Fence posts ??? How far apart

Has anyone ever used old chain link fencing for the run? I plan on using 4X4 post set at 8 ft. with 2X6 bottom board and 2X4's up to the 6 foot height. Then chicken wire 4 ft on the bottom and then the chain link over the chicken wire. I also plan to use 2X4 welded fence on the top of the run to keep out hawks, coons and skunks. I plan on using rabbit wire at the base out about 20" to prevent digging under the bottom. Run will be 10X16 feet and coop is planned to be 10X8 with metal roof. Floor will be 2X6 base nailed to the 4X4 corner posts and shaving fill for the inside floor, walls will be old salvaged barn lumber with salvaged storm windows and door for light with old tin roof. We are getting 12 hens and 1 roo or at least that what we planned. I am retiring and relocating at or near the end of the year and we are working on our site as we can.
 
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Yup, I've done that. Have you ever worked with chainlink? It is a nuisance. But it can be done. The key is that you have to stretch the chainlink SUPER TIGHT and have it STAY that way. You need your horizontal elements of the fence to be very solidly attached to the posts, because you will be exerting quite a lot of force. I recommend using a comealong and making/borrowing/renting a chainlink puller (a bar that hooks onto the meshes to evenly strain the whole height of the fence material, that you then hook the comealong to).

IMO the most effective thing is to insert the stretcher bar into one end of the chainlink and attach it to its run post, then strain that side's worth of chainlink, insert another stretcher bar at the corner post, and use yer favorite hardware to attach that second stretcher *real firmly* to that corner post. You can then release the comealong, move the puller down the length of fencing, and do the next side. Lather rinse repeat. Make sure to get the chainlink material all shook out correctly so it lies flat and without kinks or gaps. When it is all installed, you will need to attach the top and bottom *securely* to the top and bottom horizontal boards of the fence, using heavy fence staples or whatever, every 2nd or 3rd mesh to prevent predators from being able to pry it out and either slip behind or distort the chainlink to make a hole.

It is, quite frankly, about 10x the work of installing normal welded wire mesh. However if you do it right -- VERY TIGHTLY strained, and constructed so it stays that way -- it does make a good strong fence, and if you have some good-condition heavy-gauge used chainlink lying around, the price appeal can be considerable
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If you install the chainlink loosely, though, predators can fairly easily just pry a hole in it, like making a hole in a knit sweater, and walk through.

Floor will be 2X6 base nailed to the 4X4 corner posts

Make sure it is raised up enough that there is at least a foot of open space underneath the coop, otherwise it encourages rodents.

All the rest of your plans sound real good to me, sounds like it should make a really nice coop!
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Good lcuk, have fun,

Pat​
 
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AWWW thanks Guys. been a blast......We really have had fun with the whole deal. I am now thinking where I can run off the coop to expand. My church members are buying every egg the girls can put out. LOL. ,,
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That is nicely done! I am itching to get started on mine. I plan to use yours as a template.

ditto
 
I put mine 6 feet apart. Here is a way to keep predators out... The wire on the walls of the coop is 1/4 inch hardware wire, then I dug inside along the ground at the walls 1 1/2 feet down and 2 feet in, put the wire from the walls down and in, then added road base on the wire packed it down with a little water, put dirt over that. Any thing that tries to burrow in cannot get through.
 
Our run is 24x24, and we used 4x4 post's on 8 ft centers. For fencing, we used 6 ft high of 2 inch by 4 inch 14 gauge goat fence. over 3 ft tall 1/2 welded wire.
 

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