Fed up with the freeloaders!

Georgiahome622

Songster
6 Years
Jan 15, 2018
63
45
121
North Florida
Please help me figure this out!

I have 13 hens. 10 are 2 years and 9 months, 3 are about 18 months. I was feeding them Purina layer crumbles, and then switched 3-4 months ago to Kalmbach 16% protein, then upped to 17% protein last month. I have quit giving all treats except for a bit of Kalmbach Henhouse Reserve and occasionally some greens. They have a large coop and run, plenty of space. They have supplementary oyster shell available at all times next to their waterers. Feeders and waterers are in separate ends of their run so everyone has a chance to eat.

For most of the last year, egg production has been off. I have made excuses:

Winter - because of the cold/short days. maybe 2-4 eggs daily

Spring - things picked up. Most days around 6 eggs, I got 10 eggs once or twice.

Summer - it really was a hot one (they had a large fan and electrolytes, their coop is shaded). 2-3 eggs per day and with SUPER thin shells, which were often broken in the boxes. Clearly some of the egg was eaten, but not like I would think if egg eating was a big problem.

Late summer - 4 of them exhibited signs of illness: droopy, pale combs, low appetite, diarrhea, sitting to themselves hunched up. I treated with Corrid for 10-12 days and did a deep clean in their coop and run. Everything raked out, DE in the empty boxes and coops, with a fresh layer of pine shavings on top. Their appearance improved significantly, but the combs were droopy for a little while. All appearances are back to normal. Egg production still at 2-3 per day, but shell quality is much improved.

Early Fall - egg production is incredibly low, even lower than before. Some days I get no eggs at all. 1-2 usually, sometimes 3. There are no broken eggs, no signs of yolk in the shavings. 2-3 are clearly molting, the others aren't. I thought maybe I should try treating with Backyard Chickens Zyfend A. They had it for around 10 days, with no change whatsoever.

Yesterday, I got one egg with a thin shell which cracked when I picked it up. The day before I got NO eggs. The day before that there were 2.

What am I missing? I think I should be getting at a minimum 6/day from 13 hens, right?

Thanks for anything you can add.

Georgia
 
Have you checked them for mites or lice, at night with a flashlight? Had a fecal test run at your veterinarian's? Treating 'blind' for a parasite that might not be the problem, while not knowing what's actually there, not helpful.
Hens need 14 to 16 hours of light for egg production, so do you have a light on out there 3am to 8am, on a timer?
The reason commercial 'egg farms' remove birds by 18 months of age, is because the bird's first laying year is their best, and egg production decreases every year after that first year. You can look up how to determine if each bird is actively laying eggs or not, there are physical signs.
Diet: many of us feed a 20% protein feed, with separate oyster shell. Lower protein, higher calcium layer diets were developed for those young high producing birds in confinement, who eat nothing else. Not what my mixed flock of larger birds will do best on.
My current flock has birds young, old, and middle aged. Egg production, not so great, but improving since I set that light 3am to 8am, and since my few pullets are coming into lay.
Best egg production? Eliminate birds older than two years, at least, and get chicks every spring, so your flock is always young. I fell like my 'old ladies' can have a retirement home, so don't do that here.
Mary
 
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I agree with what everyone has said. I feed 20% flock maker (kalmbach), with oyster shell on the side. My old ladies get to stay and live out their lives, but I add chicks (sometimes on a couple) every Spring to ensure I have eggs through the winter. Without supplemental light, most hens are going to take a break through the winter and not pick back up till January or so. I also agree that a bug check may be in order, along with a fecal
 
Have you checked them for mites or lice, at night with a flashlight? Had a fecal test run at your veterinarian's? Treating 'blind' for a parasite that might not be the problem, while not knowing what's actually there, not helpful.
Hens need 14 to 16 hours of light for egg production, so do you have a light on out there 3am to 8am, on a timer?
The reason commercial 'egg farms' remove birds by a8 months of age, is because the bird's first laying year is their best, and egg production decreases every year after that first year. You can look up how to determine if each bird is actively laying eggs or not, there are physical signs.
Diet: many of us feed a 20% protein feed, with separate oyster shell. Lower protein, higher calcium layer diets were developed for those young high producing birds in confinement, who eat nothing else. Not what my mixed flock of larger birds will do best on.
My current flock has birds young, old, and middle aged. Egg production, not so great, but improving since I set that light 3am to 8am, and since my few pullets are coming into lay.
Best egg production? Eliminate birds older than two years, at least, and get chicks every spring, so your flock is always young. I fell like my 'old ladies' can have a retirement home, so don't do that here.
Mary
X2.
 
I don't know about your summer and the lack of eggs, but seeing a few molting means all hens of that age are likely coming into or out of molt. This is the time of year when most chickens over a year will take a 3 month break from laying. These birds will likely lay again in the spring. If you don't want to feed birds not actively laying then plan to cull around 18 months, and keep replenishing the flock.
 

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