electric fences and ground rods

Thanks for the info! I had posted the same question on another thread. Bear Paw Farm suggested a cut-out switch. You can run both strands of wire(4" & 18") at the same time and turn off the lower wire(4") when snow threatens.
 
Thanks for the advice.
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Grounding is half your fence. Remember that. It's half your fence. The majority of all electric fence problems stem from improper grounding.

If your earth is particularly hard or rocky, try burying the rods at an angle, getting the buried ends as deep as you can.

Also...

Rebar doesn't count -- it rusts, which affects conducivity.. And it's iron which isn't as conducive as a real copper or galvanized rod anyway.. Plus, unless you're using iron wire, you'll have corrosion issues from the metal mismatch. And unless you're using really long rebar and burying it deep enough to be in moist earth all the time, your fence will be spotty when the ground dries out.

T-posts don't count -- they're painted, for pete's sake. Maybe that's not much of an insulator, but you don't want any insulation on something that's meant to carry current. Not to mention, most are only buried maybe 18", which is way too shallow for a ground system..

As others have mentioned, a good way to bury a ground rod is to slowly work it into the ground, pouring water intermittantly as you go.. I pounded mine in, because I'd never heard of doing it the better, easier way...don't be like me. Pounding ground rods is NO FUN at all.

But do yourself a favor and find a way to get them in the ground. You won't regret it.
 
I have a galvanized rod. Works real good. My fence is usually around 6000-8000 volts. Another thing get a large enough power supply.
 
i think this is the best way to set up an electric fence by far - use the fence as a ground as well as a grounding rod. Much more effective than just using the rod itself. I think I'm going to add an LED light on the side of my fence so I know when it's energized and the kids do too...
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