Fermenting Feed for Meat Birds

[Wax Myrtle]

I'm in the minority on this but....  I just do a single container and scoop some up and press it against the side to kind-of drain it.  That way I get ALL LAYERS and the fertrel and powdery stuff gets mixed right in.  Then when I add new to the bucket, I stir it altogether.  I think "Pigeon" does his that way too.  I don't even use a slotted or screened spoon/scoop...just a regular solid one,  Scooping all the way to the bottom and lifting up then smashing it against the side of the container above the liquid.

Works for me!

Mine is done almost this same way -one bucket, I use and replace about 25% daily. I do use a strainer, tho, as I seem to get a better ferment with a much sloppier mix. And the slop is much easier for me to stir than a paste. I have about an hour of "morning routine," so I set the ff to drain first thing after starting coffee (I have my priorities, after all ) and by the time I've finished all the morning stuff, the feed has drained to a thick, dryish paste. I dump that in the feeder, add warmish water to the bucket, stir, then add a measure of dry feed, stir and repeat the next day.

 

[aoxa]

We use a shovel and more of an up and down w/ a twist motion, but we only ferment grains.

Good idea on the shovel. Didn't think of that

I broke a long stir stick in the tub and had to reach in and fish it out.. My arms were dirty from doing this, so I just finished stirring with an arm.. Up to my shoulder blade.. It was FREEZING.

 

[Missa Chickabee]

BeeKissed on Free-Ranging:

It depends on your area and your resources. It really takes the proper dogs living in the range area to prevent such a thing...you need good, reliable dog(s) on their own free range(mine is on an electric confinement system). Not many foxes will brave a dog's territory in broad daylight to snatch a chicken..too risky and there are far easier game to be had. A good dog is alert, ranging, marking territory and is a real presence at night. Fat, overfed house dogs going out in the daytime to do their business just won't cut it.

Having areas of duck and cover for your chickens is also key to successful free range...these birds will always be on alert and need places to retreat to in a hurry if they are a distance from the coop.

Having breeds of chickens known for good foraging skills and survival on range is also key....Buff Orpingtons? Silkies? Not good choices. Ever. Too slow, too docile, too pet like. You need breeds that are naturally flighty and jumpy to any threats of danger. If you are free ranging a flock of pet Orps or other fat and docile breeds, you are just opening a buffet and ringing the dinner bell. Chicken breeds that flock well are important also....loners get picked off and there is safety in numbers. As with all animals that exist in flocks

A good, alert rooster is also helpful but a hen will take over that responsibility in the absence of a rooster and will call an alarm at signs of danger. The tuned in free ranging flock will instantly run to that call from wherever they may be.

Chickens that are handled a lot by humans and are used to being stooped over all the time and will immediately squat when this happens are also like offering free dinners to the predators. You can't condition chickens to freeze and squat for your attentions and not expect them to do the same over any shadow that approaches from above. Any chicken that can be easily caught by a human in the daytime is more readily so by any predator in the area.

Starting out chicks on range at 2 wks along with the experienced flock heightens their survival skills...those kept in the house until they are 4 months old are sitting ducks. That's like putting a house dog out in the Alaskan wilderness and expecting them to adapt quickly enough to survive the wild.

If you live in a neighborhood where there are many stray dogs, a perimeter fence around your property is essential...even if you can only fence in an acre or two, that is the average ranging area of a free range flock. This slows predators down a bit and requires some work to get under, over or around...this gives your dogs time to sound an alarm or confront the predator and gives your flock time to retreat to the coop.

Saying that people who have these systems in place, who do the work and plan for these events, and who develop their flocks to be predator wary are just "lucky" is like saying people who train for 4 years for the Olympics and win are just "lucky". It takes work, planning and refining to have a successful free range experience for your flock and those who don't put in the wrench time on such a system are those who claim it cannot be done~ because they did it with a faulty system and didn't work to make it better.

BK, I can't thank you enough for this input above. Once again, empirical evidence aligns with my 'gut feelings' as i've never felt the inner freedom to let my (yes) my dreaded BO's free-range. But much thanks to you about 'trusting' as well as the good sense above.....and.......DARN! Can't remember if it was DragonLady or Gargoyle who suggested 50# clear filament run overhead. (MANY THANKS FOR THIS!) Now my flock has a large run with this stuff run over the top. Twice since putting this up (what a snap) I have watched hawks do a U-turn or side detour (and that's just when I was out there) . It was the junior bald-headed eagle that was scouting them that really got my attention in the first place. Huge things they are.

So here's why I won't free-range this flock:

1. No dog now.

2. Super-thick predator population...both ground and sky.

3. Buff Orpingtons (but really pot-bellied-pig-pets-with-feathers)

Would just LOVE to free-range but until those things you mentioned are in place and I have a real free-ranging flock, it justa-aint-a-gonna-be-happenin'. BTW, I got the fishing line cheap-cheap at Wally-World.

