Egg bound egg passed, now blood in diarrhea

[suzychappstick]

Hi guys, I have already posted a thread related to this, but there is a new issue now. My chicken had bright yellow diarrhea and I was wondering what the cause. Well I found out this morning she passed this egg like looking with bloody diarrhea. By the time I got back home she had eaten most of it. I thought she had egg yolk drop so I started to give her Tylan yesterday. My question is, any idea why there's blood in her diarrhea and should I continue with Tylan in her water to fight any infection or give her electrolytes to help bring it back to normal. We are leaving on vacation and going to be gone a week but I will have a neighbor checking on her. The first picture is what I found in her cage this morning. II is what was left of the egg thing she passed. The third is of the diarrhea I just found in the cage.

 

[azygous]

First of all, adding new developments to a previous thread is actually the best way to draw in responses as those thread participants are notified that there is a new update. Starting new threads on the same subject as previous threads is very counterproductive. Just a bit of advice from an old BYCer.

Now, to address your concern. The blood is a sign that injury may have occurred to the reproductive track and you're wise to have started the antibiotic immediately. I suggest you continue the full course of the Tylan which is five days.

Is your hen having contractions? How about a discharge running out of her vent? Is her vent pulsating heavily and is it swollen and trying to protrude? Is your hen showing signs of being in pain, squatting, perhaps tail held low and flat?

She may not have expelled all of the egg material. Sometimes bits of broken shell or membrane remain, and cause a lot of discomfort until it's all expelled. You can help the hen with a whole calcium tablet given orally once a day to help strengthen her contractions until her issue is resolved. I suggest this in addition to the antibiotic.

 

[suzychappstick]

Good and bad news. I returned from being out of town and she made it. However, now she has tiny little mites all over her. I gave her a dust bath yesterday by putting her in pillow case with diatomaceous earth. I just checked on her and they are still there. Also, the diatomaceous earth I have is Red Lake brand and it does not say food grade. Will that do more harm than good? She seems to be drinking ok. Water now contains probiotics and electrolytes. She does eat when I kind of wake her up, but she has lost a lot of weight. Should I try to get more food in her via tube/syringe, like liquid egg? She seems to be eating little bits of egg, yougurt, mealworms and applesauce. The blood from her stool is gone. I feel so bad for her, those mites are so annoying. I got a couple on me and they are driving me nuts. Are there any other treatments instead of the diatomaceous earth that would work better? I did move her to a new cage after I did the dust bath yesterday.

 

[azygous]

Frankly, anything would be as good as DE, meaning DE is worthless to treat mites and lice. The DE lobby seems to have convinced an awful lot of folks it somehow works as a organic pesticide. Not true.

Organic pesticides include permethrin and spinosad and they actually work. You will need to treat the coop, too, not just the chickens. You can get permethrin at any garden supply or pet store. Spinosad is sold as Elector PSP and is extremely effective, though extremely expensive. Amazon carries it.

Your hen needs to build up the energy to eat. Chickens that are sick or bullied can become so weak, they can't eat. Poultry Nutri-drench and tofu or soft boiled egg or boiled rice can help her energy levels which can improve her appetite.

 

[suzychappstick]

Frankly, anything would be as good as DE, meaning DE is worthless to treat mites and lice. The DE lobby seems to have convinced an awful lot of folks it somehow works as a organic pesticide. Not true.

Organic pesticides include permethrin and spinosad and they actually work. You will need to treat the coop, too, not just the chickens. You can get permethrin at any garden supply or pet store. Spinosad is sold as Elector PSP and is extremely effective, though extremely expensive. Amazon carries it.

Your hen needs to build up the energy to eat. Chickens that are sick or bullied can become so weak, they can't eat. Poultry Nutri-drench and tofu or soft boiled egg or boiled rice can help her energy levels which can improve her appetite.

Ok, I went and bought permethrin and treated her with that. Also, have Elector coming via amazon and put some Nutri-drench in her water. Do you happen to know how long it takes the permethrin work? And do I retreat if I still see mites? I would love to bring her inside and try to get her to eat, but really do not want a mite infestation in our house. She is in our heated garage right now on a heating pad. I gave her a quick bath to get the DE off her and maybe any mites. I just ran my hands all around her and did not see any on my hands.

 

[Eggcessive]

Permethrin works right away to kill mites and lice. The Permethrin 10 concentrate will make many gallons of product to use in a spray bottle for the chickens, or garden sprayer for the treatment of the coop. The permethrin dust is good to use in cold weather. Either can be reapplied every 7 days for mites, and every 10 days for lice. Lice leave clusters of white eggs at the base of feathers. They hatch within 10 days, so the need to retreat at least twice for either parasite. The Elector PSP is for the coop, nests, and roosts only. Removing the old bedding far away, treating the coop, and adding new bedding is recommended.

 

[suzychappstick]

Permethrin works right away to kill mites and lice. The Permethrin 10 concentrate will make many gallons of product to use in a spray bottle for the chickens, or garden sprayer for the treatment of the coop. The permethrin dust is good to use in cold weather. Either can be reapplied every 7 days for mites, and every 10 days for lice. Lice leave clusters of white eggs at the base of feathers. They hatch within 10 days, so the need to retreat at least twice for either parasite. The Elector PSP is for the coop, nests, and roosts only. Removing the old bedding far away, treating the coop, and adding new bedding is recommended.

Awesome, thank you so much for your help!!! The cages I had the sick hen in was absolutely covered in mites. They must have been hatching while she was in the garage. I went down to inspect the coops and other hens and couldn't find anything. I'll still get them all treated and Coop cleaned out real good and sprayed down. I'm just thankful they weren't as covered as much as she was.

 

[azygous]

Actually, Elector PSP can be used directly on chickens. It's a liquid so perhaps the permethrin dust would be better to use in the cold of winter for the chickens' treatment. I've mixed up Elector in a quart spray bottle and sprayed the skin to eliminate lice, and it kills the eggs, too. It works immediately and is so long lasting, I have forgotten when I treated last. I've never had mites, but Elector works on those mercilessly.

From what I've read, spraying coops with Elector just requires the one treatment, but mileage may vary if you have the conditions to foster a heavy infestation. Keep an eye on it and spray again if you see any new mites.

Elector is also a very easy, efficient, and non-greasy way to treat scaly leg mites in one treatment of soaking the legs and feet if you ever have that issue crop up.

 

[Eggcessive]

Good to know about the Elector PSP. Thanks. I had just read the “general instructions” here and thought it was not for spraying on the birds:
https://www.cvear.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/ELECTOR-PSP-label.pdf

Here she recommends use of chickens and the coop per her vet:
https://the-chicken-chick.com/poultry-lice-and-mites-identification/

 

[suzychappstick]

Sadly, she did not make it. Just stopped eating and wouldn't swallow the food and water I was giving her. But I wanted to thank you for all your help, I learned a lot of new information.