Feeding with mealworms as the only protein source

My understanding is that historically about 40% losses were common in winter. Then science realized it was a vitamin D deficiency and was able to synthesize that and get it into chicken feed.

Supposedly the chicken is the most-undestood and most-studied creature in the world (partly for lack of ethical standards at the time). There is a lot of science in commercial chicken chow.

You could look into organic puppy or cat food perhaps? For protein supplementation.
 
My understanding is that historically about 40% losses were common in winter. Then science realized it was a vitamin D deficiency and was able to synthesize that and get it into chicken feed.

Supposedly the chicken is the most-undestood and most-studied creature in the world (partly for lack of ethical standards at the time). There is a lot of science in commercial chicken chow.

You could look into organic puppy or cat food perhaps? For protein supplementation.
That's very interesting, I'll do some research on that. Thanks for bringing it up!
 
@U_Stormcrow has some AMAZING informative posts regarding nutrition in chickens, and balanced diets.

I would spend 100 years quoting if I quoted all of them, but here are a few:


I have great respect for @GC-Raptor 's experience, but will differ on this issue. You will find me in the camp of @JacinLarkwell and @Folly's place on this subject. Particularly as you are choosing a low protein layer feed as their complete feed.

Some "thumb rules" and quick approximations since I don't know what scratch brand you are using. Together with some broad averages, for purpose of illustration.

An average hen, under average conditions, is estimated to eat an average of 1/4# of feed daily. You have four birds, so that's 1#, or 16 oz total, each day. The "thumb rule" for treats is not to exceed 10% of diet, by weight, daily. It exists not because its correct for every circumstance, but because its conservative enough to prevent the majority of harms, in the majority of circumstances - that is, its "good enough".

Layena Crumbles (Pellets are substantially identical) have a nutrition profile of 16% Protein, 6.5% Fiber, 2.5% fat, 4% +/- Calcium, .7% Lysine, .3% Methionine.

For reference, UGA suggests target figures of 16-18%, 3-4%, 4%, .8%, .4%. You can find similar figures from NRCS/USDA and others. Layena begins as a borderline feed (that's *normal* for layer rations, cost is a big component of layer feed design).

Purina's "Scratch Mix" offers a nutrition guarantee of 8% protein, 4.5% fiber, 1.5% fat, .1% calcium and says nothing about amino acids (nor could they, as the ingredients vary - "Freshly-ground North American grains")

You are offering 4-5 oz of scratch daily, plus some negligible and nutritionally uncertain (and seasonal) free range time. That's a great unknowable I'll disregard.

If the chickens substitute scratch for complete feed (sticking with the 1/4# total per day), 25% of their daily ration is Scratch! ENd result? 14% Protein (too low), 4.5% fiber (tolerable), 2.25% fat (too low). Calcium is tolerable. We can guess at the aminos if we have to, based on the likely grains included (cracked corn, milo, red millet, sunflower seeds) in the scratch - could be worse, not exceptional. If chickens, in accordance with pecking order, only pick favorites out of the scratch, the likelihood of nutritional problems grows accordingly.

If the birds add the scratch to a normal ration, their caloric intake goes up (and your total feed costs with it), but no benefit (beyond their entertainment, and your ability to encourage them to dig different areas of the yard) comes of it. The scratch isn't improving anything - and (fingers crossed) their brief free range time is compensating.

I prefer a little more certainty, and I say that as one who free ranges my entire flock daily, dusk to dawn.
Here's Feedipedia on Corn. Click on the "Nutritional Aspects" tab for a good survey. You need to know how to read the nutritional tables, or it can be deceptive, but they are next tab over.

it has its uses - protein isn't the whole story, making feed involves balancing, LOTS of balancing.
 
My understanding is that historically about 40% losses were common in winter. Then science realized it was a vitamin D deficiency and was able to synthesize that and get it into chicken feed.
I haven't read too deeply into this yet but found some interesting studies on insect farms under artificial light:

https://www.nature.com/articles/s41598-018-29232-w

https://zoologyweblog.blogspot.com/2018/09/ultraviolet-exposure-of-insects-and.html

https://21bites.com/blogs/blog/vitamin-d-in-edible-insects
 
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Once my chickens hit 2 yrs old they are 100% free range, not allowed in the run. I still have them a roost and nest box. I pick 15-20 eggs weekly off of the 8 free rangers rite now. I do not feed them anything. Have a few that are over 5 yrs old. Save your money & let nature take its course.

every year i rotate out. I buy or incubate at least 3 times a yr.. keep 15-20 in a large 25x25 run, they free range Saturday & sunday all day

10-15 is my normal for free range but i had a hawk & owl have a field day couple weeks ago.
 
Once my chickens hit 2 yrs old they are 100% free range, not allowed in the run. I still have them a roost and nest box. I pick 15-20 eggs weekly off of the 8 free rangers rite now. I do not feed them anything. Have a few that are over 5 yrs old. Save your money & let nature take its course.

every year i rotate out. I buy or incubate at least 3 times a yr.. keep 15-20 in a large 25x25 run, they free range Saturday & sunday all day

10-15 is my normal for free range but i had a hawk & owl have a field day couple weeks ago.
I love that you don't have to feed them at all, that is ideal.
 
i do feed My 15-20 that i have in a pen a 20% all flock and side of oyster shells. As i also have 5 ducks, but 100 lb of feed last me now about a month to month & half. I used to go thru over 150 lbs a month. At 20$ a bag, and for how many eggs i was getting it wasnt worth it. I dont rely on them at all so it was a no brainer to let these free range
 
It sounds like we've bred our chickens into a problem then :(
Not necessarily.

People found the right blend of foods for chickens to do well, and selected the right chickens to do well with that food. As long as you use the chickens and the food that were selected to work well together, they do fine.

There are still places in the world where chickens have to roam around and find their own food. I've read that those chickens do not produce many eggs or much meat. I've also read that they become much more productive if you provide safe housing and modern chicken food-- so even chickens that CAN survive on less will do better if you provide better feed.
 

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