In the spring will be creating at least one parallel run to allow the other to recup its grass after the ravaging's done. Maybe even plant something more nutritious in the other (suggestions?)

Here they are at the back corner of the run foraging through some leaves we mulched with the lawn mower and threw in there. It's their daytime fav spot to be right now. If you look closely you can see the fishing line that's been run above them. Not so visible to us but the hawks can see it well and so can the people in the planes that fly over. The clear stuff creates a light reflection. As I was told...'No hawk wants to tangle its wings in that". This probably wouldn't stop a fox or such but they are rare in the daytime and the birds are in the fort-knox-coop at dusk.

I think Boaz and the White Sisters would be alright free-ranged.

Oh....and uh....Boaz.....well, he asked me to put a bit better shot of himself in here, too. The vanity, O the vanity. (He's a bit of a dufus-roo, but don't tell him that)

 

[Miss Lydia]

BeeKissed on Free-Ranging:

It depends on your area and your resources. It really takes the proper dogs living in the range area to prevent such a thing...you need good, reliable dog(s) on their own free range(mine is on an electric confinement system). Not many foxes will brave a dog's territory in broad daylight to snatch a chicken..too risky and there are far easier game to be had. A good dog is alert, ranging, marking territory and is a real presence at night. Fat, overfed house dogs going out in the daytime to do their business just won't cut it.

Having areas of duck and cover for your chickens is also key to successful free range...these birds will always be on alert and need places to retreat to in a hurry if they are a distance from the coop.

Having breeds of chickens known for good foraging skills and survival on range is also key....Buff Orpingtons? Silkies? Not good choices. Ever. Too slow, too docile, too pet like. You need breeds that are naturally flighty and jumpy to any threats of danger. If you are free ranging a flock of pet Orps or other fat and docile breeds, you are just opening a buffet and ringing the dinner bell. Chicken breeds that flock well are important also....loners get picked off and there is safety in numbers. As with all animals that exist in flocks

A good, alert rooster is also helpful but a hen will take over that responsibility in the absence of a rooster and will call an alarm at signs of danger. The tuned in free ranging flock will instantly run to that call from wherever they may be.

Chickens that are handled a lot by humans and are used to being stooped over all the time and will immediately squat when this happens are also like offering free dinners to the predators. You can't condition chickens to freeze and squat for your attentions and not expect them to do the same over any shadow that approaches from above. Any chicken that can be easily caught by a human in the daytime is more readily so by any predator in the area.

Starting out chicks on range at 2 wks along with the experienced flock heightens their survival skills...those kept in the house until they are 4 months old are sitting ducks. That's like putting a house dog out in the Alaskan wilderness and expecting them to adapt quickly enough to survive the wild.

If you live in a neighborhood where there are many stray dogs, a perimeter fence around your property is essential...even if you can only fence in an acre or two, that is the average ranging area of a free range flock. This slows predators down a bit and requires some work to get under, over or around...this gives your dogs time to sound an alarm or confront the predator and gives your flock time to retreat to the coop.

Saying that people who have these systems in place, who do the work and plan for these events, and who develop their flocks to be predator wary are just "lucky" is like saying people who train for 4 years for the Olympics and win are just "lucky". It takes work, planning and refining to have a successful free range experience for your flock and those who don't put in the wrench time on such a system are those who claim it cannot be done~ because they did it with a faulty system and didn't work to make it better.

BK, I can't thank you enough for this input above. Once again, empirical evidence aligns with my 'gut feelings' as i've never felt the inner freedom to let my (yes) my dreaded BO's free-range. But much thanks to you about 'trusting' as well as the good sense above.....and.......DARN! Can't remember if it was DragonLady or Gargoyle who suggested 50# clear filament run overhead. (MANY THANKS FOR THIS!) Now my flock has a large run with this stuff run over the top. Twice since putting this up (what a snap) I have watched hawks do a U-turn or side detour (and that's just when I was out there) . It was the junior bald-headed eagle that was scouting them that really got my attention in the first place. Huge things they are.

So here's why I won't free-range this flock:

1. No dog now.

2. Super-thick predator population...both ground and sky.

3. Buff Orpingtons (but really pot-bellied-pig-pets-with-feathers)

Would just LOVE to free-range but until those things you mentioned are in place and I have a real free-ranging flock, it justa-aint-a-gonna-be-happenin'. BTW, I got the fishing line cheap-cheap at Wally-World.

In the spring will be creating at least one parallel run to allow the other to recup its grass after the ravaging's done. Maybe even plant something more nutritious in the other (suggestions?)

