*emergency* not sure how to get incubator temperatures down!

[XxPandaxX]

Ahh

I can help you understand the physics of it.  Say you are outside on a hot summer day and the temperature is 80 degrees under the porch roof.  Then you step out in the sun, and feel a lot hotter.  You are absorbing the heat and light from the sun.  The eggs will do the same when they are directly under a heat source.  Using a traditional bulb allows the light out 3/4 of the sphere, where a reflector bulb will focus its heat and light on a much smaller area.  The "average" temperature may be okay, but some eggs will be hot and some will be cold.

The best incubator designs don't need a fan, but a fan makes it much easier to design a home made incubator.  The first thing to watch for is flammable objects, any heat source can burn combustible materials including egg cartons, or melt plastics and emit toxic fumes.  So be sure that the heat source is as far from flammables as possible.  Next is to be sure you have air circulation.  A little throughout incubation is necessary.  Be sure to use a light bulb appropriately sized for the volume of space, unless the heat source is ALWAYS on it isn't too small, and if it's too big it will be hard to keep the temperature consistent.  Just like a furnace, if it runs almost all the time the room temp stays more even than if it cycles on and off. 

And of course be cautious with electrical circuits, including extension cords.  Never interrupt the neutral (white) wire (wide pin) of a circuit.  Place your thermostat or switch in the narrow, hot, black wire side of the circuit.

If you use a water tray for a humidifier, be sure it can't splash on a hot bulb or come in contact with wiring.

I made my first incubator out of a ceramic bulb holder and salvaged shower pan top and bottom.  It wasn't great, but it worked to hatch eggs.

okay I get what you're saying with the whole heat thing. So basically I need to get a better bulb or I'll just keep having the inconsistency in heat

 

[WalnutHill]

I wouldn't give up on these quite yet. And I agree that your range of 99-103 should give good results.

Don't worry about momentary temperatures, and don't adjust the incubator (if you have a dimmer switch or thermostat) for at least a half an hour after closing it. Short duration fluctuations won't hurt a thing (as long as you don't go to extremes, like in an unheated garage in winter, or in a basement).

Be sure that your thermometer is reading temps at the top of the eggs, and that your thermostat is set so that it isn't near the door if possible, and is halfway between the heat source and the farthest corner of the incubator.

The eggs may be more consistent in temperature with a fan if you just put them on a wire baker's cooling rack. That will let air circulate below them and won't trap heat like the cartons will. Or if you want to use the cartons, cut off the bottoms of each egg cup, leaving just the sides of the cups.

 

[XxPandaxX]

I wouldn't give up on these quite yet.  And I agree that your range of 99-103 should give good results.

Don't worry about momentary temperatures, and don't adjust the incubator (if you have a dimmer switch or thermostat) for at least a half an hour after closing it.  Short duration fluctuations won't hurt a thing (as long as you don't go to extremes, like in an unheated garage in winter, or in a basement).

Be sure that your thermometer is reading temps at the top of the eggs, and that your thermostat is set so that it isn't near the door if possible, and is halfway between the heat source and the farthest corner of the incubator.

The eggs may be more consistent in temperature with a fan if you just put them on a wire baker's cooling rack.  That will let air circulate below them and won't trap heat like the cartons will.  Or if you want to use the cartons, cut off the bottoms of each egg cup, leaving just the sides of the cups.

Sounds good, I'll keep em'. Also: 99-103 is the preferred range, but if it is in say 90-99 is that going to kill the embryo

 

[WalnutHill]

If kept below 98 for more than an hour or so, so that the eggs cool down to that temp, you risk defects or death. 90 will be fatal. 98 can cause late hatch, over 101 early hatch. Early hatch by up to a day is preferred to a late hatch.

A broody hen does not sit on her eggs 24x7. She is actually warmer than 103 but she moves the eggs around, and often broods more eggs than she can cover with her body, and does get up to eat and drink. So small and short term temperature variations are perfectly normal but keep it in range as much as possible.

 

[XxPandaxX]

If kept below 98 for more than an hour or so, so that the eggs cool down to that temp, you risk defects or death.  90 will be fatal.  98 can cause late hatch, over 101 early hatch.  Early hatch by up to a day is preferred to a late hatch.

A broody hen does not sit on her eggs 24x7.  She is actually warmer than 103 but she moves the eggs around, and often broods more eggs than she can cover with her body, and does get up to eat and drink.  So small and short term temperature variations are perfectly normal but keep it in range as much as possible.

Alright , understood! I'll try my best and update when I can.

 

[WalnutHill]

I am basing my responses on turkey eggs, which take 28 days to hatch and can have more humidity related hatch issues. The temperatures are the same, though.

I've heard good things about dry incubation but I can tell you it isn't working well for my turkeys. I've had to intervene on way too many hatches since I started trying incubation at ambient humidity (about 25% now) with a 50% increase at lockdown. Even increasing more at lockdown isn't helping, the membranes are getting too rubbery. I was getting better hatch rates keeping humidity up at 50% and raising to 75% at hatch.

Still, I've hatched about 40 turkeys this year from two hens and a tom, and have 10 more ready to go in unless someone buys them. I'm in Michigan too if you want to try turkeys.

 

[XxPandaxX]

I am basing my responses on turkey eggs, which take 28 days to hatch and can have more humidity related hatch issues.  The temperatures are the same, though. 


I've heard good things about dry incubation but I can tell you it isn't working well for my turkeys.  I've had to intervene on way too many hatches since I started trying incubation at ambient humidity (about 25% now) with a 50% increase at lockdown.  Even increasing more at lockdown isn't helping, the membranes are getting too rubbery.  I was getting better hatch rates keeping humidity up at 50% and raising to 75% at hatch.

Still, I've hatched about 40 turkeys this year from two hens and a tom, and have 10 more ready to go in unless someone buys them.  I'm in Michigan too if you want to try turkeys. 

This is my first time trying dry incubation, out of a few egg incubation and I've hatched one successful chick LOL. It certainly is fun though, and rewarding. For dry incubation, I read to keep the eggs above 25% humidity. I've been placing the occasional rag in there to make sure it stays up. What I'm more worried about is lockdown... If I get there.

I've hardly thought about turkeys! Once I get the space I think I'll definitely try them though. What's a good beginners breed?

 

[WalnutHill]

Depends on your goals. For a really nice table turkey, Bourbon Red or Narragansett. Both can fly and toms weigh about 25 lbs when mature. Young turkeys, about 7-8 months old, are delicious. If you feed them treats they will follow you around. Or you can often find eggs from "mutt" turkeys, they grow into randomly colored birds but are just as friendly and curious.


If you want a smaller turkey that forages well, Royal Palm are very attractive. The toms run about 16 lbs when mature. They fly very well so you need to clip wings or have high fences. They aren't as meaty as some others.

Broad Breasted Bronze and Broad Breasted white are cheap from the hatcheries but aren't good for keeping more than about 5 months. They are designed to be eaten when young. They won't reproduce in your backyard, have lots of issues with their hips, legs, and hearts, and are just not well suited for free ranging.