinion on humidity during lockdown? If air cells are looking good, can you get it too high? And what is your preferred temp for lockdown?

Busy day with the family today, little guy will be up from his nap soon, so I better get hopping!

Same here! And I’ve got similar questions!
I put my seramas on lockdown with my polish. The seramas definitely are doing well but out of 7, 6 at least are malpositioned. I lost 2 last time because of this. :/ I’ve got my temp at 98.5 - 99 and humidity from 60 - 63

 

[hippiestink]

Benny and @hippiestink

My issues with super fatting soaps.....

Though it makes sense if I add SF at a light trace,( or in my case AFTER soponication and lower than 160 degrees) that it will make the soap more "nutritious" errr nourishing because most of the lye has been neutralized as it's already paired with a fat molecule, but thats not the case is it? because no matter when I add the fats the PH always ends up the same. Am I overthinking or does this PH have nothing to do with the nourishing factor?

How do temps add in all this? I HotProcess, I dont add goats milk to lye anymore, I mix lye with cold water, I add the milk AFTER temp is down for Hot process to 160 AFTER saponication, and also add the fragrances. What I am doing, is this the best time to add milk and fragrances for Hot Process?

Now the SF % in calculators, is it best to just use a set % in the calculators for SF to 5% or below and dont add extra Oils and is it ok to still add the goats milk as long as I dont go overboard with them? or should I still discount the half cup of milk added after soponication? And ummm yeah, Goats milk has FAT so ummm how does this play in those oils? lol this is getting confusing

And what stage is Sodium Lactate added if used?
or Steric acid?

PH has nothing to do with superfat. If the Ph is effected by the superfat it's usually negligible so for the purposes of soapmaking it's not something to worry about. As for temps, temps only really effect your fragrance and colors which is why it's suggested to add those after processing but before putting the soap in the mold. Sodium Lactate is added to the lye water before you mix your oils and lye water.

The only time I've heard of adding things to your soap like yogurt or milk after the cooking process is if you're doing what's called fluid hot process, where you're purposely adding liquid to make the HP soap fluid and pourable. If you're not trying to do this method, then you'd replace your water amount with the same weight of goat's milk and freeze the milk into cubes, THEN add the lye to the frozen cubes and mix until all the milk has liquidized and the lye is fully dissolved. Hot processing will always cause browning in milk soaps, which is fine if you don't want white soap but isn't desirable if you want white soap. If you want goat's milk in your HP soap but want soap that isn't brown here's a great link to fluid hot processing: https://ridgewaysoapworks.wordpress...ps-to-better-hot-process-soap/comment-page-1/

If you don't want to add the milk to the lye, then here's what you do: you discount the weight of your milk from the water amount (so if you're doing a recipe with 50 g water but want 30 g milk then you'd use 20 g water) and add the lye to the water, then after you mix your lye water and oils you get the lye water and oils to trace, cook, and then at the vaseline stage you'd add in your milk and fragrances.

Re: soap calculators' superfat percentages, you DON'T add any extra soapmaking oils, and fragrances don't count towards superfat because they aren't fatty oils they're ethers. In regards to the extra fat in goat's milk, I've found that adding milk doesn't effect the superfat all that much. It only really causes a difference if you're using heavy cream, in which case you can go with a lower superfat than you'd normally use. In your case if it makes you uncomfortable, you can start with a 2% superfat and test the results. If you find it's not moisturizing enough for you then try a higher percentage and just keep going until you find one you like. For me anything over 5% superfat makes the bar slimy and not pleasant to use.

 

[Akrnaf2]

Benny and @hippiestink

My issues with super fatting soaps.....

Though it makes sense if I add SF at a light trace,( or in my case AFTER soponication and lower than 160 degrees) that it will make the soap more "nutritious" errr nourishing because most of the lye has been neutralized as it's already paired with a fat molecule, but thats not the case is it? because no matter when I add the fats the PH always ends up the same. Am I overthinking or does this PH have nothing to do with the nourishing factor?

How do temps add in all this? I HotProcess, I dont add goats milk to lye anymore, I mix lye with cold water, I add the milk AFTER temp is down for Hot process to 160 AFTER saponication, and also add the fragrances. What I am doing, is this the best time to add milk and fragrances for Hot Process?

Now the SF % in calculators, is it best to just use a set % in the calculators for SF to 5% or below and dont add extra Oils and is it ok to still add the goats milk as long as I dont go overboard with them? or should I still discount the half cup of milk added after soponication? And ummm yeah, Goats milk has FAT so ummm how does this play in those oils? lol this is getting confusing

And what stage is Sodium Lactate added if used?
or Steric acid?

Sally I never made a sope
But the lye, borax compound is basically an emulsifier that connect the fatty fraction with the water and the water soluble compounds.
PH is a scale that indicate the acidity levels of a watery compound.
P is an indicator of -log and H is the Hydrogen concentration (or if to be more accurate the Hydronium , H3O+ concentration !) As low the ph of a compound is so HIGE the acidity is!
Ph2 is 10 time MORE acid then ph3!
You can change the ph by adding acid (substances that have ph lower then 7) to lower the ph or bases (substances that have PH higher then 7) to raise the PH. So if you want to know the influence of adding fats on the total ph you should know their ph level.
I hope that I could help in something.

 

[Sally Sunshine]

I take temps down to 99 day 18 and 19 then 98 for hatch....

humidity all depends on those air cells!

if eggs are spot on at lockdown run at 70-72
if eggs have lost too much, run higher
if not enough run lower until first pips then up to 75

I up alot at actual hatch pip time,easily in the 80's but I loose more weight than suggested 13% as I run a hotter dryer bator from start.

Its ALL about the eggs ladies!! each hatch is different!!

 

[hippiestink]

I am also finding out, most soapers say keep the cleaning to under 13 AT LEAST or the bar will dry out the skin so keep coconut oils and the cleaning properties a t low levels???? thoughts on this? oh and never use more than 5% castor or it makes the bar sticky? sorry I took notes as I read lmao

Those soapers clearly are too focused on the INS numbers. Most people with soaping businesses will tell you that the INS numbers are rather archaic and haven't been seriously studied since the 1930s. I actually never heard anything about INS until I was two years into researching soap making, and that was when I was playing with Soapcalc. Most people I read from in the soaping community never brought up INS.

INS assumes complete uniformity across ALL olive oils, castor oils, etc and the truth is that real olive oils and castor oils and such will always have a variable INS due to growing conditions, what water you shower in, what lye you're using, and a host of other things. Soap ion general can be sticky/slimy in cold hard water but behave wonderfully in warm soft water. Soap in general can be more cleansing in soft water but leave you feeling greasy in hard water.

Scientifically INS is interesting but not realistic, it really comes down to preference and the overwhelming majority of soap makers prefer to treat INS as a curiosity or guideline and just soap however they like. So don't stress if your soap recipe doesn't have perfect INS numbers, most people's holy grail recipes don't have perfect INS.

ETA: INS declares pure Marseilles soap (a pure olive oil soap) to be horrible at cleansing. Anyone who has used Marseilles soap will tell you it's anything but. INS numbers are a guideline, not a hard and fast rule!