Here they are at the back corner of the run foraging through some leaves we mulched with the lawn mower and threw in there. It's their daytime fav spot to be right now. If you look closely you can see the fishing line that's been run above them. Not so visible to us but the hawks can see it well and so can the people in the planes that fly over. The clear stuff creates a light reflection. As I was told...'No hawk wants to tangle its wings in that". This probably wouldn't stop a fox or such but they are rare in the daytime and the birds are in the fort-knox-coop at dusk.

I think Boaz and the White Sisters would be alright free-ranged.

Oh....and uh....Boaz.....well, he asked me to put a bit better shot of himself in here, too. The vanity, O the vanity. (He's a bit of a dufus-roo, but don't tell him that)

I love the lil piggy, and the roo is a nice handsome boy too.

 

[Missa Chickabee]

I'm in the minority on this but.... I just do a single container and scoop some up and press it against the side to kind-of drain it. That way I get ALL LAYERS and the fertrel and powdery stuff gets mixed right in. Then when I add new to the bucket, I stir it altogether. I think "Pigeon" does his that way too. I don't even use a slotted or screened spoon/scoop...just a regular solid one, Scooping all the way to the bottom and lifting up then smashing it against the side of the container above the liquid.

Works for me!

mm-hmm. Going to start doing it this way today and will compare to see how this fares with the two bucket way. Will also be moving everything toward the basement back door where there is an outdoor exit and a sink close by. Simplify, simplify, simplify. The ferment likes the heat in the pantry off the laundry room down there but from back there it's a long haul to the door. This basement is my mud room til (or if) we can afford to build that on. Thanks, Leah's Mom.

 

[Jeanette56]

You didn't have to shout and I did not see your description until this post. Couldn't read the label on the photo of the bottle even though I tried.
I'm glad to see that there is a Organic Vinegar out there that is free of additives. My only complaint is that it looks like it comes in a plastic bottle but then so does Braggs if you buy the gallon size.

You didn't read the description of it I added:
Apple Cider Vinegar - Product Information
Made from organic apples.
Balances your acid-alkaline levels.
Certified-Organic, Kosher, Unfiltered, and Non-Pasteurized...
Omega's Certified-Organic Apple Cider Vinegar is made the "old fashioned" way, by allowing the natural fermentation process to occur to full-strength (5% acidity), without chemicals, additives, preservatives or water.
Natural sediment is the true sign of raw, unfiltered vinegar, and naturally contains pectin, trace minerals, beneficial bacteria and enzymes making it one of the best Apple Cider Vinegars around.

 

[aoxa]

You didn't have to shout and I did not see your description until this post. Couldn't read the label on the photo of the bottle even though I tried.
I'm glad to see that there is a Organic Vinegar out there that is free of additives. My only complaint is that it looks like it comes in a plastic bottle but then so does Braggs if you buy the gallon size.

Wasn't trying to shout. I just wanted to point out the important part, and chose to enlarge the font

I often skim through as well. Unfortunately you can't read body language. I was in no way offended, or trying to offend you.

Also the bottle.. Found the answer on their site:

Why the Opaque Bottle? If you can see the oil in a bottle, so can light. Light causes the most damage to unrefined oil on the retail shelf. Proper packaging is, therefore, imperative. Our Opaque Protective Packaging protects the integrity of the EFAs inside. We use an inert gas (the gas does not react with oil), to create an oxygen-free environment during the manufacturing and bottling process.

and http://www.omeganutrition.com/images/images/Web_Plastics.pdf

Glass bottles do not offer complete protection
from the transmission of light and as such are
not acceptable containers for oil—even brown
glass offers insufficient protection. Metal containers do block out light, but are not recommended
as the metal itself leads to the breakdown of oil.
Extensive research into the various kinds of
plastics helped us find the right solution to our
packaging questions. We choose special opaque
containers made of premium food-grade highdensity polyethylene (HDPE) that offer complete
exclusion of light, as well as being 100% nonreactive with oil. In addition, each bottle is
flushed with inert gas during bottling to create
an oxygen-free environment. Omega Nutrition
firmly believes in the choice of opaque HDPE
plastic as the positive packaging solution to best
protect the essential nutrients of unrefined oils

Seems they have the answer for everything!

 

[Beekissed]

My FF is going inside tomorrow..it's been cooking for 2 days now and no good smells or bubbles going on. No good film of enzymes..nothing. Here's a pic of my FF taken today...

 

[smyers32]

hmmm, that's pretty much what mine always looks like, is that bad?

 

[Miss Lydia]

Mine looks good has the film over it but they aren't eating much of it. Suppose to warm up over the next couple of days hopefully I can move it back outside then hopefully they will eat it,. I did move mine close to the wood stove too.